Exhaust Leak

[ym2610]

my 2610 has a exhaust leak at the head, I know it just need gaskets, but my question is will the studs break off, they look very rusty on the ends, has anyone took their exhaust manifold off and did the studs break, do I need to have the manifold surfaced, or and most cases will just the gasket fix the problem. Thanks Robert

 

[Egon]

Both questions will be answered when you remove the head.

Do you have the drill and taps for removing a broken stud?

Egon

 

[ym2610]

Yeah your right, I wish I had thought of that. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif LOL

 

[normde2001]

No one can possibly tell you whether the studs will break, or if the manifold needs to be re-surfaced, but I would soak the studs in "PB Blaster" for a couple of days before trying to remove them.

 

[chriswheeler]

I would get the tractor hot first, stop the engine, spray the studs and nuts with rust solvent, and let it sit like that for a couple of days. Start the tractor and get the engine warm again, spray with rust solvent again, and with the engine sill warm, try to loosen the bolts. Some parts that are rusted come apart much better hot due to the expansion of the steel with heat. Might still break the studs but your chances are much better this way than cold.
Chris

 

[ym2610]

Thanks Chris, I hadn't thought about that, sounds like a plan. Thanks Egon and yes I have the drill and tap if they do break, if not some real good shops around, but I did like your answer. Thanks Norm, I know it sounded like a dumb question, but what I was wanting to know if any of the shops that work on them or anybody else has had problems, like if you call me and ask about a quick disconnect fitting for the heater hose on a small block Chevy and some V6's, I can tell you yes its going to break and how to get it out, but thanks anyway, any info is good info. Robert

 

[California]

For a first attempt I would try just replacing the gasket, perhaps using some hi-temp gasket cement. It might last many years before you need to take the manifold in and get it surfaced.

FWIW, on mine the manifold bolts unscrewed easily like new equipment despite looking old and rusty.

 

[HGM]

I almost hate to recomend it..........

If you have a sealing problem at the manifold. A good silicone spread "thinly" on the gasket will help to make up for the imprefections..... Just please, if you do this, follow the "little" recomendation. I cant tell you how many components I have seen that have been sealed on with 2-3 tubes of orange silicone /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif(can you guss the brand). Some guys just believe that if a little is good a whole lot must be great..

Just for recerfence, the best silicone I have ever used is Ford Diesel Silicone, I Forget the part number but the parts guy will know what it is. It comes in a caulking gun type tube. This stuff is used for everything and will seal everything. Dont get it on anything you dont want it on, including your skin. Its tough to get off. If you over do it, you wont get the parts apart again, so just skim it. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif I have used it on anything from exhaust pipes(for a quick fix) to gluing things together, shoot you could probably build a boat with it and trust it to cross the Atlantic /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[ym2610]

Thanks California, I had thought about that. HGM I'm a Chevy guy I can just hear the Ford guy, but if it work a can listen to them make fun of me for using Ford products, if I don't have to do it again it will be well worth it. already had to use a Ford brand antigell, local walmart never had any thing smaller than a gallon of power service. anyway Thanks for the info everybody. Robert

 

[Normmm]

I have replace the manafold on my 2020. and have worked on many exhaust systems on cars and tractors. Brush the stud bolts with a wire bruch and then use some pb blster if you like. The studs on my tractor came off well. They screw in to the head just like a bolt. If the nut will not come off it will screw out just like a bolt. If it seems too require too much tork to remove it use a hand impact wrench and tap it a few times. Unless the tractor has set in the rain with the hood off you should have no problem.

 

[ChuckT]

You guys really know how to ruin my day! /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

I need to replace the muffler on our 1510D (that tree reached right out & broke the stack off the muffler! it did, really it did). Silly me, I thought the nuts would come right off. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Oh well I needed some PB Blaster for ... something or other /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

cvt

 

[ym2610]

Hi ChuckT, sorry to hear that, could it be welded back on with a mig, or a temp fix might be, if it didn't break flush, is get a muffler adapter from a parts store and clamp or tack it in place. just a thought. and Thanks normmm I was wondering if anybody has had to do it. Robert

 

[ChuckT]

Snapped off clean, & right at the weld!

Probably could find a MIG welder locaaly to repair but by the time I had hunted one down & convinced (!) them to take on a small job ... well it seemed to me an R&R is quicker and cheaper.

Right now i'm oiling-up the chain saw and eyeing the tree in question. It's a Mimosa, an "exotic" (not-native), and not long for this world. 'Can't even use it for kindling!

cvt

 

[ym2610]

your right about the welders, even around here we only have one guy that likes small jobs, he says he makes a lot of money on them, set price one hour labor, even if it only takes a few minutes, but its worth it, hes a expert welder, fixes what I weld /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gifLOL. and I also have mimosa trees, a lot of them, and there going to get pulled up or cut down come spring, like you said not even good kindling. oh well hope you get your muffler fixed and your tree cut,I have a mig, if your ever on your tractor and pass through Stevenson stop by and I will weld it for you, than we can take it to the guy I was telling you about. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gifLOL........Robert /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[ChuckT]

Hmm, Road trip to 'bama ... wife worked at Huntsville & always wanted to go back, I wonder if I could tempt her, hmm, hmm, hmm ! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[Eddie]

Will be in central Florida for a couple of months New Years Eve.

 

[ym2610]

Huntsville is only about a hour away from me, could tell her you need a part and Fredricks is the only one that has, and they won't ship it for some reason, but of course that would be a big lie, but if it work for a road trip might be worth it, just kidding, Eddie said hes coming your way, he might have a mig that he carries with him everywhere LOL. sorry Eddie just had to volunteer you for the job . Robert

 

[ChuckT]

Well all I really need to do is hint - "Whadya think, let's go to ..." and the bags are coming out (!) but right at the moment some "elves" are working on a new MH and horse barn. So major $ will be on hold for a bit. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

cvt

 

[jimmysisson]

Did you ever get that exhaust apart? Another trick you probably know is to just slightly tighten something you want to loosen, maybe 1/8 turn, then reverse and back out the stud or bolt. Helps sometimes.
Jim

 

[ym2610]

Thanks Jim, yes I did, Santa brought me the parts I needed, she wouldn't tell me from where, so Thanks to the dealer she, I mean Santa got them from, got it put together tonight, got lucky no studs broke /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif, but the manifold did need to be surfaced, the gasket had been blown so long ( I'm guessing) that it had pitted the manifold were its was blown, I guess the hot exhaust just melted it, but anyway took a few suggestion from here, wire brushed the ends of the studs, PB blaster and let it set a few days, nuts came right off, had the manifold surfaced, used some hi temp sealer, right now letting it set or dry how every you would say it, I will know tomorrow if it worked, I don't see why it wouldn't. Thanks again everybody for the tip and suggestions....Robert