Electric valve control?

[anesthes]

anesthes,

.I wouldn't do it, I'd fix what's there (tightening linkages)

Here is the thing. I'm replacing the sticks anyway because the holes are elongated so the hing effect for the controls is faulty.

While I operate the machine, the sticks crash into my knees making it VERY hard.

I made some new sticks with my bender out of 3/4 stock like the existing sticks. I put a 45* sweep back, and then another 45* sweep up, and intend on welding the sticks as far outside as possible so they will rest right beside my thighs.

Now that is fine, but the linkage for the loader must follow the sticks. I'm afraid that if I try and put the same bends into the rod/linkage for the loader on each stick, it will bind. Please see attached images.

The rod will have to go:

6" to the right
then start going up and back at 45*

Then go up and forward at 45*

-- Joe

 

[anesthes]

I built new sticks for it, and re-did the linkage. Hopefully the angles will work.

I've got about $2000 into this machine, and a local dealer is selling the same model/age for $6500, so I guess I'm still ahead of the game.

I kind of wish it was a track machine.

I've got some questions about power beyond but I guess I'll start a new thread for that.

Thanks guys!

-- Joe

 

[J_J]

I have a similar valve and linkage in my Case 1845c skidsteer, and there is no reason that you don't have feather on that valve. The linkage will determine the speed of valve operation. What happens when you apply the levers slowly? Does your float work? If you had to, you could modify the linkage, but do you know what the factory linkage distance is supposed to be? If the holes have been elongated, add some metal and redo the holes.

If all the linkage are tight, and the valve is matched to the GPM, you will have feather operation. Leaver length will affect how fine the feather is.

We are talking hyd valves here, so ask your PB question.

 

[anesthes]

I have a similar valve and linkage in my Case 1845c skidsteer, and there is no reason that you don't have feather on that valve. The linkage will determine the speed of valve operation. What happens when you apply the levers slowly? Does your float work? If you had to, you could modify the linkage, but do you know what the factory linkage distance is supposed to be? If the holes have been elongated, add some metal and redo the holes.

If all the linkage are tight, and the valve is matched to the GPM, you will have feather operation. Leaver length will affect how fine the feather is.

We are talking hyd valves here, so ask your PB question.

Didn't catch this reply before I started the other thread, sorry.

In regards to the linkage. You know, I have not tried. I just crank the lever full up or down. I think the arms have a float that is all all the way down. Seems like its got up, neutral, down, and FLOAT at the very bottom which kind of locks into place. ? I re-read the manual last night, and I had confused the loader valve with the drive valve. The drive valve is the one that states that it is on or off, it says "instead to regulate drive speed add more or less pressure to the accelerator peddle". I'm not convinced that means the drive valves are not proportionate, but I think there is just such limited travel in the arms that it would be impossible to get the speed control right.

I've only got about an hour of seat time in this machine. Trying to get the quirks out. The foot throttle is just so hard getting used to. I gotta throttle it while i use the controls, but not too much to over rev it, but enough so I don't stall it. And now I have a charging issue I need to diagnose.

-- Joe