F-350 to tractor conversion, PTO, etc ?'s

[txslowpoke]

Thanks for all the tips on Hydraulics, I really would rather go that way. I dont mind spending a few $$ to get it right. thx for the help

 

[pat32rf]

I would question the wisdom of welding or spooling the diffs, why not use the emergency brake cables for separate brakes the way we used to in the old dune buggies? ( You might want to drive this beast on your lawn or hard surfaced driveway at some point and those front universals will have to take a lot of strain)

 

[jmc]

Depending on your attachments, anything more or less anchored to your frame may get a little weird with a suspension system between it and the ground. But if you're just pulling an independent implement, why not?

John

 

[tantoy]

I would urge you to concider a engine mounted hyd. pump because you would have live hyd. If you go with a transmsion PTO pump, you will lose hyd. when you push in the clutch (just like an old ford 9-N tractor).

 

[txslowpoke]

On the PTO driven pump, if you have a bale of hay lifted in transport, push the clutch in to shift gears, will the bale drop? Or lower, then raise back up when the clutch is released?
I ordered a couple books to learn more on the hydraulics, have not got them yet.
The rear differential will be welded to the frame of the truck, no suspension planned. I want to go with atleast some 36" tall mudders, still looking into ring and pinion ratio's to decide on tallest tire I can run and achieve a good pull ratio, (I have the T-19 4spd, synched 1 st gear which is not the lo lo non synched granny gear the T-18 4spd has) plus considering driveshaft angle/ truck frame levelness(is that even a word?) when the rearend is welded in.I am also looking at scrap yards for an old 2-3 ton rear diff off an old street sweeper etc to get a cheap low geared diff. Then all I would need to do is to have the driveshaft modified for the bigger u-joint.I plan on cutting the frame, then subframing the rearend mount higher according to the tire size i go with to keep the the planned 3 point hitch and driveshaft angle in check.
I guess the ultimate would be to go with a air operated locker, plus split the e brake cables on seperate levers.
I was thinkin about adding some tractor puller headers coming out the hood too ..........naaaa that would to redneckish.
For what is worth the bed on this truck is in real good shape, one of the dually fenders has a small crack, no tail gate, plus it has a goosneck ball cut out in it. If interested let me know. Im near Corpus Christi Tx.
Thx again for the help and ideas.

 

[srjones]

On the PTO driven pump, if you have a bale of hay lifted in transport, push the clutch in to shift gears, will the bale drop? Or lower, then raise back up when the clutch is released?

The short answer is no. The valves *should* keep the pressure in check. However, any hydraulicly driven motors will stop until the flow returns. Just like on a tractor...if you lift the loader arms, and then kill the engine, the loader won't drop. (Well it shouldn't if the valves are working correctly )

 

[HGM]

How about adding a second transfer case to give you the low gear? It would give you more control over gear ratio and more flexability on the rear end ratio.. I would think about running the front axle off the front transfer case and the output off the rear.. .. Another benefit of the 2 cases, the dif gears could be stronger.. As your ratio lowers(higher number/lower ratio) the pinion size gets smaller, therefore weaker... For example, the Ford 8.8(too small for your needs) pinion in a 5.14:1 is not much more than 1.5-2" in diameter. It is true that the bush hog or driven implement would stop when you apply the clutch, but if you didnt go with a PTO, this should work... It would also work if you just ran the front off the second case as well along with the PTO.. Is a fairly cheap low gear option..

 

[Timber]

Hi all, lets hit the door running. I have a old f-350 1 ton dually I want to convert into a "tractor" that can pull a small disc for fence lines and food plots. Plus a small bush hog/shredder. I was thinking old rearend pointed down, homemade blade bolted to yoke. Build a cover...... ground speed cutter.
If you guys have any other ideas or tips on the truck I really would like to hear them. I plan on welding the rearend direct to frame, the truck is not going to be streetable. I want to add a hay fork for round bails too, that ought to be fairly simple.
Truck in question is a 1984 F-350, dually, 6.9 diesel/4spd/4.10's open( soon to be welded or spooled) I know my trucks and 4x4's, gearing etc. I am new to the pto's, farm equipment, etc.

This is called a Doodle Bug we had one made out of a 1931 shortened up milk truck with duel wheels. Used it to pull an old horse drawn Cambridge plow in the garden and move trailers around

 

[deerhunterf350]

txslowpoke,

Be sure and post some pics as your "Creation" comes to Life.

It will be interesting to see all of the mods , and some action Photos.


Dan

 

[KYErik]

If you need to do any sharp turning, I don't think that you will like the results of a spooled (Lincoln locked) rear axle. I have an 85 Jeep CJ7 that the previous owner had welded the rear diff together in. I thought I could save some hookup/unhook time by raking hay with the Jeep and then immediately jumping on the tractor and baling. The Jeep's turning radius is quite large with the locked rear axle, plus it tears up the ground when you turn since one wheel has to slip to make a turn.

On the plus side- the spooled rear axle makes it harder to get stuck

Just my 2 cents.