Awsome! This will be the first thing I check. All my lines are still in tact, but the blown seal is sure right on tract for my problem. Thanks for the link. I think the pics will help me more than anything else since I don't have a shop manual. Thanks again. I'll post when I'm finshed witht the diagnoses...Thanks again.
Engine knocking ..bang bang bang..
- Thread starter olink
- Start date
- Views: 7724
Thanks for the other leads for help. I'm going to go try removing the pump and see if the seal is gone. From everything that has been written here, that seems to be the most likely problem. Of course, it is raining really hard this morning, so I will be delayed yet again... been really busy with the military this week so I haven't even had a chance to raise the hood on the tractor..let alone bust bolts!
Thanks Oly
Thanks Oly
greg_g
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2003
- Messages
- 6,126
- Location
- Western Kentucky
- Tractor
- JD3720 Cab, 300X loader with 4-in-1 bucket
Don't beat yourself up about the hydraulic overfill. Excess will normally just blow out the vent. Until a seal goes that is. The hydraulic pump has a pressure seal around the pump shaft. When that ruptures, there's nothing to stop hydraulic fluid from flowing into the crankcase. This has happened to several owners when the quick disconnect coupler "uncouples". If Jinma had engineered in a relief valve, this would be a non-problem. But that's the topic of another discussion.
"Deadheading" is when the pump is being overworked trying to push hydraulic fluid into a blocked path. The engine hammers and bellows black smoke, trying to turn a highly resistant pump, that's trying to push fluid that's go nowhere to go. The fact that you just experienced a problem involving the rear hydraulics (TPH) introduces additional possibilities, but they all still point to the pump.
If my assumption is correct, I think you may end up buying a new pump to fix this problem. Then you could take your time finding somebody to see about repairing the old one. Nice to have a spare on the shelf - for "next time".
It should go without saying, but you should replace the oil filter and change the oil as well.
//greg//
"Deadheading" is when the pump is being overworked trying to push hydraulic fluid into a blocked path. The engine hammers and bellows black smoke, trying to turn a highly resistant pump, that's trying to push fluid that's go nowhere to go. The fact that you just experienced a problem involving the rear hydraulics (TPH) introduces additional possibilities, but they all still point to the pump.
If my assumption is correct, I think you may end up buying a new pump to fix this problem. Then you could take your time finding somebody to see about repairing the old one. Nice to have a spare on the shelf - for "next time".
It should go without saying, but you should replace the oil filter and change the oil as well.
//greg//
Olink,
As weird as it may sound. Before you buy a new pump, try to tighten the mounting bolts first. I thought I had blown a pump, purchased a new pump, pulled off the old pump only to have then relized that the old pump bolts had loosened up. the gasket had not blown only the contact seal. Even if it is the pump, they are not expensive.
As weird as it may sound. Before you buy a new pump, try to tighten the mounting bolts first. I thought I had blown a pump, purchased a new pump, pulled off the old pump only to have then relized that the old pump bolts had loosened up. the gasket had not blown only the contact seal. Even if it is the pump, they are not expensive.
Olink,
Whew....Your much better off that it was Hyd. Oil... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif At least is still a lubricant and based on the limited time you ran it in the motor after noticing the problem, you should not have caused any damage.... You will however want to "flush out" that oil once you have the repair seal isolated and fixed.
Once you have the repair done, I would run some new diesel oil through for just a couples of minutes to warm it up and mix with any Hyd. Oil in the system..
Make sure you have corrected the problem, ie: no more fluid transfer.... then drain again and refill with new oil... then keep checking it regularly....
If it had been coolant or fuel, much more problems as those materials are far less able to provide adequate lubrication to the vital components....
Hope your repair goes well....
Whew....Your much better off that it was Hyd. Oil... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif At least is still a lubricant and based on the limited time you ran it in the motor after noticing the problem, you should not have caused any damage.... You will however want to "flush out" that oil once you have the repair seal isolated and fixed.
Once you have the repair done, I would run some new diesel oil through for just a couples of minutes to warm it up and mix with any Hyd. Oil in the system..
Make sure you have corrected the problem, ie: no more fluid transfer.... then drain again and refill with new oil... then keep checking it regularly....
If it had been coolant or fuel, much more problems as those materials are far less able to provide adequate lubrication to the vital components....
Hope your repair goes well....
JohnS
Platinum Member
I recommend getting a new pump and a rebuild kit for the one that failed. Do not make the mistake of just trying to replace the shaft seal. It will blow out immediatly. Here is a web page on pump disassembly.
The question that is unanswered is "why" did the pump go. As Greg said, the usual cause is the quick disconnects. Doesn't sound like that was the case, but recheck them. Overfilling the hyd tank shouldn't cause it. It would cause some spewing out the vent and some lubrication and rust preventative measures for the back of the tractor /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif I am suspicious of the impact, but I am not convinced it would put that kind of pressure on the hydraulic system at the pump.
Anyway, be careful on the first start-up after the repair, and oil/filter change. If the pump is still dead headed, it should be hard to turn over and if it starts, you should be able to sense it is under heavy load. Shut it off immediatly, or you will loose another pump.
The question that is unanswered is "why" did the pump go. As Greg said, the usual cause is the quick disconnects. Doesn't sound like that was the case, but recheck them. Overfilling the hyd tank shouldn't cause it. It would cause some spewing out the vent and some lubrication and rust preventative measures for the back of the tractor /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif I am suspicious of the impact, but I am not convinced it would put that kind of pressure on the hydraulic system at the pump.
Anyway, be careful on the first start-up after the repair, and oil/filter change. If the pump is still dead headed, it should be hard to turn over and if it starts, you should be able to sense it is under heavy load. Shut it off immediatly, or you will loose another pump.
Affordable
Advertiser, Platinum Member
We have the hydraulic pump repair kits in stock ,in the kit is the pump seal also,let me know if we can help.
Tommy web page
Tommy web page
