Electronic Ignition for M-F with Continental gasoline engines

[can do]

I've been using the Pertronix EI setup on my MF 35 Utility for a few years. One of THE BEST upgrades I did. Hot, fat blue spark that snaps hard, easier ignition from a dead cold start in winter, 100% recommend to anyone on the fence about it. Couple it with a nice one-wire alternator and coil (I still run original coil) and you'll notice a serious difference.

Hey shaeff ! I totally agree with You & the coil & spark plug wires are merely a suggestion & not a requirement I went that route for higher voltage to the spark plugs & of course they had to be red to match the tractorthanks for your + input.

 

[Rebeldad1]

no problem. just wanted others to know its not required. a great upgrade

 

[SCOOBIEGUY]

Hey fellow TBN members ! This is for M-F owners who are tired of points & want to do a simple conversion to a electronic ignition & use the stock distributor, cap,& rotor. Benefits set your timing once & forget it plugs are less prone to fowling, & all you need to check is the distributor cap & rotor button for wear,& spark plugs last 2 to 3 times longer. I've been using them on my M-F 50 for 22 years! & have replaced cap & rotor twice & plugs once & she gets used year round . It'a ( Pertronix ) brand you will need to get the no. of your distributor located at the base it's a tag recommendations, New 8mm plug wires ,Pertronix Flamethrower coil. Best place to get the the Pertronix & coil as far service & price is CBS Performance & there website is www.cbsperformance.com If your still using your tractor as a working tractor & plan to keep it & want reliable performance it's a good investment IMHO. I will follow up with a picture of the install in place.

Quick question for Can Do, what is your timing set to at idle, I also have the Pertronix system installed om my 1955 TO35 and i'm troubleshooting to odd sputter, I checked my timing and at idle it 30 degrees, normally with points the idle timing would be 6 degrees, and 26 degrees at high RPM.

 

[can do]

Quick question for Can Do, what is your timing set to at idle, I also have the Pertronix system installed om my 1955 TO35 and i'm troubleshooting to odd sputter, I checked my timing and at idle it 30 degrees, normally with points the idle timing would be 6 degrees, and 26 degrees at high RPM.

Hey SCOOBIEGUY ! Welcome to TBN, Your timing is set at the same as if You still had points & according to my shop manual for my 1959 M-F 50 that would be at 6 degrees BTDC @ 450 rpm & maximum advance would be at 2000 rpm 2 degrees BTDC. How long have You had the Pertronix installed ? Also will need to check everything as far as wiring connections at the distributor ,cap ,rotor, plugs , & plug wires, Also are You using the same original coil These are just a few things that could be causing your sputtering.When I installed mine I decided to rewire everything & upgrade the plug wires & put the flame thrower coil in ( Pertronix ) & I have never had to set the timing again. I hope this is some help to you. & feel free to contact me again & let me know what You found out. Oh! one other thing if You live in a high altitude area the timing would be different.

 

[fried1765]

Quick question for Can Do, what is your timing set to at idle, I also have the Pertronix system installed om my 1955 TO35 and i'm troubleshooting to odd sputter, I checked my timing and at idle it 30 degrees, normally with points the idle timing would be 6 degrees, and 26 degrees at high RPM.

If you add your general location to your profile it may help others to help you.

 

[SCOOBIEGUY]

Hey SCOOBIEGUY ! Welcome to TBN, Your timing is set at the same as if You still had points & according to my shop manual for my 1959 M-F 50 that would be at 6 degrees BTDC @ 450 rpm & maximum advance would be at 2000 rpm 2 degrees BTDC. How long have You had the Pertronix installed ? Also will need to check everything as far as wiring connections at the distributor ,cap ,rotor, plugs , & plug wires, Also are You using the same original coil These are just a few things that could be causing your sputtering.When I installed mine I decided to rewire everything & upgrade the plug wires & put the flame thrower coil in ( Pertronix ) & I have never had to set the timing again. I hope this is some help to you. & feel free to contact me again & let me know what You found out. Oh! one other thing if You live in a high altitude area the timing would be different.

Thanks CAN DO for the follow on proper timing with pertronix setup. I have the flamethrower II coil 0.6 omhs, i'll change the plugs this weekend, I had misadjusted carb that was causing soot on the plugs, I cleaned them up and it seemed to better.

I'm the second owner and the previous gentlemen that owned it passed away before could ask him questions about the pertronix setup.

Last year I changed all fuel lines, cleaned the tank, and replaced the fuel bowl and I have good flow to the Carb.

I also fixed my rich condition by resetting the carb settings per

Marvel-Shebler:
Idle Air: Approx. 1 full turn open from closed or until the engine idles smoothly when warm.
Main Jet: 1-1/4 turns open-fine tune after she warms up to a smooth idle.


Next, I will check for intake manifold and carb flange leaks, using a propane bottle and seeing if the RPMs go up.
Finally I plan to check the valve clearances, but the gas tanks has to come off again

 

[can do]

Thanks CAN DO for the follow on proper timing with pertronix setup. I have the flamethrower II coil 0.6 omhs, i'll change the plugs this weekend, I had misadjusted carb that was causing soot on the plugs, I cleaned them up and it seemed to better.

I'm the second owner and the previous gentlemen that owned it passed away before could ask him questions about the pertronix setup.

Last year I changed all fuel lines, cleaned the tank, and replaced the fuel bowl and I have good flow to the Carb.

I also fixed my rich condition by resetting the carb settings per

Marvel-Shebler:
Idle Air: Approx. 1 full turn open from closed or until the engine idles smoothly when warm.
Main Jet: 1-1/4 turns open-fine tune after she warms up to a smooth idle.


Next, I will check for intake manifold and carb flange leaks, using a propane bottle and seeing if the RPMs go up.
Finally I plan to check the valve clearances, but the gas tanks has to come off again

Hey SCOOBIEGUY ! Sounds good I did replace my carb. about 5 years ago whoever the original owner was striped the drain plug at the bottom & I didn't want to keep removing the carb. to clean it out & the new 1 works fine & I'm glad I replaced it works great the whole engine runs like it's fuel injected & starts right up all the time. Before You do a valve clearance check check to see how she runs with the new plugs in. & I had the fuel tank off a few times myself I think it's a pretty easy job, I've owned My M-F for 25 years now & I wouldn't trade for the anything it's just so dependable , Even tough I bought a brand new one in 2018 a M-F 1526 I like the 50 as much as my new one.

 

[SCOOBIEGUY]

Looks like changing the plugs did the trick sputtering practically gone, used tractor for 3 hours to move 20tons of gravel with back blade.
Previous ones had fouled up, I cleaned them with a wire brush and carb cleaner but I guess that wasn't enough.

I used Champion D16 plugs because that is what was installed originally.
I see some using Autolite 3116 what are you guys running on your continental Z134 gasser?

 

[fried1765]

Looks like changing the plugs did the trick sputtering practically gone, used tractor for 3 hours to move 20tons of gravel with back blade.
Previous ones had fouled up, I cleaned them with a wire brush and carb cleaner but I guess that wasn't enough.

I used Champion D16 plugs because that is what was installed originally.
I see some using Autolite 3116 what are you guys running on your continental Z134 gasser?

View attachment 707008

It's July!
Didn't realize you would still need chains in Ontario.
Must be mighty FAR NORTHERN Ontario!

 

[SCOOBIEGUY]

Good one fried1765
I don't have a flat spot on my property, without 4WD I leave the chains on all year, better traction in the forest when skidding wood and dragging rocks
This 65 year old tractor cost me 1/6 of a new one and its really strong and serves me well.
If only it had power steering, it just means I have stronger arms I guess.