Epoxy floor kits

[Doc_Bob]

Yes, I know this is not a tractor project, but what the heck! Where else can I ask such a knowledgeable group of folks???

I am putting in a new garage floor. I think the epoxy floors look good. Never had one. I know I have to let my new garage floor sit and cure for at least 28 days before coating with epoxy. But here is my questions, should I do it myself with one of the many home owner friendly kits from Behr, Rustoleum or spend some serious $$$$ and have a "pro" do it.

Thanks in advance for any comments.
Bob

 

[RobS]

It sounds like your floor isn't poured yet? If that is the case, there are some products that go in/on the floor at pour that will color, seal and such. I don't know much about them, but it might be worth a call to your concrete guy. Good, bad or indifferent, it's only a choice before the stuff is set /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Nasty135]

Bob, If you haven't poured yet as Rob mentioned you can color the concrete if thats suitable for your desired finish ...

If you truly want a good floor coating in a "DIY job" sherwin williams make a good product ...

also another product is U-coat-it a little more $$ but highly reccomended by Garage journal used to be Garage Junkies ....

Depending on how big your floor is will determine how much if any help you may need due to curing time on mixed materials...then adding fleck etc.... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Etching the floor may be suggested in some circumstances..

 

[buckeyefarmer]

I used kit by Rustoleum, sold at home depot, at least is was a couple yrs ago. It still looks good after a couple yrs.
Make sure you clean the concrete very good as directed.
Because of the garage size, I used 2 kits, and put the leftover on part of the basement floor.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

closeup pic.

 

[PineRidge]

Bob my neighbor bragged about getting his floor sealed with epoxy even before the 1st car tire touched the floor. He said that was the secret to getting a good bond with the concrete (right!). Well less than 6 months later big spots started flaking off so this epoxy must not all be created equal.

I like the oily spotted with mud and dirt here and there look myself. It's a pole barn, no one's eating off the floor anyway, right? /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

 

[bugstruck]

Make sure you have poly under that slab if your going to epoxy it. Even that won't guarantee the bond but it's required. Frankly, slabs on grade don't take to well to a barrier coat over time. You could color the concrete or stain it with a concrete stain after it's cured. Staining and clear coating is real popular in restaurants these days. You'll be much happier with that than epoxy, I guarantee. Add another clear coat when it gets tired and it will look like new again. You want something that penetrates the conrete and gives a true mechanical bond. We've put all the industrial paints down at some point and they all fail from the tops down or for bond over time. No paint on concrete really stands the test except in the rarest of instances, but some of the expensive commercial traction surfaces are good to foot traffic for a few years. Not what you want in a garage though.

 

[RichNJKubota]

I've used the epoxy based coatings on basement and garage floors and they have worked fine. The only problem I've seen is that the epoxy coating is slippery if you don't put a non-slip additive like sand or those decorative flakes.
As mentioned, Sherwin-Williams has a good one and I've found (last time was a couple yrs ago) it was the cheapest. The most expensive was Home Depot.

 

[Doc_Bob]

To everyone, thanks for your comments. I am now thinking that maybe my garage floor can just be left natural. I can spend the time and money on something else. I went to the garage forum and read many success and horror stories. I think I am like most folks, would prefer some idea that success will be the outcome. There seems to be a lot of uncertainty in putting epoxy coating on the floor. So, my garage floor will stay cement, no coating.
Bob

 

[KentT]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( So, my garage floor will stay cement, no coating.
Bob
)</font>
I suggest that you do put the typical concrete sealer on it while it is fresh and clean. That will prevent oil and dirt stains. That sealer isn't permanent, but can be renewed with a new application, similar to putting "Thompson's Water Seal" on a wooden deck...

 

[drm]

I will second the floor sealer recommendation. Use a penetrating sealer that penetrates 1/4" minimum that is oil and gasoline resistant. A commercial grade product will last 5 years under hard use and 7 to 10 under light use. Clean & recoat when the water no longer beads on it.

I have used Enviroseal Siloxane (Obsolete with very high VOC's) (Current water based Enviroseal Products) and Sonnebourne Silane sealers and have had good luck with them. You need to get them from a TRUE Builders supply yard. NOT Home Depot, Lowes, etc. They will likely want cash if you are not a contractor with an account.

Be sure to get, read, and understand the MSDS before using. These are products intended for professionals that use them regularly. Some are very dangerous and require special protection. All require a well ventilated area. It is worth the hassle.

...Derek

 

[Doc_Bob]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I will second the floor sealer recommendation. Use a penetrating sealer that penetrates 1/4" minimum that is oil and gasoline resistant. A commercial grade product will last 5 years under hard use and 7 to 10 under light use. Clean & recoat when the water no longer beads on it.

I have used Enviroseal Siloxane (Obsolete with very high VOC's) (Current water based Enviroseal Products) and Sonnebourne Silane sealers and have had good luck with them. You need to get them from a TRUE Builders supply yard. NOT Home Depot, Lowes, etc. They will likely want cash if you are not a contractor with an account.

Be sure to get, read, and understand the MSDS before using. These are products intended for professionals that use them regularly. Some are very dangerous and require special protection. All require a well ventilated area. It is worth the hassle.

...Derek
)</font>

Concrete sealer it is! I will do some more investigating, but (assuming cost is not an issue) looks like a great choice. How "slippery" is it when water is on it?
Bob

 

[drm]

Bob,

Not very slippery. The water will bead on the surface but the sealer is a penetrating sealer meaning that it soaks into the surface and does not leave a film like Thompson’s Water Seal and similar products. If your concrete is double troweled to a slick sheen then it could be a problem.

How slippery is the surface now? It will only be a little more slippery if it is a troweled finish. You will not notice a difference if it is a broom finish.

...Derek

 

[RipTide]

Last year I moved into a new house and I wanted to expoy my garage floor before moving in my shop tools. I did it the recommended way, etching, priming, and painting the expoxy. I even hired a pro to do it. Looked great for a month or so and then started peeling and chipping. A few months later I decided to epoxy the floor in the utility room right off the gargae, but I did it differently. I did not etch the floor, just cleaned it good and then I primed the floor with Waterlock paint like you get at Home Depot. After letting that dry I painted the floor with the expoxy paint. Not a single chip, bubble or area of peeling even after a year. When I get around to it I am going to strip up the original and redo it with the Waterlock paint as a primer. At least in my case that way has worked better than I could have hoped for.