Engine and pump sizing for wood splitter

[MossRoad]

Yes, you could put a PTO hydraulic pump onto the PTO shaft of the back of the tractor by all means. That tractor has 31PTO HP. A PTO hydraulic pump is over $500. Then you have to have a reservoir, valves, hoses, fittings, filter, ram, I-beam (you have that), wedge, gallons of hydraulic oil and probably something else I've forgotten.

Here's a brand new log splitter for $999....
CountyLine 22-Ton Log Splitter - For Life Out Here

And its already engineered, put together, hwy towable, and ready to go as soon as you take it home. Unless you have the parts already, its gonna be real hard to make anything that works this well for the same price.

 

[LD1]

Yep, PTO pump is gonna be ~500.

31 PTO HP at your disposal, You have the ability to run a pretty large SINGLE STAGE pump on that Pto. That would be a really quick splitter and would be the only way I would consider a 3PH unit. A large single stage is gonna probably be faster in reality than even a 28gpm 2-stage. Since it dont have to kick down into low speed when in the wood. something like this 7.8 CU IN PRINCE HC-PTO-9A PTO PUMP 540 RPM

But yet again, its hard to beat a store bought unit. Especially if you are just planning on building something normal. Like 11gpm and 4" cylinder. Everyone makes that combo. And they make it for a lot less money than you can. The argument that it isnt as good of quality....I disagree. You have to be really good and a really skilled fabricator to do better than what an OEM splitter is. And you also get a warranty.

Only reason to consider building one IMO is you want something more than what the $1000 splitters can offer. In my case, I built for speed, wanting to pair a 22gpm with a 4" cylinder with a table. Others want to design log lifts, hydraulic 4 or 6-way wedges, etc. But you havent mentioned any of that. You are basically talking about duplicating something that you can buy for $1000, and you are gonna spend more than that by the time you are done.

 

[Cord]

I run a 22gpm two stage pump with a 5" cylinder and a 18hp Wisconsin engine. The engine really snorts just before the pump shifts out. I couldn't see having any less power. A auto cycle valve frees your hands up. My splitter has a special head that cleaves the log in half and then splits that half into three more pieces. 4 pieces of wood per stroke. Running wide open it takes three people to just feed it. A fourth person would be required if you wanted to stack the wood.

I know the valves and fittings all have flow ratings, but don't worry about that too much. The flow rating is based on pressure loss and with 3,000 psi you can afford to lose some pressure. Besides you won't see max flow and pressure at the same time anyways. My skidsteer flows 36 gpm and it uses fittings that are rated for 20gpm.

 

[LD1]

I run a 22gpm two stage pump with a 5" cylinder and a 18hp Wisconsin engine. The engine really snorts just before the pump shifts out. I couldn't see having any less power. A auto cycle valve frees your hands up. My splitter has a special head that cleaves the log in half and then splits that half into three more pieces. 4 pieces of wood per stroke. Running wide open it takes three people to just feed it. A fourth person would be required if you wanted to stack the wood.

I know the valves and fittings all have flow ratings, but don't worry about that too much. The flow rating is based on pressure loss and with 3,000 psi you can afford to lose some pressure. Besides you won't see max flow and pressure at the same time anyways. My skidsteer flows 36 gpm and it uses fittings that are rated for 20gpm.

Could be in the engine rating, or could be in where the shift/unload pressure is set on the pump.

Does it act the same when you fully extend or retract the cylinder? I have 16.5HP, and sure, you can tell when its under load, but not even close to stalling.

 

[Cord]

I only see the engine labor when it's extending and about to shift from high to low.

 

[LD1]

Might have the first stage pressure set just a bit too high

 

[2458n]

Enjoyed this thread. Build the splitter with what you have available now. .The 4 inch cylinder will be fine - most of the store bought ones use this. Honda engine will be easy to buy a adapter for. Use the internet to buy other parts as cheaply as possible. Tank can be made from anything; do not forget the filter. Building your own gives you a good feeling. While you are using your homemade splitter you ( like everyone on here) will be building your next one in your head.

 

[LD1]

Yep. Hyd tank can be repourposed anything. Mine is a 25 or so gallon capacity transformer canister with removable top. All the garbage removed and the holes in the lid where stuff came through were welded shut. Welded my fittings in the side. To ever add oil or clean out, the whole top comes off, which is nice

 

[Cord]

Might have the first stage pressure set just a bit too high

It's adjustable?