Electrical troubleshooting question

   / Electrical troubleshooting question #11  
Got a VOM? Join the wires at the plug or just plug in a lamp or similar and then go to your breaker panel, throw the breaker off, and check for continuity. If that checks out, the problem likely to be found at the breaker end. If no continuity, the likely culprit is at the receptacle end. Pull it out of the wall box, reset the breaker and with the VOM check for voltage where the lines are secured. If power is there replace the receptacle.
 
   / Electrical troubleshooting question #12  
Got a VOM? Join the wires at the plug or just plug in a lamp or similar and then go to your breaker panel, throw the breaker off, and check for continuity. If that checks out, the problem likely to be found at the breaker end. If no continuity, the likely culprit is at the receptacle end. Pull it out of the wall box, reset the breaker and with the VOM check for voltage where the lines are secured. If power is there replace the receptacle.
OOps!! should have said throw the breaker off first. Bad, BAD,BAD!!
 
   / Electrical troubleshooting question #13  
Got a VOM? Join the wires at the plug or just plug in a lamp or similar and then go to your breaker panel, throw the breaker off, and check for continuity. If that checks out, the problem likely to be found at the breaker end. If no continuity, the likely culprit is at the receptacle end. Pull it out of the wall box, reset the breaker and with the VOM check for voltage where the lines are secured. If power is there replace the receptacle.
OR, simply twist the pair together at either end and use your VOM for continuity check.
That would make the twisted pair of wires into one long wire.
 
   / Electrical troubleshooting question #14  
My guess is that the OP does not own a VOM and does not know how to use it. Why else would anyone blindly replace a breaker without making a voltage check at the output of the breaker first? It doesn't make sense unless he doesn't have a VOM and even if he did he does not know how to use it. If I had to no VOM, and had to drive to town to buy one, I would have done that before replacing the breaker.

The option of calling an electrician in this case seems like the most logical thing to do in this case. It is NOT what I would do, but I think it is the right thing for the OP to do.
 
   / Electrical troubleshooting question #15  
I have a 110 circuit that is open between a wall outlet and the breaker. Breaker does not trip, but outlet is dead so to me this says it is an open circuit somewhere in that wire. Initially thought it was the breaker, but replaced it with no joy. This wire run is pretty much inaccessible, buried above HVAC in a basement ceiling it would be very difficult to remove it (but not impossible).

Can I disconnect this at the breaker, and at the wall outlet, and leave the dead wire in the basement ceiling? Then I would route a new #14/2 romex from breaker to the outlet. Didn't know if leaving a dead wire is a problem, I guess I could wire nut it and mark it at both ends.

Anyway just throwing it out there in case someone has been here before.
I have been called out for this before. Ended up the receptacle was controlled by a light switch . You really need to call someone who can do the required testing. Wires do not open circuit for no reason. receptacles will be wired with more than one in the circuit. The one before it could be the issue. A licenced electrician will find the issue quickly
 
   / Electrical troubleshooting question #16  
My guess is that the OP does not own a VOM and does not know how to use it. Why else would anyone blindly replace a breaker without making a voltage check at the output of the breaker first? It doesn't make sense unless he doesn't have a VOM and even if he did he does not know how to use it. If I had to no VOM, and had to drive to town to buy one, I would have done that before replacing the breaker.

The option of calling an electrician in this case seems like the most logical thing to do in this case. It is NOT what I would do, but I think it is the right thing for the OP to do.
Agree, but a pro seems the proper route.
And if he had a VOM he'd perhaps not know how or what it can do.
 
   / Electrical troubleshooting question #17  
Agree, but a pro seems the proper route.
And if he had a VOM he'd perhaps not know how or what it can do.
Valid point! This is when its time to sit down with the instruction sheet that comes with the VOM and bone up on what it has to tell you to get you started. I can't count the times I have bought a tool I've not owned before and read ALL the instructions. Not the "manly thing to do" but ask me if I care!! 😏
 
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   / Electrical troubleshooting question #18  
I have a 110 circuit that is open between a wall outlet and the breaker. Breaker does not trip, but outlet is dead so to me this says it is an open circuit somewhere in that wire.
What is the wall outlet used for?
Can I disconnect this at the breaker, and at the wall outlet, and leave the dead wire in the basement ceiling?
Usually there are several outlets on one breaker, so I would say no.
Anyway just throwing it out there in case someone has been here before.
Are there any GFCI outlets in your house?
 
   / Electrical troubleshooting question #19  
Just a FIY....I have several outlets in house built in about 91 that the upper part of receptacle makes really poor or something no contact with plug but lower half or receptacle works fine....

Also IF you have Aluminum wire, the wire tends to heat and cool and expand and contract and eventually will be loose under any terminating screws or in any wire nuts.....

IF your house was wired to code all connections should be exposed in boxes so check all boxes and connections between breaker and receptacle
 
   / Electrical troubleshooting question #20  
If you have Aluminum wire all the connections should be coated with an aluminum anti-ox paste to keep them from oxidizing. If they oxidize it will cause them to get hotter due to more resistance which causes more expanding and contracting, etc.
 

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