Electric tractor

   / Electric tractor #21  
I never thought you were trying any of this. From your question, I thought maybe you were involved in the electric forklift field. I was a Field service tech/foreman/warehouse maintenance manager for 22 years before opening my shop. This field isn't too large, thought maybe we may have crossed paths somewhere.
 
   / Electric tractor #22  
Hey Wayne , yes I am involved in the lift truck field, we may have crossed paths at some time.
 
   / Electric tractor #24  
Sorry I had to answer the phone,,,,,I work for the Crown dealership in Wilkes-Barre was a field tech for a few years, did some time in service sales/training, and currently I am a field manager. Who did you work for?
 
   / Electric tractor #25  
Holy smokes! I actually worked for the Crown factory. I placed Top Gun at a Turret sideloader school. I worked mainly out in N.Y. as the pay was way more than Pa. pays. Your company owner actually offered me $14 an hour to work there, with a top gun in TS on my resume. I told him "Thanks for lunch." Then I went to work for Manchester Ind. They promised to keep me closer to home than I used to be working in N.Y. Yea, right. I ended up further from home. So, I heard you guys got the Kane Tunkhannock contract. Looking for any techs? I ran that operation for a year before I left Manchester. I could tell you some good stuff. I think maybe we should talk sometime.
 
   / Electric tractor #26  
Wayne County Hose said:
Interesting idea. The one big drawback for you is the limited use. [[[The batteries in a high draw machine such as this are made to be discharged down to 80% discharged, rested 8 hours, then charged.]]] Your application would be very similar to a forklift application. For short uses, less than 4 hours a day, you are far better off with an IC power. You would destroy a set of batteries in a couple years using them the way you would like.
[[[I have to wonder at the reason for this charging regimen.]]] Lead acid batteries all suffer from deep discharge. 80% Depth of Discharge is never better than DoD in the range of 20 to 50% before recharge -- assuming the charger is smart and does not overcharge the batt. That, as you mention in a later post, causes heating and more rapid electrolyte loss. Perhaps the rest period is to assure the batt has a chance to cool and the 80% DoD is to allow for a dumb charger that does not conclude the charge cycle properly as the battery reaches full charge. Combine that with poor monitoring of fluid level and your battery will have a problem.
larry
 
   / Electric tractor #27  
Dang,, talk about crossing paths,, I use to work in the Penns Best facility across the road, don't know if our timeframes matched though as I have been off the road for 5 or 6 years. Yea we have gotten all their business, in fact we are doing an install for them in Pittston currently. We are always on the look for techs, we are growing so fast, I have 18 on the road at present and could use a few more.
 
   / Electric tractor #28  
Most modern chargers are very smart, after proper installation and setup require nothing from the operator except to plug in the discharged battery, they even "know" when to equalize the battery. The big problem with the new chargers is they are so sensitive a battery discharged much beyond the 80% is seen by the charger as the wrong voltage for the charger and the charger will not cycle on it's own, and requires things I will not detail to cycle the charger. At greater than 80% discharge damage is done not only to the battery, but also the components of the vehicle as well, the combination of the two will result in unnecessary higher cost of operation of the equipment and of course should be avoided. Lack of electrolyte during the charging process is a two edged sword, an energy barrier starts to build on the exposed plates, at first it slows the transfer of energy, then it inhibits it altogether, causing reduced energy storage,,,then the barrier starts to flake off and starts to fill from the bottom of the cell up further depleting the capacity of the battery.
 
   / Electric tractor #29  
Wayne County Hose said:
That little thing isn't worth the scrap it's made out of.
First of all, the drive wheels have about 1.5 hp each after losses, it would barely climb a small grade.
Second, they have no provisions for turning. No, I don't mean the steering wheel. On a dual drive motor truck, you need to have provisions to slow down or stop the inside drive wheel when turning. Kind of like what spider gears do in a rear axle. This can be done with either limit switches on the steering or electrically thru the controller with a steering feedback sensor. And I could go on for pages.
Personally, I would have gone with a 36v controller. This way you keep the amps down prolonging the life of all the electrical components. If I were to build anything larger, it would be at least 72 volts. I would go with higher voltages except for lack of obtaining a controller. I know that 72v controllers are easily obtainable, I don't know about higher voltage.
If anyone is interested, some good motor controller companies are Curtis, General Electric, and a fairly new one on the scene is Danaher. The cheapest and most popular are the Curtis units. GE has gotten their butts kicked lately by the other 2. I've worked on some of Danaher's stuff, DC power converted to AC to power the motors. Their stuff is very reliable, but pricey too. Also, AC drive is the way to go. Most forklift manufacturers have converted over to AC drive and lift systems. Some Forklift manufacturers don't even make a DC motor anymore. I can set-up an AC powered forklift to smoke the drive tires. DC trucks could never do that. Pretty funny seeing an 8,000 lb. electric forklift smoking the tires.
Ugh, now you guys have me thinking about building an electric powered vehicle again.

Strong criticism indeed.

Hi all,

I'm the builder of the wee electric tractor in question and would like to make a few comments.

