Equipment shed - I remembered I don't know how to build one...

[s219]

I did a 25' span here with two LVLs on the front. 1.75"x12" each, sistered together. Actual size you need depends on your snow load and how much is carried by that front beam. But it's feasible to run long spans with LVLs.

 

[arizona98tj]

The summer of 2020, my youngest son and I put up a 12x40 loafing shed with a 2' overhang. It was our first scratch-built building and I was happy with how it turned out. It needs to last me about another 15 years and by then, I probably won't be using much of what is stored in it. I'm confident it will go longer than that. It's already too small....no one told me my nephew was going to park his 4 wheeler in it.

 

[3Ts]

On your roof - if you do shingles you'll need a minimum of 3/12 pitch. Metal roofing can be shallower.

The shorter your spans the smaller the beams need to be (and less costly) but your 40' access wall should have them spaced as wide as you can afford. The sides with the tin on the walls can have the posts (or studs) much closer. The tin is typically in 3' widths and can be overlapped every 1' and as long as you need it. You will need girts on your walls to attach the tin to. I have a steel building but if you use tin, it should be the same as for wood - my girts are 4' apart.

For long spans solid wood is probably not available so that leaves LVL beams or trusses. I suggest you talk to a truss manufacturer. I've found them to be reasonably priced and can get them engineered, built, and delivered for less than what the wood would cost me.

 

[ljjhouser]

I started by wanting to build my own trusses. Thought I would save me money. But I found I could special order certified trusses from Menards cheaper that I could buy lumber. They were ready for pick up on a week.

 

[newbury]

Try browsing
Cheap Sheds
His plans only go up to 16x32 but there's a lot of good info on the site.
In one place he recommends "A trip to Harbor Freight for a boat wench"
Typo?

 

[riptides]

Over the years I have gotten really good at building quick/cost effective and durable sheds and run ins.

My latest was a 12X36 run in, in a back pasture.

I used the standard lumber dimensions and if I am successful, don't cut anything, anywhere. That included metal roofing. I start with a 12X12 frame and just keep adding on. I don't go by plans, and the size is determined by the SO. I am just the day labor guy. I use screws for everything.

This is the fourth run in on the property. Even with the "lumber" price gouging, this particular shed probably saved me a couple of grand.

I don't go by plans, and the size is determined by the SO. I am just the day labor guy. I use screws for everything.

I only bled once on this shed, so it was a good build.

 

[ponytug]

@riptides I would love to see more photos of the shed farther along/completed. I'm curious how you keep the horses off the metal sheets, and the length of your pressure treated posts for scale.

All the best,

Peter

 

[riptides]

See attached. Our horses are pretty docile. No kick boards in this one. If needed, they can span the inside since the posts are 12 foot on center.

Wife says should be at least 12 foot high in the front and 10 - 11 high in the back. I am six two and really don't like ladders, so this is as high as I go. Was a one person job, since it is out in the middle of no where, volunteers are scarce. LOL.

@riptides I would love to see more photos of the shed farther along/completed. I'm curious how you keep the horses off the metal sheets, and the length of your pressure treated posts for scale.

All the best,

Peter

 

[Frankenkubota]

Also I have a co-worker that is clearing land and has a bunch of large cedars that I might be able to use as posts. Would that be a good idea?

i've been saving my cedars. i find many down and in really good shape so i save them.

Once in a while i have to cut one although i don't like to.

mine are all between 4 inches and 8-10 inches.

i'm gonna try to build a huge tee pee if i can figure it out.

 

[riptides]

I have an old run in on the back property. Circa 1920. Original "tree cedar" posts and Tin roof.

Still standing. The various additions made to it over the years, barely so.

You can see the notches where the support beams were cut into the "tree"/post.

No bug damage either, or very little. The pressure treated wood around it....like mulch in spots.

If you have a chance to save a cedar post for construction, yeah, do it.

i've been saving my cedars. i find many down and in really good shape so i save them.

Once in a while i have to cut one although i don't like to.

mine are all between 4 inches and 8-10 inches.

i'm gonna try to build a huge tee pee if i can figure it out.