Electrical advice needed

[LD1]

Thanks...that explains why I'm seeing more 4 wire sets lately. Like I said, you almost need a picture of the plug to determine what it plugs into. My Menard's has a little bit of everything and it's easy to buy the wrong one (as it is for the cover plates that come with them).

Yep. Used to be 240v stuff didnt have 120v circuits. Ovens, water heaters, and dryers are three big ones in most homes. Ovens used to have analog dial timers, same with dryer, and water heaters had just the elements. Anymore, there is computer gadgets and led indicaters and digital displays on everything

 

[teejk]

Yep. Used to be 240v stuff didnt have 120v circuits. Ovens, water heaters, and dryers are three big ones in most homes. Ovens used to have analog dial timers, same with dryer, and water heaters had just the elements. Anymore, there is computer gadgets and led indicaters and digital displays on everything

Kinda funny that for those things you have to buy the big neutral wire...8ga 3 w/ground (4 wire set) is EXPENSIVE (been a while but $1/ft)? Wish the OP would come back to explain his machine!

 

[CobyRupert]

OP - I was at about that electric education level years ago. Remember, 120 hurts, 240 can kill. Try and get your set up OK'd and looked at by someone with a lot of experience. It reads like you don't have building inspectors. It's a lot cheaper to hire an electrician than a doctor in the emergency room.

.....actually....
If you touch one hot wire on a 240 circuit, you'd only get a 120v shock. (Each wire is only 120 volts to ground, but 180 degrees out of phase, or 240V, only with each other), If you somehow simultaneously touched both hot wires on a 240v circuit, chances are you did it inadvertently with one hand, and most of the short circuit current wouldn't pass through your heart, unlike the more dangerous 120v circuit current that does on its way to ground. Though it would burn, maybe even violently boil, your hand a lot faster.

 

[dadster4]

The rating plate on the equipment motor will list the "max fuse" size...use this as your breaker size, then size your wire to match the breaker amp rating and length of wire run to the equipment.
You will need a ground and the two hot leads. If you run conduit to the outlet box, it will serve as the ground. Be sure you have a separate neutral and ground from the garage subpanel to the main panel.

 

[buickanddeere]

Usually equipment mfr will list the required circuit required, including the breaker amperage. Like the shaper someone referenced, the manual says install a 30 A receptacle and breaker, full load is less. Don't always assume you need it to be more to derate it, maybe that has already been done for you.
You get the whole range of responses, from people who are scared to death of electricity and always say "get an electrician", to others that are totally comfortable around power and say do it yourself. I'm in the later group, electricity isn't rocket science, there are plenty of how to books.

Being comfortable around electricity and knowing what you are doing can be two different things.

 

[buickanddeere]

Electrical code is "morphing" on 240v (not 220v but that's a different topic) I think...a lot of stuff now requires a 4 wire set (dunno why but I don't understand arc-fault requirements or those ugly "bubble caps" on outdoor outlets or tamper resistant outlets either). The plug on the tool will dictate the wiring...if only 3 prong then "hot" "hot" "ground" (which is funny because neutral and ground typically come together in the panel) but some stuff does now require a "neutral" which I guess is a "back-up" in case the ground gets damaged. OP has yet to explain his machine...240v 30A must be something pretty big.

Don't be posting guesses when you don't really know. Wrong on several accounts .

 

[buickanddeere]

Never understood that "bonding" stuff either (it's only that green screw that comes with the panel). Took me awhile to understand "single point" grounding (which I'll guess that most satellite TV/Internet dish installers violate) but why the need to isolate the neutral/ground on a subpanel?

The bare ground system is not designed or intended to carry neutral current . The ground system is to ONLY hold everything metallic to earth potential. The insulated load carrying neutral conductors are to carry load current back to the Center tap on a single phase . Or to the Center of the Y on three phase .

 

[buickanddeere]

Cable for a 30.0 FLA single phase squirrel cage 240V motor would be would be 37.5amp or higher . Fast blow fuse 90.0amp. P rated delay fuse 50amp. Circuit breaker 70amp.

 

[dadster4]

"Cable for a 30.0 FLA single phase squirrel cage 240V motor would be would be 37.5amp or higher . Fast blow fuse 90.0amp. P rated delay fuse 50amp. Circuit breaker 70amp."
"Don't be posting guesses when you don't really know."
What the ????
Follow your own advice please

 

[buickanddeere]

"Cable for a 30.0 FLA single phase squirrel cage 240V motor would be would be 37.5amp or higher . Fast blow fuse 90.0amp. P rated delay fuse 50amp. Circuit breaker 70amp."
"Don't be posting guesses when you don't really know."
What the ????
Follow your own advice please

Straight out of the code book.
Your source ?