Electrical Issue

[WCS755]

You need to trace the relevant wires back and unwrap the wiring bundle to see what you're looking at. It's a PITA but needs to be done

Thanks. I was afraid that was next. I traced the wires yesterday but didn't see anything obvious at the fuse panel or alternator. Most of the wires are bundled though. I will probably use electrical tape or zip ties to rebundle.

 

[LouNY]

Before you tear into your wiring harness to far.
You say your tractor "stalls". I would be tempted to say your fuel solenoid is dropping out.
It could be a bad solenoid or the connections right at the solenoid. You have two coils in that solenoid a heavier pull in and lighter hold in.
It may be possible to mechanically move the solenoid lever to open your fuel flow.

 

[Engineer42]

Years ago I had a Farmall H do that while plowing. Ran fine to field, kept shutting off. After several attempts, a finally parked it. I found a broken diode in alternator. Quite annoying.

 

[WCS755]

Years ago I had a Farmall H do that while plowing. Ran fine to field, kept shutting off. After several attempts, a finally parked it. I found a broken diode in alternator. Quite annoying.

I'm really hoping it's something readily accessible. I have my eyes on the wiring plug at the alternator. The insulation is solid but the wires are bent at a 90 degree angle. All the vibration could damage them inside the insulation maybe. Did you disassemble the alternator?

 

[Engineer42]

I'm really hoping it's something readily accessible. I have my eyes on the wiring plug at the alternator. The insulation is solid but the wires are bent at a 90 degree angle. All the vibration could damage them inside the insulation maybe. Did you disassemble the alternator?

No. Just swapped it for a rebuilt one. This was probably in 1981, cheaper to replace.

 

[NitroWade]

Could mice have chewed through the insulation on some wires ? Running through the wires from beginning to the end will usually reveal the issue in this kind of situations.

 

[WCS755]

Could mice have chewed through the insulation on some wires ? Running through the wires from beginning to the end will usually reveal the issue in this kind of situations.

 

[WCS755]

Thanks for the suggestion. I'm thinking now that the short is where the wiring harness passes over the engine block. It's a friction point.

 

[jgmo]

Looks to me like joecdeere's got you COVERED!
NOW....how to get to him that CASE of his favorite beer!

 

[GinNB]

I came to suggest operating the fuel solenoid manually if possible but LouNY had that covered. Good way to get you out of a bind short term, or save $600 or whatever Ma Deere wants for a fuel solenoid if that's the problem. Lots of other good suggestions too. Poking around the electrical connections with a temperature gun if you have one might help find a problem, particularly when it's cold out. Sometimes a problem is a bit warmer than the rest of the system.

 

[martyk]

Same thing happened me. Check your ground at the battery negative to the frame. My fuses were blowing too

 

[Jaygyver]

Probably not the problem but as been mentioned check the battery cable to frame mount ground connection. I have a '97 770, just a manual version of yours, and I recently replaced the battery tray/box area in mine and you would be surprised at the spark you get at the ground end of the cable. It may also be the issue with the "dying when using it", if it's loose or just corroded enough it may drop all your electrical which your solenoid needs?

Something else to think about,
Not sure what year you have as to where your battery is mounted but I ended up putting the battery in a "boat" style battery box. It's just a plastic box with a lid made for for battery's so the floor doesn't get acid on it. Should of done it 25 years ago!! I had to replace pretty much all the inner tin pieces near the battery.

 

[lpakiz]

As long as were talking about electrical faults, I'd like to say this:
A SHORT is a quick way of saying a "short circuit to ground" and that's the only place a short goes--to GROUND, prematurely--before power gets to its intended load. Usually this condition results in a blown fuse or burned up wires (if the fuse isn't sized correctly)

A "bad" connection is a circuit that is not complete--ie: an "open" or partially open circuit. These include broken wires, corroded or loose, poor connections. An "open circuit" will not blow a fuse, altho a poor connection will sometimes create heat and be warmer at that location than the rest of the circuit.

Id also add that if you have starter trouble, there are 4 places to check and clean--the 2 battery terminals, the 1 large wire on the starter solenoid and the GROUND cable on the chassis.
Remember, a full circuit starts at the + battery and ends at the - battery. The ground circuit is every bit as necessary as the supply circuit.

Happy Troubleshooting!

 

[koshari]

As long as were talking about electrical faults, I'd like to say this:
A SHORT is a quick way of saying a "short circuit to ground" and that's the only place a short goes--to GROUND, prematurely--before power gets to its intended load. Usually this condition results in a blown fuse or burned up wires (if the fuse isn't sized correctly)

A "bad" connection is a circuit that is not complete--ie: an "open" or partially open circuit. These include broken wires, corroded or loose, poor connections. An "open circuit" will not blow a fuse, altho a poor connection will sometimes create heat and be warmer at that location than the rest of the circuit.

Id also add that if you have starter trouble, there are 4 places to check and clean--the 2 battery terminals, the 1 large wire on the starter solenoid and the GROUND cable on the chassis.
Remember, a full circuit starts at the + battery and ends at the - battery. The ground circuit is every bit as necessary as the supply circuit.

Happy Troubleshooting!

very accurate summary,

Shorts are generally caused by poor insulation, ( hint this is what the "Megohm" range on your meter is for )

Bad connections are caused by poor conductivity, ( hint this is what the "ohm" range on your meter is for )