F-150 Valve Tappets(?)

Scooby074 · Sep 9, 2009

flusher said:
Thanks for the info, Chris.

I ask because I'm shopping for a one-ton flat bed truck, F350 or equivalent, 1995-2000 vintage. These typically have well over 100K miles on them which make me wonder if this sparkplug blowout problem is relate to high milage. Or is it just due to screwups in replacing and tightening plugs?

Researching this problem I discovered that undertightening the plugs can cause blowout too since the loose plug apparently hammers the threads in the aluminum head causing them to fail.

Its actually really easy to do. Torque spec is ~110 INCH pounds. Plus ford says that if you go over one time, you likely pooched it so make sure you have a good torque wrench., Its really important with these engines. Very Common problem, Timesert has a special kit thats the preferred method of repair. Helicoils arent great in this application.

Another issue is plugs seizing in the heads in the 2004 + Tritons (so much for the vaulted redesign

) This is so common that Ford has a custom tool to try and remove the broken plugs. If memory serves its like $600 for a one or3 time use / tool

(there are aftermarket ones that are cheaper now, like $100) http://hubpages.com/hub/SPARK-PLUG-REMOVAL-INSTRUCTIONS--Ford--54Liter-3Valve-Engine

The manifold is another issue to check thoroughly. Dealerships usually wont mess with trying to drill the broken studs out, and like to remove the head ($2000++) Its VERY tight between the frame rail and the head. I had to buy a right angle air drll (yay new tool

so i guess thats good) . Some times the head is so erroded from the leaking exhaust gas that a replacement is needed $$$$$$$.

Ford has a Bulletin on these defective studs, Stainless is the recommended replacement, however our dealer had no idea about this bulletin and only stocked the steel studs which are 1/3 the price

SO I went and bought metric stainless bolts and cut to proper length to use.

And ours wasnt the only one with these problems. Ive worked on several that had these issues

CurlyDave · Sep 10, 2009

I checked the 2000 F150 manual

https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenan...ls/results.asp

It calls for 5W20 super premium motor oil.
Same as my 2001 F150. My Ford dealer handles my lube needs and refills with Motorcraft 5W20 QSP oil.

Well, steal my lunch and call me hungry.

I was absolutely certain it wanted 5W-30.

Many thanks to you. No wonder it doesn't like the 5W-40.

Well, it is back to Wally World first thing in the morning to trade in the 5W-30 I got for 5W-20.

I have to make it back to the SF Bay area, so I won't be able to change it until after the trip, but at least I can get the oil in tax-free Oregon.

Weather prediction is for 90-100 degrees along the route, so it will have to live with the 5W-40 until I get there. I need to make it through San Francisco before rush hour.

Scooby074 · Sep 10, 2009

You should go back to Mobil1 .

Ive seen the problem (in my own vehicle) persist when using conventionals. M1 really made a difference for me (not trying to start a brand war, just experience).

If the noise persists (hopefully not) have a look for some of the other issues, like leaky manifolds, especially on the passenger side.

Diamondpilot · Sep 10, 2009

I am still not convinced your truck takes 5W20. If you are in a remote area I would get both 5W20 and 5W30 then check the manual before you change it...

I know the online manual posted says 5W20 but I am almost certain this generation was 5W30 but I have been wrong once before. Anyway, buy both oils if unsure then take back the one you do not use just too be safe.

Chris

Eagleview · Sep 10, 2009

Spark plugs in Alloy cylinder heads should always be changed when the engine is cold . They can pull a thread upon removal whilst hot .

CurlyDave · Sep 10, 2009

Diamondpilot, you are right. I am now in CA and have the paper manual -- it says 5W-30.

At least the receipt hasn't escaped yet and I can take them back to the local WallyWorld and exchange the two gallons.

I was in OR and an now in CA so I have to pay 9.25% sales tax. While it isn't a killer on any one item, it adds up in a hurry.

Spark plugs in Alloy cylinder heads should always be changed when the engine is cold . They can pull a thread upon removal whilst hot .

I have always use a small amount of anti-seize on spark plugs -- works wonders for ease of removal, and torque specs are supposed to be measure with lightly lubricated threads.

CurlyDave · Sep 12, 2009

Last night I changed back to Mobil 1 5W-30 and after about 1/4 mile today, the difference was amazing.

The engine is almost quiet enough that I could heard a mouse dropping...