Electrical wires behind Kioti seat questions

[Beeenvenue]

I have a new 3510SE. The dealer told me the bullets were for extra lights but did not know what the other was for. I used 14ga wire, crimped on mating bullet connectors, and am running a 120W LED I mounted onto the 1 angle of my dealer-added ROPS canopy. The only issue is the FEL gets in the light path in many/most bucket positions.

The lights are on with ignition so I use the LED bar connector to disconnect whenever I am not using them (I wrapped the bullets in double wrap electrical tape for moisture).

I am thinking of adding a set of individual 50W on each ROPS upright (using clamps) to point backwards and think that might be more useful since the FEL will not obstruct them.

Amazon has a number of reasonably priced LED supposedly for off-road use that include the relay and wiring harnesses and switch to do what Scrambler 82 said. You might go that route to be more conservative and sure of the circuit and power supply.

 

[justman777]

I use the cab lights for most everything at night, and I'm working at lot at night these days with the 100+ South Texas heat wave we have going on. Unfortunately, they're tied to the ignition. Been thinking about adding a few lights around the cab that are on a separate circuit. Wish I had that thought when it was cooler outside....

 

[Scrambler82]

IMHO... Run a new fused power wire from the Battery to a relay, then to the lights.
Control the relay with a switch on the dash or a side panel, which ever you have or want to install.

Even if these new lights are LEDs it is better to create a new circuit, you will know what is going on with the whole system if you know where the wires go... AND you won't over load any existing circuit.

It doesn't take much, a 12V, four pin relay, some wire, a fuse for the power wire from the battery, some connectors, Heat shrink with adhesive inside, a switch and if wanted an indicator light, oh ya the Lights you want to use as work lights.
Mount all the components, the Relay should be as close to the battery as possible with a fuse between the battery and the relay.
Mount the Switch and Indicator Lights on the dash and the Work Lights where you want them.
Run the wires between them; bing, bang, boom, all done.
Biggest things here is to make sure all components and wiring are sized for the amount load being applied to the circuit.

Sound likes more work but this way you can have a separate circuit for Work Lighting, even have two switches and relays for separate front and rear lights and you don't interfere with the Tractor, its running circuits, and the existing lighting circuit.

Just me, in the long run you end up with less strain on a circuit that you aren't even sure will support the extra lighting AND the lighting will last longer with properly sized wire and components.

Needed to a
dd: One thing to add, if the intentions are to add more than jus the work lights, consider using a separate Circuit Panel for all of the additional lighting; this applies to Work Lights, or even additional Cab Lighting.
The ones I use only Truck for Off Road use, are made by "Painless Wiring", called "[FONT=Helvetica Condensed, Helvetica, sans-serif]CirKit Boss Auxiliary Fuse Block Kit" and comes in 3 and 6 Circuit Panels and they have built in Realys to handle extra current if needed.
Again, the use of a separate Circuit Panel allows for separating the extra loads from existing wiring.[/FONT]