How will you cool it?
Still working that part out, although I suppose I could leave the original water pump intact and continue to use the original cooling system.
Why the two check valves. With the exhaust valve locked closed just one check on the spark plug exhaust should do the job if you go that route.
Note: removing the intake valves and placing a check valve on each cylinder intake would probably work much better. That would get rid of the valve train.
You could also forget about the spark plug exhaust and use a check valve on each isolated exhaust valve port. Larger port size that way for better fluid flow.
I was planning on retaining at least the intake valves to avoid having to fab up a check valve adapter for each intake port, although that is another possibility. I'm just trying to get by with as many off-the-shelf parts as possible. That was part of my reasoning behind the second check valve. In a 4-stroke engine, the intake and exhaust valves are both closed during the power stroke to allow the expanding gas from the burning fuel to force the piston down. The power stroke would be irrelevant in a compressor application so I would need to either find a way to force the intake valve to open on every down stroke, or use an additional check valve to allow the sparkplug port pipe to function as an additional intake for the power stroke.
One option for changing the valve operation would be to replace the camshaft sprocket with a duplicate of the crankshaft cog. Normally there would be a 2:1 ratio between the size of those two pulleys to make the camshaft rotate once for every 2 rotations of the crankshaft. If I made the timing cogs 1:1 and removed the exhaust rockers I could do away with one set of check valves.