Electric over Hydraulic question??
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MtnViewRanch
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Look for your power beyond source, there is no reason to get a 2nd remote just to get fluid to the loader. Do some research for hydraulic sources on your tractor. Ask for the installation instructions for the loader, they may very well show exactly where and what you need to do.
Good luck.
Good luck.
the old grind
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It paid off for me to buy a 'used' loader for my JD 5210. $3k with j-stick and side-rails for a much larger model Deere. Rails for my model: ~$1200 in hand. Another $500 to upgrade (29.50") 6.50 x 16, 8 pr front R-1s to (36") 11.00 x 16, 10 prs and 8 x 16 rims. .. (with '1/4" offset' and no spindle rubs)
I used the Deere's remotes and j-stick, so have the similar Allied bits left over, but they'd have worked. btw, tractor is a '99 and IMO the JD j-stick and remotes were never used. Bucket will hang for a week at ~waist high before any droop is apparent. ("honest", and totally bragging...) Another $250 at most for new lines/fitting to loader arms, and I'm probably short of $5K with nothing much tougher than routine tractor maintenance to hook 'er up.
Anyway, I'm sure I'm not the only one here who would hate to see a member shell out top dollar if we could help in any way and perhaps save half the $$. Won't take you long to figure out that you came to the right place for that.
BTW most guys could haul a loader with gear on hand if not a LUT such as ours. Bet you can beat $20-30/mile.
I used the Deere's remotes and j-stick, so have the similar Allied bits left over, but they'd have worked. btw, tractor is a '99 and IMO the JD j-stick and remotes were never used. Bucket will hang for a week at ~waist high before any droop is apparent. ("honest", and totally bragging...) Another $250 at most for new lines/fitting to loader arms, and I'm probably short of $5K with nothing much tougher than routine tractor maintenance to hook 'er up.
Anyway, I'm sure I'm not the only one here who would hate to see a member shell out top dollar if we could help in any way and perhaps save half the $$. Won't take you long to figure out that you came to the right place for that.
BTW most guys could haul a loader with gear on hand if not a LUT such as ours. Bet you can beat $20-30/mile.
LD1
Epic Contributor
Agree, get an OEM install manual. Foolish IMO to waste a set of remotes feeding a loader.
OEM probably had a manifold block somewhere that could be added. It would have most likely pulled supply before feeding 3ph, then used PB off the loader valve to feed the downstream 3ph
OEM probably had a manifold block somewhere that could be added. It would have most likely pulled supply before feeding 3ph, then used PB off the loader valve to feed the downstream 3ph