F-220

[nocny drwal]

Thank you all for your support :thumbsup:
Today I did check this "device". It really is a heating element in the intake. Before I checked it I had cleaned its connection and tighten it (it was a bit loose). Right now I don't know if this device had or hadn't worked before I cleaned the wire.
This day was warm. It was +1 and my yanmar started instantly. so I have to wait for another cold weather to find out if I really solved the problem.
So could this device really be a "glow plug" ? To be honest I'm a bit confused I'm almost 100% sure that there is no other glow plug installed. I just couldn't found one So this thing is installed instead ?
Also I have checked the battery this morning. Like I said before its: 12v 74ah 680 en unit. But after recharging it has only 500EN. What do you think guys? Is it enough?
Right now it is too dark to make a video. I'll make one tomorrow morning so you could see better how my yanmar starts (or doesn't )

 

[winston1]

Thank you all for your support :thumbsup:
Today I did check this "device". It really is a heating element in the intake. Before I checked it I had cleaned its connection and tighten it (it was a bit loose). Right now I don't know if this device had or hadn't worked before I cleaned the wire.
This day was warm. It was +1 and my yanmar started instantly. so I have to wait for another cold weather to find out if I really solved the problem.
So could this device really be a "glow plug" ? To be honest I'm a bit confused I'm almost 100% sure that there is no other glow plug installed. I just couldn't found one So this thing is installed instead ?
Also I have checked the battery this morning. Like I said before its: 12v 74ah 680 en unit. But after recharging it has only 500EN. What do you think guys? Is it enough?
Right now it is too dark to make a video. I'll make one tomorrow morning so you could see better how my yanmar starts (or doesn't )

I wouldn't call the device a glow plug, I would call it a pre heater. Made to accomplish the same feat. I think it took the place of a normal glowplug. I would believe proper operation of it would be to turn the key to the left for a few seconds, possibly till the light goes off, then proceed with the starting procedure. This gives the element time to heat up. I am no battery wizard but from the numbers it would seem to indicate your battery is not up to par.

 

[Gary Sweat]

I wouldn't call the device a glow plug, I would call it a pre heater. Made to accomplish the same feat. I think it took the place of a normal glowplug. I would believe proper operation of it would be to turn the key to the left for a few seconds, possibly till the light goes off, then proceed with the starting procedure. This gives the element time to heat up. I am no battery wizard but from the numbers it would seem to indicate your battery is not up to par.

I wonder if one of those gizmo's could be adapted to the 2 cylinders? Might have to cut a hole in the hood but hey, good excuse for a hood scoop

 

[nocny drwal]

So there are no glow plugs and the only thing that is responsible for preheating is that "pre-heater". And if it works correctly it seems that the battery is the only thing that causes this trouble.

There is another thing I'd like to ask. I'm not able to rise my 3 point lift all the way up. The lever has a little blockade which can be easily removed. The point is that guy who had sold me this tractor said not to remove it. Otherwise it could damage the hydraulic system. He said that it has something to do with front end loader. I'll take a photo tomorrow so you could see this locking thing

 

[winston1]

I have been browsing around and came across a Yanmar air heater used on boats evidently but some fellow had adapted it to an old Nissan diesel pickup. I'll paste the source and the thread. Might or might not be interesting to you. I suspicion it is very similar to your air heater.Ships Store -Sailboat Engine Parts and Boat Parts-Torresen Marine NissanDiesel :: View topic - Retired Pauly's 1987 D21-J SD25 KC

 

[clemsonfor]

I'm still not able to find that glow plug on my tractor. Is it possible that it is really an option? But I suppose if it was an option there wouldn't be this light indicator. In my case there is that light so I think there should be also a glow plug somewhere.
That thing which I marked is not a glow plug. Today I managed to take it out and thats what it looks like:

When I had removed it, a coolant liquid started to leak.
Also I have found this:

It looks like heating system for an air. It is connected to the air pipe from an air filter. I didn't check if it works correctly. I'll do this tomorrow.
So could anyone tell me where that glow plug should be? In which part of an engine should I look for it?

I was going to say what some beat me to. I thing that rubber boot in the lower part of the picture may have wires in it, you can see a nut or shaft extending from it into the throat of the intake, i would assume that this is to create power and therefore resistance to heat those fins up.

 

[clemsonfor]

Thank you all for your support :thumbsup:
Today I did check this "device". It really is a heating element in the intake. Before I checked it I had cleaned its connection and tighten it (it was a bit loose). Right now I don't know if this device had or hadn't worked before I cleaned the wire.
This day was warm. It was +1 and my yanmar started instantly. so I have to wait for another cold weather to find out if I really solved the problem.
So could this device really be a "glow plug" ? To be honest I'm a bit confused I'm almost 100% sure that there is no other glow plug installed. I just couldn't found one So this thing is installed instead ?
Also I have checked the battery this morning. Like I said before its: 12v 74ah 680 en unit. But after recharging it has only 500EN. What do you think guys? Is it enough?
Right now it is too dark to make a video. I'll make one tomorrow morning so you could see better how my yanmar starts (or doesn't )

We may need Neat1500 or someone else who totally understands the metric system to help with the battery, the only think i understand is the 12v and i guess the 74ah , is for amp hours. The 680 must be cranking amps, but i usually see cranking amps and cold cranking amps and we need the cold cranking amps or cca. I think it should be in the range of that 680 but am not sure what mine is?

 

[Gary Sweat]

We may need Neat1500 or someone else who totally understands the metric system to help with the battery, the only think i understand is the 12v and i guess the 74ah , is for amp hours. The 680 must be cranking amps, but i usually see cranking amps and cold cranking amps and we need the cold cranking amps or cca. I think it should be in the range of that 680 but am not sure what mine is?

