mudcat
Platinum Member
schmism said:
I would hope that you are trying to say that he would still need 10/3 with or without a grounding conductor. The grounded conductor would need to be insulated.
Electrical Question
- Thread starter FarmTracRay
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I would hope that you are trying to say that he would still need 10/3 with or without a grounding conductor. The grounded conductor would need to be insulated.
schmism
Super Member
im saying you can run 2 hot wires to a 220V device and then ground the device and be properly "protected"
ie my AC compressor outside has 2 black "hot" wires running to it, and the metal frame of the unit is connected to a ground rod next to the unit.
a 220V device needs no ground/neutral to run properly.
ie my AC compressor outside has 2 black "hot" wires running to it, and the metal frame of the unit is connected to a ground rod next to the unit.
a 220V device needs no ground/neutral to run properly.
mudcat
Platinum Member
I'm sorry, I thought you were discussing the wires from the power source to the pole building.
schmism
Super Member
Well the same is essentally true for the power run to the building (10/2) with the cavot that it needs to be "terminated" in a sub pannel that has a dedicated ground (ie a new ground rod at that sub pannel location) Last i checked code dictated that each subpannel have its own dedicated ground. (ie new ground rod)
in other words if you DID run 10/3 with a ground/neutral and terminated it in a sub pannel, then the pannel would still need a dedicated ground dispite the fact you "brought one along"
make sence?
in other words if you DID run 10/3 with a ground/neutral and terminated it in a sub pannel, then the pannel would still need a dedicated ground dispite the fact you "brought one along"
make sence?
mudcat
Platinum Member
A ground rod does not replace the grounded (neutral) conductor. Which is needed for 110v power and lights.
mudcat
Platinum Member
Yes it will work. But it is not safe. Say you were digging outside of your building and you noticed you cut the wire to the ground rod, you reach down to see how bad it is and.............................lights out literally.
Inspector507
Super Member
A ground rod gives lightning a place to go. It will serve no other purpose. A ground rod should never be used to ground a piece of equipment. If you do, I'll be sure to send flowers at a later date if any short ever happens in your compressor.schmism said:
Timber
Veteran Member
I see I have to consult the big book on code but I'm sure the ground rod at the sub panel is the neutral. Even if you cut into the cable in the ground it will trip out at the main panel because your feed to a sub panel starts at a breaker that is grounded. That said if you reach down and grab the cable regardless if it 10/3 or 10/2 with a bare hand your gona take the hit. same with your grounded compressor. Electricity will take the shortest path to ground. in this scenario that would be you, also if I may add if you hit a cable and grab it with a bare hand Shame is on You. You are correct that lightning will follow this path but that is not the only reason to ground your panel. In order for electricity to work properly in the US anyway neutral/ground is designed in all are tools, appliances, and ex cetera
hilld
Gold Member
I am pretty sure that by code the sub panel needs to be grounded back to the main panel, only a main panel can have the ground rod attached to the ground bus. Otherwise you would have a ground loop (bad things can happen).
This is the way it was explained to me by my electrician friend, when I tried to hook my old barn up to my new barn (new 200A service there), I was going to ground the old barn using the existing ground rods and he told me that was a big NO NO. So, I ran 2G wire (2 hots, 1 N, 1 G) for a 100A subpanel.
You might want to check the NEC book to make 100% sure. If you do go the 10/2 route, you will have to put colored tape on the white wire as it is no longer a neutral wire, put something like red electrical tape on both ends. Personally I would just run the 10/3 or something bigger depending on your load requirements.
Derek
This is the way it was explained to me by my electrician friend, when I tried to hook my old barn up to my new barn (new 200A service there), I was going to ground the old barn using the existing ground rods and he told me that was a big NO NO. So, I ran 2G wire (2 hots, 1 N, 1 G) for a 100A subpanel.
You might want to check the NEC book to make 100% sure. If you do go the 10/2 route, you will have to put colored tape on the white wire as it is no longer a neutral wire, put something like red electrical tape on both ends. Personally I would just run the 10/3 or something bigger depending on your load requirements.
Derek