Agent Blue
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Mar 14, 2008
- Messages
- 607
Let me be the first to say I am proud of you Jimmy. Step out there where no man has travelled and make your mark. Be adventurous and stack some iron together. It is therapy plus !!!
Nice. Glad you feel comfortable telling the OP to just do it when you know nothing about the circumstances. But then, you've got no skin in the game.
I see you never walked til age 7. Check the alarm clock twice before proceeding with the day. Close your eyes and let the grown ups worry about the crisis. Yes... grind, fit, and weld...... certainly tasks not to be tried by someone not experienced in life. You work in a parts department by chance ? Have a great day and I promise not to dispense information above my head.
Easy, fellas. I did post the question since I was thinking about the whole thing coming apart and spinning around behind my back. The existing inner shaft penetrates the outer portion by about 2-3/4", not enough.
I think I can weld it straight and strong. If the weld fails the piece will still be contained by the outer portion. I'm not certified, but I believe I can make it stick.
Just to make this more complicated, suppose I use a piece of 1" square bar stock for the add-on, since I have some handy. I was thinking of grinding an air-relief notch at the weld end(in the solid) so I wouldn't build up pressure inside the hollow, then filling that in after the piece had cooled some.
Thanks again, Jim
So it sounds like the weld won't be transmitting the full torque as it will never be outside of the outer shaft. As long the weld will stay a couple of inches inside the outer shaft that sounds reasonable to me. Using the solid bar will create a shaft with two torsional stiffnesses, which would cause a stress riser right at the weld, but since the solid side of the weld won't be transmittinging much of the torque it should be okay. Thinking about venting the weld, and containment should it fail, gives me confidence that you know what you're doing. Good luck, and let us know how it goes.Easy, fellas. I did post the question since I was thinking about the whole thing coming apart and spinning around behind my back. The existing inner shaft penetrates the outer portion by about 2-3/4", not enough.
I think I can weld it straight and strong. If the weld fails the piece will still be contained by the outer portion. I'm not certified, but I believe I can make it stick.
Just to make this more complicated, suppose I use a piece of 1" square bar stock for the add-on, since I have some handy. I was thinking of grinding an air-relief notch at the weld end(in the solid) so I wouldn't build up pressure inside the hollow, then filling that in after the piece had cooled some.
Thanks again, Jim
Agri-Supply also has what they call a PTO adapter, but it's actually an extender. Cost is about 20 bucks.
Pto Adapter 1-3/8 X6 Spline Male X 1-3/8X6 Spline Female Pto Adapter
The ones I've seen in TSC didn't have the spring pin lock. They did have a .25" hole drilled through. Those types are for old Ford tractors.
Roy, I have thought about getting one of those to make it easier to hook up PTO implements. Do you think that would be a good idea or would it put too much leverage on the PTO shaft?
Two things to consider:
1) Will adding the extender result in excessive U-joint angles?
2) Will the extender be left on permanently?
I use my extender on one implement, a chipper/shredder. This implement gets used for a few hours 3-4 times a year. I've used it on two tractors so far with no adverse results...although I have read (but no personal experience) that an extender can put more load on the tractor's PTO stubshaft.
So, my opinion...I wouldn't want to use it continuously...only if you need it for a particular implement or implements.