Engine Oil

[sherpa]

Here are the filter numbers for my TC33

NH TC33D WIX Numbers New Holland l
Air Filter 42985 (Inner) 87300180
Air Filter 46438 (Outer) 87300178
Fuel Filter 33264 87300039
Hydraulic 57098 SBA340500930
Oil Filter 51056 87415600
HST SBA340500890

Sherpa

 

[MikePA]

<font color="blue"> was that really the spec from the manual? </font>
Yep, right out of the Operators' Manual.

 

[Soundguy]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( so shouldn't both xW-30 oils have the same high temperature limit?? )</font>

Once your engine has been running for a few minutes, the internal temp is going to be the same between two tractors one in 0 degree weather, and one in 30 degree weather.

The lower weight oil.. the first number, is what will help in the cold start issue. After temp comes up, the viscosity modifiers come into play.

Soundguy

 

[kozak]

MikePA & AndyG,

Unfortunately, New Holland is behind in updating their documentation. I looked for those API service designations (SG - CE) on any brand of oil. Could not find them listed. So I checked on the internet. What I found is that both the SE rating (For gas engines) & CE rating (For Diesel Engines) are obsolete. The most current API ratings are SL introduced in July of 2001 & CH-4 introduced in Sept. 1998. Both of these latest ratings cover the older obsolete ratings.

 

[AndyG]

Thanks for all of the comments. I did get the oil changed on my TC 40D w/supersteer. For the first time I went to the dealer to get the oil and filters. Now I have all of the part numbers. 15W40 was used. I did have to run it in about 0° temps last week and all was well. I had to have help from jumper cables but once it turned over the correct speed it fired right off. (I live in Evansville IN and last week we got 22.3" of snow. Record breaking and almost unheard of here. We usually get about 6"/year) When I referenced the manual all I remember seeing was NH part numbers and weight recommendations. I never saw specifications for the oil diesel specific etc. Thanks for your help folks!

 

[djradz]

Andy, something is wrong if you had to jump start that machine. Using 15w-40 may have made it a little more difficult, but unless you're talking about temps well below zero, the situation shouldn't be so bad as to require a jump. Are you turning the key to "RUN" and then waiting until the glow plug light goes out (or you hear the relay click out) before starting? If you did, and still had difficulty, you may want to try using 2 cycles of the glow plugs. You can do this simply by turning the key to run, waiting for the light or relay to go out, turn the key to "OFF" momentarily, and then turning the key back to the "RUN" position again, and again waiting the 5 seconds or so for the glow plugs to cycle again. Then start.

Also, if you tractor is in an unheated space, unless you're using strictly synthetic oil, I think 15w is too thick and you may end up not only noticing harder starts but also a delay before the low oil pressure light goes out since it takes quite a while for the oil to get up to the upper reaches of the engine where the oil pressure switch is.

 

[woodlot]

DJ - I have noticed exactly what you have described with my tractor. It is in an unheated spaced up here in the frigid north (WI). I'm running 10w-30 and have noticed a delay for the oil pressure light to turn off on cold days. What, if anything, does this mean? Should I be taking some action to stop this? I don't want to cause any damage during warm-up!

 

[djradz]

The oil pressure sensing unit is located in the head area of your engine. What I know for sure is that the indication you see tells us that there is inadequate oil pressure at that point, for several seconds, during cold start. With my old Ford 1720 which was housed in a very open shed, and using 10w-30 oil, the light sometimes would stay on for up to 15 seconds in temperatures of less than 20 degrees. I switched that tractor's oil to 5w-30 for winter use and it would only stay on for a couple of seconds after that. My TC-40D is in a semi-heated pole-barn now (always above 40 degrees) and I use Shell Rotella T 5w-40 synthetic and so I never see any problems either.

My concern with the old 1720 and I would think with your tractor would be the lack of lubrication and possible wear that might occur during this long period of time. NH says 5w is OK for colder climates, so I figure, why not use it?

 

[daffyduk]

I have been noticing that my light takes about 10sec. to go off and then after about 10 more secs it will come back on again for about another 10secs. I am ready to change the oil and was wondering if I could go to 5/40 synthetic all year around. I am currently using 15/40 and I think that is probably the reason for the slightly erratic oil pressure at start up. Any ideas? Also..........what is the filter part # if anyone knows right off hand. Thanks again everybody. TC 40D, Northern Indiana.

Gene

 

[jinman]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I have been noticing that my light takes about 10sec. to go off and then after about 10 more secs it will come back on again for about another 10secs.
)</font>

Gene, my tractor does something similar to that in all temperatures, cold or hot, when I first start it. I've always figured it is an air pocket that develops when the engine is shut off for prolonged time periods. I don't think my light stays on for a full 10 seconds. I'll have to time it. It is a little disconcerting to see it go out, then come back on momentarily before going out and staying out. One of these days I'll put a pressure gage on the engine to see exactly what is happening. The sending unit is supposed to open (light OFF) at 6 psi and close (light ON) at below 6 psi.