Engine Overhaul

[Piper Pacer]

All, I have a question about piston replacement. One of the pistons that I found during my overhaul had some scratches/gouges on the piston skirt and I was wondering what experience you might have about replacement/reusing the piston. The machine shop that is doing the work said that the piston was good to reuse. They said it was in tolerance and it would be fine.
Any input?????
I didn't realize how fuzzy the picture was until now.

Thanks

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

I would not use that piston. It has been slapping (rocking) in the bore. Is that piston from the cyl. you had sleeved?
Bill

 

[JC-jetro]

1700 does not sleeved cylinder same as old 8n. I wished it did. Ditto on what Bill said, I would not use that piston as I think you might need to bore out your cylinder leading to slightly bigger rings or may be pistons. How does the cylinder bore looks like?

JC,

 

[Piper Pacer]

The piston that has the scratches didn't come out of the cylinder that was bad. I'm going to be a test ground for sleeving a cylinder it sounds like because it's already done, realizing that this block didn't have sleeved cylinders. The one that was sleeved was put back to standard.
The other cylinder was ok by just honing.

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

Why didn't you bore both cyl. and put in 2 new pistons. That would have been a better repair. The boring of both cyl. would have been cheaper than sleeving one. Now you are going to have one cyl. that is all new and one that is with in spec. but a lot looser.
Bill

 

[mostly_gas]

I would not reuse the piston. I would also have both cylinders the same size.
How many hours on the engine?

 

[Piper Pacer]

I miss spoke earlier because both cylinders are exactly the same. They bored and sleeved one and then made both cylinders the same.
The tractor has 1200 hours and from what I've seen it has been through **** and hasn't been taken care of at all.
I just went through the wiring yesterday and it was a mess. Wires were burnt, broken, unplugged and anything else you can think of. That part is now complete and everything works once again. I also found that the alternator and oil pressure sensor was unplugged.
I found one glow plug that wouldn't heat up but now fixed as well.
I'm ordering a new hydraulic screen today which cost $125.
I'm also going to order a new piston.

 

[PILOON]

Actually that piston could be OK, it might only be scuffed from carbon particles in which case emery paper could clean it up.
The important thing is clearances in the ring grooves and slop on the wrist pin.
At worst it looks to me that there was a bit of piston slap which would be from worn cylinder walls and if that cylinder was sleeved to standard then the piston is OK, providing it is not worn oval.
That can be checked with micrometer or even calipers.
Naturally if price is minimal, by all means replace it if for nothing else than peace of mind.

Real shame as to how some people have no respect for machinery.

 

[JC-jetro]

I miss spoke earlier because both cylinders are exactly the same. They bored and sleeved one and then made both cylinders the same.
The tractor has 1200 hours and from what I've seen it has been through **** and hasn't been taken care of at all.
I just went through the wiring yesterday and it was a mess. Wires were burnt, broken, unplugged and anything else you can think of. That part is now complete and everything works once again. I also found that the alternator and oil pressure sensor was unplugged.
I found one glow plug that wouldn't heat up but now fixed as well.
I'm ordering a new hydraulic screen today which cost $125.
I'm also going to order a new piston.

Cool. Please post pertinent pictures of important parts of repair. It will be good for Ford 1700 archives and for the owners here. Did the sleeve they put in had a turned lip on top of the block? did they machine the head along with boring it out to allow sleeve installation ? is the sleeve Stainless steel ?

Thanks,
JC,

 

[JFS2295]

The sleeve won't be stainless. It should be the same or similar alloy material as the block. It has to have the same thermal expansion rate and it has to have the same wear / friction as the block to be compatible with the ring metallurgy. If the sleeve is harder, the rings won't seat properly. Being a repair sleeve it will be dry and not flanged at the top. It gets machined flush with the block when the deck surface is dressed.

Yes, there are some flanged dry and always wet sleeves, but the flanged are part of the original block design.