Electric valve control?

[anesthes]

I love this forum

I tried google, but didn't find exactly what I wanted.

I have a 4 way loader valve. I want to re-do the controls and such on my machine. Right now I have sloppy and somewhat long linkage to the valve. I was curious if I could purchase something that is 12v that will pull or push the valve, that I could connect to a self centering rocker switch. I'd love to replace my handles with a nice pair of grips with a thumb rocker to operate the bucket and loader arms.

Pictures attached

I know I can replace the whole valve but I'd rather just add some sort of push/pull solenoid.


-- Joe

 

[Villengineer]

The only cost effective solenoids that I know of to do this remove your ability to manually control the flow proportionally. ie they would either be open or closed, nothing in between. That would result in a rather dangerous loader. I would try and remove the sloppiness from your current linkage.

 

[RPW]

I agree. I found my sloppiness in my loader controls was due to a loose setscrew. Removed rubber boot and tightened and all is good with the world.

Good luck

 

[anesthes]

The only cost effective solenoids that I know of to do this remove your ability to manually control the flow proportionally. ie they would either be open or closed, nothing in between. That would result in a rather dangerous loader. I would try and remove the sloppiness from your current linkage.

The valves on my loader have no variable control. Even the manual says they are "open or closed, and that varying the amount of pressure applied on the valve will not increase or decrease performance".

I can instead vary the speed of the hydraulics with the throttle pedal.

What solenoids were you thinking of?

One of the reasons here is, I want to move my sticks that control the drive motors to beside me instead of in front of me, and doing so would make the linkage for the loader quite extensive.

-- Joe

 

[kennyd]

The valves on my loader have no variable control. Even the manual says they are "open or closed, and that varying the amount of pressure applied on the valve will not increase or decrease performance".

What loader is that?:confused2::confused2::confused2::confused2:

 

[anesthes]

What loader is that?:confused2::confused2::confused2::confused2:

It's a old Ford/erickson skid steer.

I'm trying to make the machine easier to use. It was designed for a 4 foot operator with girls legs. The sticks to drive the machine are in the wrong spot, the linkage to the loader controls is on the sticks. See attached.

Attached to this is diagram of the factory loader valve. Do you think I could replace this with two valves from Northerntool? A float for the boom, and regular spool for the tilt ?

Northman Fluid Power Hydraulic Directional Control Valve – 16.8 GPM, 4500 PSI, 3-Position, Double Solenoid, Open Center Spool, 12 Volt DC Solenoids, Model# SWH-G02-C3-D12-10 | Power Solenoid | Northern Tool + Equipment

These mount to a block with 3/8" NPT ports. I think my ports are -6AN (or jic or whatever it was called before the aircraft grade).

-- Joe

 

[kennyd]

That sure looks like a regular spool valve to me that would be proportional. I think you are mis-understanding something the manual.

 

[wdchyd]

anesthes,

What most of these guys have already said, by adding soleniod valves you're gonna have a "SLAM BANG" effect that is undesirable in loader controls.....

Adding proportional controls with matching joysticks will add considerable costs but will have the best control.....expensive machinery has these valves but require special skills to retrofit, mount and wire to existing systems.....

By removing the control valve you already have (which is already manually proportional) will remove the feathering effect that many here have said....:confused2:........I wouldn't do it, I'd fix what's there (tightening linkages)

 

[anesthes]

That sure looks like a regular spool valve to me that would be proportional. I think you are mis-understanding something the manual.

Dunno. Maybe so. I know I always just push it full up or down. I imagine in something with very fast hydraulics you may wish to vary the speed but, not on this machine. If anything I wish it was faster.

My Oliver 550 was the same way. I'd just push each lever all the way.

What do you think about the valves I linked from Northern?

-- Joe

 

[kennyd]

Dunno. Maybe so. I know I always just push it full up or down. I imagine in something with very fast hydraulics you may wish to vary the speed but, not on this machine. If anything I wish it was faster.

My Oliver 550 was the same way. I'd just push each lever all the way.

What do you think about the valves I linked from Northern?

-- Joe

You want "tandem center" spools-they will keep the work ports blocked in neutral (so the loader stays up) and you still need the proper subplates.

 

[anesthes]

anesthes,

.I wouldn't do it, I'd fix what's there (tightening linkages)

Here is the thing. I'm replacing the sticks anyway because the holes are elongated so the hing effect for the controls is faulty.

While I operate the machine, the sticks crash into my knees making it VERY hard.

I made some new sticks with my bender out of 3/4 stock like the existing sticks. I put a 45* sweep back, and then another 45* sweep up, and intend on welding the sticks as far outside as possible so they will rest right beside my thighs.

Now that is fine, but the linkage for the loader must follow the sticks. I'm afraid that if I try and put the same bends into the rod/linkage for the loader on each stick, it will bind. Please see attached images.

The rod will have to go:

6" to the right
then start going up and back at 45*

Then go up and forward at 45*

-- Joe

 

[anesthes]

I built new sticks for it, and re-did the linkage. Hopefully the angles will work.

I've got about $2000 into this machine, and a local dealer is selling the same model/age for $6500, so I guess I'm still ahead of the game.

I kind of wish it was a track machine.

I've got some questions about power beyond but I guess I'll start a new thread for that.

Thanks guys!

-- Joe

 

[J_J]

I have a similar valve and linkage in my Case 1845c skidsteer, and there is no reason that you don't have feather on that valve. The linkage will determine the speed of valve operation. What happens when you apply the levers slowly? Does your float work? If you had to, you could modify the linkage, but do you know what the factory linkage distance is supposed to be? If the holes have been elongated, add some metal and redo the holes.

If all the linkage are tight, and the valve is matched to the GPM, you will have feather operation. Leaver length will affect how fine the feather is.

We are talking hyd valves here, so ask your PB question.

 

[anesthes]

I have a similar valve and linkage in my Case 1845c skidsteer, and there is no reason that you don't have feather on that valve. The linkage will determine the speed of valve operation. What happens when you apply the levers slowly? Does your float work? If you had to, you could modify the linkage, but do you know what the factory linkage distance is supposed to be? If the holes have been elongated, add some metal and redo the holes.

If all the linkage are tight, and the valve is matched to the GPM, you will have feather operation. Leaver length will affect how fine the feather is.

We are talking hyd valves here, so ask your PB question.

Didn't catch this reply before I started the other thread, sorry.

In regards to the linkage. You know, I have not tried. I just crank the lever full up or down. I think the arms have a float that is all all the way down. Seems like its got up, neutral, down, and FLOAT at the very bottom which kind of locks into place. ? I re-read the manual last night, and I had confused the loader valve with the drive valve. The drive valve is the one that states that it is on or off, it says "instead to regulate drive speed add more or less pressure to the accelerator peddle". I'm not convinced that means the drive valves are not proportionate, but I think there is just such limited travel in the arms that it would be impossible to get the speed control right.

I've only got about an hour of seat time in this machine. Trying to get the quirks out. The foot throttle is just so hard getting used to. I gotta throttle it while i use the controls, but not too much to over rev it, but enough so I don't stall it. And now I have a charging issue I need to diagnose.

-- Joe