Electrical Issue on JD 5210

[doctorbillmoore]

Have had my 5210 for sometime with zero problems to speak of. A few days ago, I went to start it after it only sat a day or two, turned the key to start and heard a very minor pop and nothing happened. Won't turn over, won't sing me a Christmas carol, nothing!

The sound was like a fuse blowing, but cannot find any fuses blown, so wondering if there might be some fuseable link somewhere that I have not found and if it burned. I might not even be going down the right trail, so steer me right if you can!

Any information or direction would be greatly appreciated!

 

[jaxs]

Most likely only a loose/poor/dirty cable connection to battery post. Begin by removing - cable from post then remove + cable from post. Clean + post and cable,reinstall + cable. Clean - post and cable. Re-install - cable and see if things are back to normal. If not,we can go from there.

 

[doctorbillmoore]

Thanks for the response. Unfortunately that is not the problem. I should have mentioned I did check that, but will do it again. Additionally the lights work fine and when I turn the key to the start position, it does not affect the lights. It has a relatively new battery and it has a full charge.

 

[jaxs]

I would agree that connections are good if lights do not dim when attempting to ingage starter. Ordinarrly we would suspect safty switches but they don't carry enough current to make an audible pop when loseing contact. I'd check solenoid next. Not that it would cause a pop,but try putting shifter in high gear (WITH IGNITION IN OFF POSITION) push-pull on rear tire until fan blade moves. That would dis-ingage starter gear if it were locked with flywheel.

 

[doctorbillmoore]

I have removed the whole starter and took it to the local O坦eilly痴 and it checked out good. I had thought possibly the solenoid as well but after they did the check I致e ruled that out. The saga continues.

 

[JD5210]

It is not the fusible link if it was everything would be died. I have included a link to the owners manual, it shows where the fusible link is located. I have attached the wiring diagram and the starting system. I would start with the easy things again. Check the 30 amp fuses. Not too many things to check, key switch, safety switches (PTO and in neutral), starter relay, bypass relay and starter/solenoid.

Hope this helps.

http://manuals.deere.com/omview/OMRE71736_19/

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

Does it have the coolant temp sensor? Our 5420 does. It went bad and was blowing a fuse every time I turned the key. I unplugged it and put in a new fuse and it started like usual.

 

[doctorbillmoore]

Thanks very much! Will report back in. Hopefully will get it fixed in the next day or two.

 

[doctorbillmoore]

Not sure about the coolant temp sensor, but will take a look. Guessing it does but cannot find any blown fuses.

 

[kthompson]

Does it have the coolant temp sensor? Our 5420 does. It went bad and was blowing a fuse every time I turned the key. I unplugged it and put in a new fuse and it started like usual.

Same thing happened on my 5525 and this was the issue. Not a high price part. If you have same fuse panel as mine think it is fuse one in the main panel (mine is cab) and i was missing the fuse was blown. Was not near as easy to tell visibly as I expected it to be.

 

[doctorbillmoore]

Thanks for the heads up. I am going to try to figure it out over the next couple of days.

 

[doctorbillmoore]

Well a bit of good and BAD news. I have found the pop was a fuse on the lower left. I had checked the fuses twice before and have no clue how I missed this but I did. Bad news, it is Christmas and I have no 30 am fuses so going to see if I can find a Walmart open close by. Not sure why it is blowing, but need to get the 30 amp fuse it it as specs call for as opposed to the 20 that is there now.

Next thing, am I clear with my reading of the lower left fuse needing to be a 30 a? And any thoughts what might be blowing this particular fuse?

[

ATTACH=CONFIG]584418[/ATTACH]

 

[jaxs]

Well a bit of good and BAD news. I have found the pop was a fuse on the lower left. need to get the 30 amp fuse it it as specs call for as opposed to the 20 that is there now.

Next thing, am I clear with my reading of the lower left fuse needing to be a 30 a? And any thoughts what might be blowing this particular fuse?

View attachment 584417[

ATTACH=CONFIG]584418[/ATTACH]

Glad you found it. Getting correct fuse may take care of it (yes,slot F is 30 amp). If the new 30 amp blow's (immediately or within a few days)post back to this thread so that history is available. There's a simple procedure to nail down ongoing fuse blowing but no need to go there yet. Good luck and Merry Christmas.

 

[beenthere]

Before replacing the fuse (being at risk of it blowing again if a short), then put a 12v light bulb in its place.. if a short, then the bulb will be lit up. If no short, then the bulb will not be lit.

If lit, then you have the capability of tracing the wires to find the short.

For using the light bulb for a fuse, make up some short wires soldered to the old fuse.

 

[doctorbillmoore]

Seems the fuse replacement took care of the issue for now. I can稚 believe how I missed it the first time! Or should I say the first two times. I guess the third time壮 the charm. Now I知 wondering now why the 20 amp fuse had been working just fine for so long and now requires the 30. Oh well, it痴 mechanical.

 

[doctorbillmoore]

That is a great idea! I differ thought of that. Does the light have the capacity of 30 A flowing through it?

 

[the old grind]

.. I'm wondering why the 20 amp fuse had been working just fine for so long and now requires the 30. ..

A fuse limits catastrophic damage to wires and allows normal-use current draw. When supply voltage is reduced, devices try to overdraw their rated current. On the coldest day the starter draws & drops voltage the most.

Other loads (sensors, intake air heater, elec lift pump, etc) then can over-draw, and an 'underrated' fuse pops. They may have only pulled 26-8 amps when yours did, but that'd bust a 20a fuse like a Sylvania Blue Dot Press 25.

That is a great idea! I never thought of that. Does the light have the capacity of 30 A flowing through it?

The light 'tool' can't really replace a fuse. It will reduce voltage beyond itself and limit current in the fused circuit to roughly its own amperage. By grounding through a load or shorted circuit it will indicate that short circuit or that something is turned on. Full brightness means a 'short', and dimly lit means something isn't switched off. Not much but other light bulbs in the circuit will activate with it in place, and they'll be 'dim' too.

 

[the old grind]

Apologies for applying AC motor dynamics to other devices. (re: counter EMF) It's not a myth in all instances. While a DC motor can also draw more when heavily loaded or stalled and can suck battery voltage down when cranking, what that does and doesn't do of matter here is in doubt.

What I said about using a light bulb as a fuse may have been less confusing, that it limits voltage and current in its circuit. We ARE talking about a battery whose voltage is reduced when cranking the starter, and more so when oil is cold. If I exaggerated some side effects it's an alternative to seeing the patient in my office and breaking out my VOM to troubleshoot and learn.