The machine isn't made out of scrap. I'm not sure why Wayne County Hose describes it as being so. It's made out of the usual range of engineering components and materials. The most notable difference is the use of timber for the structure - but timber has a long history of use as a structural material. None of it is made from scrap.

I can assure you all it can easily climb a small grade. The "rated" power output of the drive motors is as stated on the web site, although if you are used to the power ratings of IC engines beware of direct power comparisons between electric motors and IC engines - they can be very misleading. For those interested in it's hauling capacity I recently used the prototype to haul small 1/4 ton trailers of gravel when I was laying a new driveway - it had no difficulty moving these loads whatsoever. It may be a small machine but it has no difficulty hauling the loads it was designed for. The drive is designed to produce peak torques up to the limit of traction of the wheels on grippy (dry asphalt) conditions. Under more usual operation on grass, dirt etc the wheels will loose traction and spin before the drive motors stall. In my judgment this is adequate for its intended use as putting in more torque capacity than can be usefully harnessed unnecessarily adds cost to what is intended as a low cost design. (DC drive motors are capable of producing peak torques of several times their "rated" continuous use torque on which rated power is quoted - and these torques are available right down to zero output shaft speed.)

Indeed this is a dual motor drive machine. However there is no need for independent speed control of the two drive wheels to enable turning. The speed/torque characteristics of DC PM motors are such that two can be driven in parallel from a single motor controller and still provide effective differential wheel behaviour during cornering. The tractor has no difficulty turning at full steering lock and without any wheel scuffing. There is a consequential partial movement of drive torque towards the inboard wheel, however this does not noticeably affect the steering behaviour under most driving conditions. Where any effect is noticeable it is if you try to apply power fast with the vehicle stationary and the steering hard over, in which case there is some understeer as the drive resists the turn - the solution is to move off more slowly if the front wheels are at full lock and to pick up speed as you straighten up - good driving practice surely.

The satisfactory differential behaviour is a result of the way that (for a given voltage) shaft speed and torque are related in the DC PM motors - as the vehicle turns the outboard wheel runs slightly faster than its natural speed and its torque output reduces slightly, the inboard wheel runs slightly slower and its torque output increases. This difference in drive torques does tend to resist the steering, however it is a question of magnitude. The torque difference is not sufficient to overcome the steering moment generated by the front wheels over the majority of drive conditions for the vehicle. In vehicles with higher power/weight ratios the effect may well be more pronounced but this is not a design failure of this machine and should not be represented as such.

In the event that some assistance with tight turning was required the most convenient way to implement this effectively in the machine would be through independent braking on the rear wheels - not by adding further electrical complexity and cost.

Whereas a 36V system would be perfectly acceptable choice, and higher volatges will generally result in lower current draw for the same power throughput the real issue is the engineering significance of this general principal. The 24V components used are fully rated for the currents being drawn at 24V and there are no reliability, availability or cost problems with their use. In general any of a range of voltages could be designed into this machine and all would be acceptable in engineering terms, 24V is quite suitable for this size of vehicle and is cost-effective.

As it has a low power drive the AC option is not cost effective.

For higher power machines such as those more generally discussed on these forums the design issues change and the technical solutions are indeed likely to change from those I've used on this small tractor. My technical comments above are not aimed at these higher power applications but to clarify the engineering design of this machine as it has been criticised.

If the design of my wee DIY electric tractor doesn't meet the needs of users of larger machines - fair enough (and hardly surprising given its size), but this does not justify its description as being worthless - especially on a public forum.

Ian

Built For Fun EV's.

PS Happy New Year to all from here in Scotland
 
   / Electric tractor #30  
Ian, believe it or not, I'm actually glad you found this post. What I should have stated was that it wasn't worth it's weight in scrap. As far as the turning goes, in ANY dual drive motor unit, without slowing down the inside drive wheel, there are negative effects, period. You would rather have the tires scuffing than not. With the tires scuffing, at least it's the terra firma below the unit taking the abuse and not the drive train. With the inside drive holding it's traction, now you have a situation where your inside drive motor is trying to turn, and can't. This results in a motor stalling condition, higher amp draw, excessive torque placed on the components, and so on. With your attention paid to this in your post, I know that this is a concern to you. Now, knowing that this unit doesn't have the power to turn it's inside drive wheel in a turn, this tells me that this unit is underpowered. Also, I have never seen a dual drive motor vehicle without any kind of inner drive wheel speed control that gave satisfactory turning performance. If you have done this, you have created a machine that some of the top engineers here in the states haven't been able to. They spend thousands of dollars in each unit to accomplish this and if they could avoid it, they would.
This is a unit built for what function? Hauling a couple flower pots around the yard? If you want to impress me, put a mower deck under it. As for moving 500 lbs. of gravel, placed in a pneumatic tire wagon, my 10 year old daughter could move this around.

For the size of this unit, you are correct in choosing 24v power. I have seen much larger electric units powered by less voltage. 24v is a good choice.

You have made a valiant effort here and I applaud that. However, other than what I stated above, I stand behind my earlier post. Turning off the inside drive motor is basic common knowledge among anyone involved in powered electric vehicles. Without being able to turn off the inside drive motor, and without a mower deck, this machine is basically useless to 98% of the public.
 

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