JimP
Silver Member
- Joined
- Nov 21, 2004
- Messages
- 237
- Location
- southern New England
- Tractor
- Kubota L5460HSTC; Volvo ECR88 excavator; Dresser TD9H dozer; Bandit RM990 chipper (sold)
Hi. I have been clearing land in Conn with a Volvo ECR88 (18000 lb) excavator. If I had to start over I would look for 12-16 ton excavator with a blade (blades are less common on the full size excavators). The 9 ton excavator works well but there are limits to lift capacity (can not lift some stumps until I rake dirt off), reach (always looking to work without moving and further away from the cab) and stability (capacity is different with blade up vs blade down and up front vs over side). If you are looking to build burn piles reach and capacity at full extension with blade up will be important. Once you get the hang of the controls running a 9 ton or a larger excavator will be no different, they are very precise (and fun!). The only difference will be how much physical room you need to get into work position and tail swing clearance (zero tails are great - no swing interference but maintenance is harder as everything is crammed closer). If you will be selling when you are done look for machines that are popular in your area. In used excavators condition trumps most everything else as repairs are very expensive. The more common the machine in your area the more choices you will have in finding persons to maintain and repair.
3 inch trees you may be able to pull out stump and all. 10 inch probably not. I started by cutting the tree down, sectioning the tree and digging the stump. Stump digging time after dropping the tree varied but for larger sumps it could be 20 to 30 minutes. Now I dig three sides of the tree and push the tree over with the excavator using the undug side as a hinge. Less than 5 minutes and the tree is down, with a stump facing me. As a bonus I don't worry about tree lean and can drop the tree in any convenient direction. Chainsaw work is easier wth the tree on its side. CAUTION. Watch out for dead tops and widow makers. This type of work can be hard on excavators (and I have the broken windshield to prove it). Look for an excavator with a demolition screen and falling objets protection or one that has mounts for you to mount the screens. Also, the tipped stump is under tension and wants to flop back into the hole once you cut the trunk.
There are 3 types of thumbs. The simplest mounts the thump parts on one plate and the plate is mounted to the stick. This type has the least range of motion (points where the bucket and thumb meet) but is the cheapest. A main pin thumb pivots the thumb around a bucket pin and welds only the cylinder mount to the stick. This style has a better range of motion but is more expensive. A progressive thumb mounts to the main pin but includes a linkage to give the best range of motion. The progressive is also the most expensive and seems to be less popular on the east coast. I would look for a pin mount or progressive thumb for the range of motion. Try and make sure the thumb teeth will mesh with the bucket teeth. This helps when trying to grab smaller items.
My excavator was already pumped for auxiliary 2 way hydraulics. I had a Geith bucket so I mounted a Geith pin mount thumb. I had to adjust the auxiliary circuit pressure so that the bucket can overpower the thumb. I am happy with the Geith combo as the thumb and bucket teeth mesh and the thumb folds in tight and clears the stick and boom in use. Cost for thumb, welding and hydraulic connector lines was about 4K. If you have to add the auxiliary hydraulics cost will be much higher.
After using a hydraulic thumb for a couple years I can't imagine using a fixed thumb. With the hydraulic you can adjust the grab point to pick up anything from basketball sized rocks to small trees to large stumps. Large stumps can be tricky to grab and the hydraulic thumb allows much more flexibility in where you can grab them.
Good luck and be careful! Jim
3 inch trees you may be able to pull out stump and all. 10 inch probably not. I started by cutting the tree down, sectioning the tree and digging the stump. Stump digging time after dropping the tree varied but for larger sumps it could be 20 to 30 minutes. Now I dig three sides of the tree and push the tree over with the excavator using the undug side as a hinge. Less than 5 minutes and the tree is down, with a stump facing me. As a bonus I don't worry about tree lean and can drop the tree in any convenient direction. Chainsaw work is easier wth the tree on its side. CAUTION. Watch out for dead tops and widow makers. This type of work can be hard on excavators (and I have the broken windshield to prove it). Look for an excavator with a demolition screen and falling objets protection or one that has mounts for you to mount the screens. Also, the tipped stump is under tension and wants to flop back into the hole once you cut the trunk.
There are 3 types of thumbs. The simplest mounts the thump parts on one plate and the plate is mounted to the stick. This type has the least range of motion (points where the bucket and thumb meet) but is the cheapest. A main pin thumb pivots the thumb around a bucket pin and welds only the cylinder mount to the stick. This style has a better range of motion but is more expensive. A progressive thumb mounts to the main pin but includes a linkage to give the best range of motion. The progressive is also the most expensive and seems to be less popular on the east coast. I would look for a pin mount or progressive thumb for the range of motion. Try and make sure the thumb teeth will mesh with the bucket teeth. This helps when trying to grab smaller items.
My excavator was already pumped for auxiliary 2 way hydraulics. I had a Geith bucket so I mounted a Geith pin mount thumb. I had to adjust the auxiliary circuit pressure so that the bucket can overpower the thumb. I am happy with the Geith combo as the thumb and bucket teeth mesh and the thumb folds in tight and clears the stick and boom in use. Cost for thumb, welding and hydraulic connector lines was about 4K. If you have to add the auxiliary hydraulics cost will be much higher.
After using a hydraulic thumb for a couple years I can't imagine using a fixed thumb. With the hydraulic you can adjust the grab point to pick up anything from basketball sized rocks to small trees to large stumps. Large stumps can be tricky to grab and the hydraulic thumb allows much more flexibility in where you can grab them.
Good luck and be careful! Jim