Energy Saving Tips for Winter
- Thread starter RPM
- Start date
- Views: 3305
RichNJ
Silver Member
- Joined
- Aug 17, 2001
- Messages
- 111
- Location
- Clinton, New Jersey
- Tractor
- Kubota L4310 HST, GE ElekTrak, Cub Cadet 125
If you find a thermal camera to use make sure you have a VCR and enough wire to run the video output of the Camera to the VCR and record the whole thing for later. Ask up front what type of connector the camera uses. In my case it used a BNC connector. I used a BNC to RCA converter at the camera and then had about 50 feet of spare cable wire (RG-58 or 59 I think) to run to the VCR. At the VCR end I soldered a RCA connector onto the wire to plug into the video input.
I may still buy a laser thermometer for other things. Just think of the possiblilties. Check your kids temperature. The radiator temp on the tractor. Hydraulic fluid temp. Your wife's facial temp when you tell her you need another 3 point implement. It may give you a split second advantage over the frying pan flying your way.
I may still buy a laser thermometer for other things. Just think of the possiblilties. Check your kids temperature. The radiator temp on the tractor. Hydraulic fluid temp. Your wife's facial temp when you tell her you need another 3 point implement. It may give you a split second advantage over the frying pan flying your way.
TerryinMD
Veteran Member
When looking for your programmable thermostat, make sure that you get one that works with your furnace/AC unit. There are some minor differences between heating systems. Take a look at your furnace owners manual to make sure you get the correct unit.
Terry
Terry
fishman
Veteran Member
TerryinMD,
That begs a question: What programmable thermostat did you get to work with your heat pump? All of the ones I have seen at Home Depot and the like say they don't work with heat pumps. Did you have to special order it? Was it pricier than "normal" digital thermostats? I would really like to get a unit that works with my Lennox heat pump system.
That begs a question: What programmable thermostat did you get to work with your heat pump? All of the ones I have seen at Home Depot and the like say they don't work with heat pumps. Did you have to special order it? Was it pricier than "normal" digital thermostats? I would really like to get a unit that works with my Lennox heat pump system.
ronjhall
Super Star Member
John
I replaced my complete heating and cooling system a couple years ago. I had a Honeywell PC9800 installed. This unit is not cheap. It has capability to run any forced air home heating and cooling system that is made. It may be more than you need. But the site has information on thermostats.
I replaced my complete heating and cooling system a couple years ago. I had a Honeywell PC9800 installed. This unit is not cheap. It has capability to run any forced air home heating and cooling system that is made. It may be more than you need. But the site has information on thermostats.
TerryinMD
Veteran Member
John,
I have two different models of the programmable Honeywell themostats.
The newest one has a few more bells and whistles than the one Ron suggested. The older is a little more like the one in the link. Yes, you'll probably have to look around for one. Check out some web sites. You might be able to find one for a decent price. If my memory serves me right, the first one was around $150 installed and the second was a little more and included with the installation of the system.
As a side note, we went from one 4 ton unit with propane backup to two smaller units 2 and 1.5 tons. The larger one has propane backup (first floor) and the second (second floor) just has a small electric backup.
I have had them for every house that I have owned. They pay for themselves fairly quick.
Terry
I have two different models of the programmable Honeywell themostats.
The newest one has a few more bells and whistles than the one Ron suggested. The older is a little more like the one in the link. Yes, you'll probably have to look around for one. Check out some web sites. You might be able to find one for a decent price. If my memory serves me right, the first one was around $150 installed and the second was a little more and included with the installation of the system.
As a side note, we went from one 4 ton unit with propane backup to two smaller units 2 and 1.5 tons. The larger one has propane backup (first floor) and the second (second floor) just has a small electric backup.
I have had them for every house that I have owned. They pay for themselves fairly quick.
Terry
PaulInMi
Silver Member
Have you considered a wood burning stove or wood burning add-on that attaches to your furnace ducts?
My uncle has an add unit that he can pretty much heat the whole house, unless it gets really cold. He has a free supply of wood though, which is something that needs to be considered.
Good luck.
Paul
My uncle has an add unit that he can pretty much heat the whole house, unless it gets really cold. He has a free supply of wood though, which is something that needs to be considered.
Good luck.
Paul
PTRich
Gold Member
RPM:
I love to burn wood. My personal feeling is if you like it warm (70-75) it is cheaper than oil or electricity. Because we heat with wood I don't worry about air leaks very much, introducing fresh air in your house I figure is a good thing if you use a wood stove. Our house is very well insulated though.
PTRich
I love to burn wood. My personal feeling is if you like it warm (70-75) it is cheaper than oil or electricity. Because we heat with wood I don't worry about air leaks very much, introducing fresh air in your house I figure is a good thing if you use a wood stove. Our house is very well insulated though.
PTRich
StoneHeartFarm
Veteran Member
RPM
If you use spray foam to seal around doors and windows, look for the new stuff from "Great Foam". Comes in a blue can and is guaranteed not to warp your doors or windows. I've sealed around both of my doors with it. Pumped in enough that it came out the other side. Worked great and didn't bother the door at all.
Additional attic insulation will also help. If you check Owens Cornings website they have a link to the DOE that will allow you to type in your zip code, heat type, etc and it will tell you how much insulation you need. There are also many pages of instruction on installing the product--how and where.
A big thing to check for is the rim joists. (aka box rims, end rims, end board-- basically, the upright board that lies ontop of the foundation that the floor joists connect to.) Older homes usually do not have any insulation in this location. The problem is that this is a portion of the exterior wall (especially in 2 story homes), so you wind up with a wall that is say R19 with a 10" strip around it that is only R1. Also, if you are on a crawl space, try insulating the floor. I can give you the recommendations for my locality, but I think the DOE would do you better as you will get the info for your state. If you insulate the foundation it will also help, but be aware that my own testing has proven that pink foam must be covered to below the grade level to prevent roots, mice and bugs from penetrating. Penetration is bad as it can make a channel for water to wick your heat away.)
The good news it that home heating fuel is anticipated to be lower this winter.
SHF
If you use spray foam to seal around doors and windows, look for the new stuff from "Great Foam". Comes in a blue can and is guaranteed not to warp your doors or windows. I've sealed around both of my doors with it. Pumped in enough that it came out the other side. Worked great and didn't bother the door at all.
Additional attic insulation will also help. If you check Owens Cornings website they have a link to the DOE that will allow you to type in your zip code, heat type, etc and it will tell you how much insulation you need. There are also many pages of instruction on installing the product--how and where.
A big thing to check for is the rim joists. (aka box rims, end rims, end board-- basically, the upright board that lies ontop of the foundation that the floor joists connect to.) Older homes usually do not have any insulation in this location. The problem is that this is a portion of the exterior wall (especially in 2 story homes), so you wind up with a wall that is say R19 with a 10" strip around it that is only R1. Also, if you are on a crawl space, try insulating the floor. I can give you the recommendations for my locality, but I think the DOE would do you better as you will get the info for your state. If you insulate the foundation it will also help, but be aware that my own testing has proven that pink foam must be covered to below the grade level to prevent roots, mice and bugs from penetrating. Penetration is bad as it can make a channel for water to wick your heat away.)
The good news it that home heating fuel is anticipated to be lower this winter.
SHF
Thanks for the tips on thermostats and insulation guys. I'm assembling a good list for a visit to Home Depot.
SHF - when you refer to insulating around the doors - I assume you did this during construction? Or did you take off the trim and do it retroactively?
Patrick
SHF - when you refer to insulating around the doors - I assume you did this during construction? Or did you take off the trim and do it retroactively?
Patrick
