Ever Ad a Coolant reservoir to their ASV RC100 radiator?

[Bob Rooks]

If I add an overflow will it work? They only cost $10

Yes, it will solve your "overflow" problem and keep air out of the cooling system. Keeping air out of the cooling system will also help in bringing the temperature down. Air inside of an engine block and around cylinder liners doesn't carry away much heat at all.
Sounds like your cap is ok.
Glad you went with the Evans coolant, it's supposed to be the very best.:thumbsup:

FWIW: My Mustang 2040 came with a coolant recovery reservoir from the factory. I added one to the dozer.

 

[McCaskey]

Oil peaks at 185 degrees during the heaviest of usage. The factory switch is set at 225 degrees according to the ASV parts manual.

When not mulching, it averages 130 degrees.

 

[tuckinlugz]

I added the recovery container. It didn't help any. I did notice that the top of the fan shroud has damaged weather strip and is warped creating a gap and blowing a lot of air straight up instead of through the radiator. I am going to try to put a piece of angle iron on it to hod it down and see if that helps.

 

[Bob Rooks]

I added the recovery container. It didn't help any.
I assume you mean that it solved the loosing coolant issue but not the excessive heat?

I did notice that the top of the fan shroud has damaged weather strip and is warped creating a gap and blowing a lot of air straight up instead of through the radiator. I am going to try to put a piece of angle iron on it to hold it down and see if that helps.
That will probably help a little, but not noticeably. You might need to install that optional electric fan for a total cure. Let us know how it turns out.

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[tuckinlugz]

Yea that's what I meant.

I have the Evans coolant that I bought, but I have not put it in yet. Do you think that would help? I would really like to stay around 200 degrees.

 

[Bob Rooks]

The Evans coolant may give you a few degrees of decrease, but it's main advantage is not boiling off at high temperatures like the glycol mixes will, releases air quicker, prevents hot spots and cavitation around liners, and keeps the cooling system cleaner. Also, make sure your fan belt is tight.

 

[Timark80]

Did you replace the thermostat? Another problem is the "stopleak" stuff.It will partially clog the system.

 

[Robbie Hegwood]

Yes the hyd oil cooler and the radiator are two seperate coolers but the are one unit, so you have heat transfer.
I think your missing the bigger problem and if you can isolate which system is the main culperate then I think you can start to fix the problem.
First, on your hyd temp. It needs to be below 180 degrees. If your cooling system can not maintain 180 or below it creates a condition I call "run away". If the temp goes above 180 you can not control it, it will just keep climbing till an alarm goes off or causes damage.
Second the engine cooling system. I though they should run below 200. Not sure and I know each engine is different. Double check what your engine coolant target temp should be.
Now as you might have seen the cooling "problem" is already brewing. If your hyd side is trying to keep the temp below 180, the engine side is running at 200, the head transfer will heat up the hyd side till it reachs 200. As the hyd side temp raises from the heat created by the engine side, the engine side raises. and back and forth. I bet the engine temp should be @180. This would make them work together.
So, now you know why the dedicated machine's run seperate, indipendant systems. Now your job is to try and figure out which one is getting hotter first. You could take a cheep meter and put a probe on each outlet and monitor temp. I suspect your "radiator" is clogged with dried up dirt in the corner's. I suggest removing the cooler and washing with a high psi pressure washer. I like the thermostat change as well.
I bet with this info and if you perform some of these test you'll find where your problem is coming from. These little machine's are a pain!!
I was in Pensacola Wed. Small world.

 

[Bob Rooks]

It's obvious that the prime mover (engine) will heat up first and will try to run the hottest because it it the primary energy source.

 

[tuckinlugz]

I am still working on this problem. My coolant temp slowly goes up past 220 and I have to idle for 5 mins to get it back down.... repeat.

I got a laser temp gauge and the hydraulic temp never goes over 190 when the engine coolant is over 220.

So it seems that my hydraulic cooling is sufficient. I know people ad the oil coolers for the overheating issues but it seems to me that my hydro side is fine but my engine coolant is not sufficient to keep up. I just can't help thinking that I need to ad an additional radiator for engine coolant. This way I would have more volume of coolant and also more heat transfer. The question is where to put anything and how to not rip it off in the woods. My a/c unit is above the cab so I don't know where to put it..... even if I added a hydo cooler I have the same space issues. Anyone ever added a radiator?