I put one of the Optima gel cell batteries on my 1900 and it has been working great. Keeps on cranking. They have 3 different types and the yellow top battery is a deep cycle. Not as much cranking power but will put out more amps longer. I have the red one. Higher cranking power but won't hold it for as long as the yellow. Supposedly better in cold weather but just how cold I don't know.

 

[Neat 1500]

By the sound of it she is a 12v 74aH which is its reserve capacity and 680cca. if this battery is in good condition it should be more than adequate to crank that sucker over with almost frozen oil in it i only have a 380cca in my 1500 but we dont get that cold here, 3 deg C would be the lowest and mine will fire up with the small battery. i did have an optima in mine for a while but i put it back in my Landcruiser.i just put a 400cca in the YM14 i bought but she dont have a reg so it recieves no charge. have you had the battery tested to ensure it is good?( i think by your charge result it my be on its way out-the cold is a good test for a battery) also check to see that the heater element is actually heating prior to crank and continues to heat shortly after start up.

 

[nocny drwal]

This "heating thing" seems to work fine. I have burned my finger so I'm sure it works :thumbsup:
Indeed there is a wire in this rubber boot. Right now it is a bit too warm to tell if I have solved the problem. Like you can see the engine starts immediately. The temperature outside is +3 C (as hot as in Australia ).
Also you can see this little "lock" on my lever. Why is it there? Any idea?

YouTube - yanmar tractor cold start

 

[winston1]

I had that exact lock deal on my YM2002, I removed it and made one I could slide up and down so I could set how high I wanted to lift. My book doesn't say anything about the purpose of it. How about swiveling it out of the way and with tractor running "slowly" raise handle past it and see what happens. Nothing on mine except the lift goes higher. As long as your system doesn't begin to overpressure I can't see how raising it past there could hurt. As far as your starting goes, I believe everything is good. In my opinion you are going to need a strong battery without a compression release. I'm not sure where it is you are energizing the heating element. Is the middle light the one that goes with it? Just didn't seem you had to wait long enough for it to heat up before busting off.

 

[nocny drwal]

Yes, it is that middle one. Right now the temperature is high, so this light turns off quickly.

The question is: is there any possibility of damaging the hydraulic system by rising this leaver above that lock? The joystick and the hydraulic pomp leaks a bit. It isn't something serious but you can see some red drops (hydraulic fluid). The guy who had sold me this yanmar told me not to remove this lock because it may damage the hydraulic system.

 

[winston1]

I can't guarantee anything from where I'm at but I would not be afraid to slowly move the lever back while listening for over pressuring and engine pull. Are there any implements on the back that might hit something if the lift goes higher? The red fluid sounds like automatic transmission fluid which has been deemed as good for colder climates. As far as your cranking goes, I don't know just how cold it gets there but you may have to consider adding a block heater or magnetic heater to assist some.

 

[clemsonfor]

This lock may be to use with the factory tiller. (i dont have one) But they appear that with the factory bracket they attach kind of odd and maybe will hit the seat or wheels, if that lock is not in position. It is obviously designed to be moved, thats why there is another hole, yanmar would not have designed a tractor , as far as im concerned, that would have a little "easily moved stop" that if moved would damage the hydraulics if moved. I think they would have just limited travel to that position where the stop is if it would damage it with out having it in. Like i said its probably designed to be moved out of the way with a dish harrow or cutter of some sort. I too wont gaurentee it but i really dont think it will hurt.

 

[nocny drwal]

Here is another video showing cold start. Today is -4 deg. C. At the first time the jumper box is not plugged in. You can see how the battery light (first from left) fades away during cranking. When the jumper box is connected it seems cranking is a bit faster. Still the light fades away and still yanmar refuses to start. It took four more times to start the engine (second video)

Right now I'm sure the preheating system works fine so it can't be the reason. I'd say it is dead battery Yesterday it was fully charged.

YouTube - Yanmar -4 cold start with jumper box

YouTube - yanmar f 220 and jumper box

 

[winston1]

No doubt, engine is not turning fast enough for a good crank. Backing up a bit, I'm sure you have cleaned all you battery connections ruling out bad connections. Right? Thick oil makes turning much more difficult. Block heater of some sort would help but you no doubt need more cranking amps. In that weather you are going to need the highest output battery you can fit in there. At least that is my opinion. Did you try slowly raising the lift handle past the stop?

 

[clemsonfor]

Did not watch you last posted video, but if you have to have a jumper box connected your battery is old and weak. As winston said a oil pan heater will thin the oil allowing it to crank faster. I would get a new battery, you will be amazed at how much faster it will spin. My truck battery is old and going and this mourning, almost did not crank in the cold. If its 70F there is no problem, older batteries get weak and cant hold thier charge as long or as much of a charge. The cold will show a bad battery fast.

 

[nocny drwal]

According to this video:
YouTube - Kubota Battery Basics
the 850 cold cranking amps is minimum. So if i have only 680 EN ( I have found out that EN stand for "European standard" and it is the same as CCA) Should I look for something bigger? There is some free space around the battery so I think I should be able to fit something bigger.

I have cleaned all battery connections. So that is not what causes that problem. I'd buy this Block heater If it was available. It seems you can't get one here in Poland
I haven't tried to lift it. Maybe tomorrow I'll try to lift it above that lock.

 

[winston1]

Physical size doesn't have to mean better although in some cases it does. Main thing is highest rating you can fit into your space. Sellers of battery's should be able to help you with that.

 

[normde2001]

You need to keep your battery warm. A new fully charged battery at room temp. only has 1/2 charge at 0*F. A shop light and blanket on the battery works wonders.