Egon
Epic Contributor
I have a flanged bearing bolted to the bar. A 5/8 inch rod is welded to a steel plate which in turn is bolted to the sliding portion of the guide. Wooden spacers are the used to set the width of cut or the whole system can be moved over. The spacers are held in place by two nuts on the end of the rod.
The saw can rotate on the 5/8 rod . A shallow guide slot can be cut in the log on the first pass. This will help keep the cut straight and imakes it easier to handle the saw.
In the picture you see a piece of junk crotch maple that has been cut with the sides at 90 degree angles.
The saw is a Husky 365 - 24in. bar. rip chain.
It very simple and does work for my purposses. It can be used on wood where it is or that does not meet dimensions for real sawmills.
The main guide is made of 3/4 in. plywood and so designed that addition lengths can be bolted on.
It may just be a complicated version of an edger!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Egon /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
The saw can rotate on the 5/8 rod . A shallow guide slot can be cut in the log on the first pass. This will help keep the cut straight and imakes it easier to handle the saw.
In the picture you see a piece of junk crotch maple that has been cut with the sides at 90 degree angles.
The saw is a Husky 365 - 24in. bar. rip chain.
It very simple and does work for my purposses. It can be used on wood where it is or that does not meet dimensions for real sawmills.
The main guide is made of 3/4 in. plywood and so designed that addition lengths can be bolted on.
It may just be a complicated version of an edger!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Egon /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
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