Electric trailer brakes and adjusting

[Farmwithjunk]

First and foremost, make sure you have an adaquate GROUND from the trailer to the tow vehicle. Grounding issues are the #1 cause of trailer brake and trailer lighting problems. Electric brakes are actuated with a magnet. They wear out and/or go bad. Some brake problems can be as simple as replacing that magnet. Shoes need proper adjustment. Depending on driving style, loads acrried on the trailer, and over-all condition of braking system, that adjustment may be needed as often as every 3000 miles. With Dexter as an example, replacing all the brake parts individually can be ALMOST as costly as simply replacing the entire brake assembly, backing plate and all. Last 7000lb per axle brake assemblies I bought were $110 per wheel. You get new shoes, magnet, springs, ect, making change very quick and easy.

Some people over use trailer brakes. They aren't meant to stop the entire tow rig. They are designed to ASSIST the truck. I've seen trailer brake drums worn far beyond service limits in just a few thousand miles. (Also dismantled more than one trailer brake to find "metal to metal" with linings GONE.)

Well adjusted trailer brakes don't jerk the truck to a stop. You'll feel a gentle but firm pull. If you feel the trailer yank on the back bumper, you have the controller set too aggressively. That wears brakes in a hurry.

 

[Treemonkey1000]

Thanks for the tips. As an Electronic Technician for the last 30 years I might have a running chance at checking for poor grounding on the electrical system. Now I am curious as to what lurks behind the drums. I will make sure to get them adjusted right. Or replace them. This trailer will probably not see a lot of road time as I don't plan on hauling the tractor too often. But I do foresee when people find out I have a big trailer they will be knocking on my door....

 

[George2615]

First of all you need to inspect the trailer brakes if you haven't done so. If they are good then you can adjust them with the wheel off the ground. Just like drum brakes on a car there should be an adjuster to turn until you feel a slight drag on the wheel when you spin it. Once adjusted you need to do as farmwithjunk says by checking your wiring and ground. If brakes are adjusted and wiring is good and working then you adjust the controller in the cab for the proper level and gain adjustment. I replaced shoes on my gooseneck last year and got a good deal on the shoes from a store in Arizona. A set of four brake shoes with spring kits and 2 replacement magnets from them was less than one set of shoes and spring kits if I had bought them locally. It pays to shop on the internet. Good luck with your brakes.

 

[Bird]

As has been said, you adjust the brakes at the wheels with a brake spoon just as you did the old drum and shoe brakes on older cars. Then you need to properly adjust the controller in the truck. Now if you only pull the trailer with the tractor on it, then you adjust the controller with the tractor on the trailer and it should stay there, but if you change the weight on the trailer; i.e., pull it sometimes with the tractor on it and sometimes empty, you may need to adjust the controller when the weight changes.

 

[Willman]

If the brakes are at all questionable and you want to haul heavey loads with saftey in mind,I would do a complete rebuild/replacement of all componets.
While its all apart, do all the wheel bearings as well.
For a few well spent bucks you'll have piece of mind when towing.

 

[Treemonkey1000]

I don't mind spending the money on maintaining these things. Especially for issues of safety. I bought this tractor to pull logs out of the woods. Then realized well I better buy a trailer to tow it. Then oh yeah you need chain binders to hold it down.. Now I see all of these other nice toys I could attach to the tractor.. Hmmm and oh yeah I could do some welding to fix the toys or add on things.. So now I am looking at a welder..
This is getting worse than owning a big sailboat.. No complaints though I will have just as much fun with this and have more practical applications than a sailboat..Thanks for all of the advice. I am going to pop off the drums and take a look at what lurks behind them.. Let's hope all looks good in there. At least I know how to do this kind of work..

 

[Treemonkey1000]

Just a update incase it helps out someone else buying a used trailer. I jacked up the trailer today and pulled off the right side drums. Good news is it has brakes on both axles instead of just one axle. Bad news is the wires were not hooked up on the right side brakes. Just the left side. Now what kind of moronic move is that? There was plenty of shoe left on the right side. I ran out of daylight to check out the left side of the trailer that had been wired. Man what a accident waiting to happen that could have been if I had loaded up the tractor and gone on down the road. The brakes did need adjusting as well on that right side. Tomorrow I will get under the left side and see what I find. I expect that since that side was wired to the braking control those shoes will be worn a good deal more. At least wiring the brakes is an easy task.

 

[Diamondpilot]

A lot of trailers I see have the brake wires simply tied to the axle from side to side with plastic wire ties. I am guessing this is what this trailer had and got ripped off by road debris or driving the trailer through tall grass, ect. Run you new wires in plastic conduit from Home Depot or similar. It is only $2 for a 10' piece of 1/2" conduit and will make things last a lot longer.

Chris

 

[powerstroke444e]

I have had the car pull out & stop in front of my truck & trailer when I was running over loaded & the only thing I can say is Dexter axles & brakes saved my truck & some idots life. New brakes & oil seals & bearing all around on 8k oil baths where about $600. on a smaller trailer I think backing plates with pades & magents where about $45 each.

 

[Treemonkey1000]

I see where the main wire harness went over to the left side to connect the brakes and tail lights at the back. There was no evidence of a wire pair going over the the right side at all which makes me wonder. At least the wires were coming out of the backing plates to about 6" on both brakes. That is a good idea to enclose the wire harness. Also a good idea to maybe replace all brake hardware. Once I get the other set's off and see what kind of shape they are in. I don't want to have something happen like running over some yahoo that stops in front of me too close. I feel bad enough for the Semi drivers that have to hit the binders because some nitwit stops in front of him. I just had to shake my head at what could have happened with only the left set of brakes being hooked up.