You did not specify what it is you are painting?
Generally, the less you spend for the paint, the harder it is to get it to dry, and cure, (reach full hardness), in cool temperatures.
Industrial enamel like you are using, is as slow as it gets, in warm weather. In cold, it's ridiculous.
Though the cost will likely be double, (or more), there are low end automotive paint systems that are always much better quality, and easier to work with.
I suggest you use some type of infrared heater(s), to raise the metal temperature prior to, during, and after the painting process.
In your case, these can be the common overhead catalytic gas heaters, or some type of electric heater.
These heaters normally do not have fans in them to blow dust in your paint, making them ideal for the job.
Infrared heaters warm objects, rather than air, which is ideal for painting, particularly when working with metal objects. This is much easier, and more economical than warming the parts by raising the air temperature. This also allows for some type of ventilation to keep the fumes low, and reducing the danger of ignition.
This type of heat will dry the paint from the inside out, which improves gloss, and allows it harden better, and faster.
You want to have a fairly even metal temperature across what it is you are painting. So, depending on the size of the object, this can be easy, or difficult.
One heater can easily give a good result with smaller objects. But, large objects may require multiple heaters, strategically placed to achieve even temperatures.
You want the metal nice and warm, but not hot. If you can keep your hand on it, you are good to go.
After you finish painting, leave the heaters going to "bake" the paint, (drive the solvents out). This will allow the film to harden much sooner than if it air dries.
These are examples of a basic electric infrared heaters for painting:
1500-Watt Portable Infrared Curing Lamp - Model SRU-1615 at National Tool Warehouse
Carbon Fiber Spray Baking Booth Infrared Paint Curing Heating Lamp Light Heater | eBay
Generally, the less you spend for the paint, the harder it is to get it to dry, and cure, (reach full hardness), in cool temperatures.
Industrial enamel like you are using, is as slow as it gets, in warm weather. In cold, it's ridiculous.
Though the cost will likely be double, (or more), there are low end automotive paint systems that are always much better quality, and easier to work with.
I suggest you use some type of infrared heater(s), to raise the metal temperature prior to, during, and after the painting process.
In your case, these can be the common overhead catalytic gas heaters, or some type of electric heater.
These heaters normally do not have fans in them to blow dust in your paint, making them ideal for the job.
Infrared heaters warm objects, rather than air, which is ideal for painting, particularly when working with metal objects. This is much easier, and more economical than warming the parts by raising the air temperature. This also allows for some type of ventilation to keep the fumes low, and reducing the danger of ignition.
This type of heat will dry the paint from the inside out, which improves gloss, and allows it harden better, and faster.
You want to have a fairly even metal temperature across what it is you are painting. So, depending on the size of the object, this can be easy, or difficult.
One heater can easily give a good result with smaller objects. But, large objects may require multiple heaters, strategically placed to achieve even temperatures.
You want the metal nice and warm, but not hot. If you can keep your hand on it, you are good to go.
After you finish painting, leave the heaters going to "bake" the paint, (drive the solvents out). This will allow the film to harden much sooner than if it air dries.
These are examples of a basic electric infrared heaters for painting:
1500-Watt Portable Infrared Curing Lamp - Model SRU-1615 at National Tool Warehouse
Carbon Fiber Spray Baking Booth Infrared Paint Curing Heating Lamp Light Heater | eBay
