Electrical usage for your house???

[dex3361]

Eddie
I can only find the newer model of the 3 ton amerastar AC but the amps will be very similar and they are listing the Run Load Amps as 9.5. Here is a link to the Spec sheet and you can see look at the model #2A7M3030A1. Keep in mind it can swing down from that depending on the out/inside temps.

http://www.trane.com/webcache/un/split system air conditioners (ss)/product/12-1218-03_04012009.pdf

Eddie that is just for the outside unit, you would check the amp draw at the disconnect beside the outside compressor. The inside unit would be checked seperately.

 

[Scooby074]

Eddie, from what ive seen so far i dont think your AC is out of the ordinary. Readings can vary depending on your meter and the motor itself. Check any other components of the system with their respective nameplates.

 

[smfcpacfp]

I have a 1,500+ sq foot log house in one of the colder parts of the country. Our monthly bill shows a graph of the monthly useage. It averages about 1,000 Kw from a high in the winter of 1,100 to low of 800 in the summer. I always felt like a electircal hog, but I feel better after seeing what others use. We don't have air conditioning. There are only two of us now. My remberance was that there was more useage when our two children lived here.

I think something is wrong Eddie.

 

[heehaw]

"Keep in mind it can swing down from that depending on the out/inside temps."
how does it do that?
heehaw

 

[irvingj]

Amperage on a refigeration unit will vary according to load.

In AC, high outside temps = high pressure on high side = higher amps; high inside temps = expansion valve opening to allow more refrigerant into evaporator = higher head pressure = higher amps.

As the load or outside temp tapers off, amperage will drop as well. Just like driving a car uphill vs. on a flat or downhill. (Heehaw--lots of people don't realize this.) As pointed out, FLA means "Full Load" amps, which should be a max under normal circumstances.

 

[dex3361]

Amperage on a refigeration unit will vary according to load.

In AC, high outside temps = high pressure on high side = higher amps; high inside temps = expansion valve opening to allow more refrigerant into evaporator = higher head pressure = higher amps.

As the load or outside temp tapers off, amperage will drop as well. Just like driving a car uphill vs. on a flat or downhill. (Heehaw--lots of people don't realize this.) As pointed out, FLA means "Full Load" amps, which should be a max under normal circumstances.

Well said

 

[Chuck52]

like Tallyho said, cleaning the coil can make a big difference. My SIL is in HVAC and he serviced my unit a couple of years ago for me. It needed a little freon, but the major difference he mad was in cleaning the coil. I didn't keep track of the electric usage but the difference in how much the system ran was dramatic. Since then I've kept is hosed down myself.....doesn't take an HVAC expert to pop the top and squirt water through the grid.

Chuck

 

[EddieWalker]

Tally got me to wondering what the coils and terminals look like in the compressor. I had a really busy day today, so I asked my dad to take a look. I also printed out some of your comments and suggestions. With that, he looked at the coils and determined them to be nice and clean. He looked at the terminals and also said they were good. He set the AC to 65 degrees and while it was running, he felt the wires, which were cool.

He then went to do the same on the inside, blower unit. I'm drawing a blank on what it's called. The filter was clean. I change it the first of every month. I've never opened it up, but Dad did. The heating coil is spotless.

But he did find a big suprise.

The insulation that lines the sides of the unit was sucked into the fan or blower. It's a wonder tha any air got through the insulation since it was sucked in there so badly.

He had already pulled it out when I got home, but he didn't know what to do in order to stop it from happening. The first picture shows it starting to get sucked back into the fan/blower again. Just in the picture, it's amazing how much air the insulation blocked.

I found a metal screen/grill type of thing in my scrap pile that fit after cutting it down to size. Then I wedged in a length of scrap 2 inch PVC pipe to hold the grill in place. There is now a large gap between the insulation and the fan.

I'm hopeful that this will allow the air to flow freely, which should require allot less power and electrical usage.

Thank you.
Eddie

 

[irvingj]

Yep, Eddie you got it! With a lack of airflow over the evaporator, the coil would likely ice up, further restricting airflow.... it's a vicious cycle that will:

a) cause your house thermostat to say, "Hey- we need more cooling! Keep running!" (and not get any...)

b) Do bad things for the compressor (eventually), as the liquid will NOT evaporate in an iced-up evap coil (no source of heat), and potentially --likely, after a bit-- send liquid back to the compressor...

That insulation "plug" alone would make your compressor run a lot more than it should. If it sounds OK (no loud rapping noises like loose valve-lash on rocker arms in a gas engine), it's probably OK- compressors are pretty tough, actually. If it did pump liquid, the valves-- spring-loaded flapper type, most likely-- are usually the first to go. You might wish to check it's efficiency: you should get about a 15 degree drop over the evaporator, between incoming air and discharge air, assuming humidity isn't extremely high. (I keep thermometers on my heat pump all the time for that purpose- one at the filter and one in the discharge duct.)

Your wire mesh-over-the-insulation solution should be perfect.

 

[jinman]

Eddie, good work by your dad and you both. Too bad you didn't find that back in April before the cooling season. It's so cool now that you probably won't know if it'll make a difference until next spring/summer. I'm sure you will also heat your house much better with the increased flow, but our heating needs are so low here in Texas that it won't make as big a difference is my guess.