Factory wheel weights were too expensive!

markcg2000 · Jan 5, 2002

I picked up a scoop at an auction for around (if I remember right) $125-$150. I see one at auction at least once a year. I've been extremely pleased with it - but I still want a FEL... mainly because it'll be easier to drive forward and to lift the load. The scoop is sort of in the class of wheelbarrow when it comes to volume and lift.

Nuru · Jan 6, 2002

Keeny and CVHOSS; I just purchased a set of Olympic weights (390 - 400 lbs) to replace my old universal weight set, so now I have almost 350+ lbs of universal style weights just sitting around. These will be used for my Wheel weight project. I have 4 50lbs, 2 25lbs, 10+ 10lbs. I can either drill some holes in them or use the threaded rod type of mount. Looks like the fun will begin soon.

Funny thing, i had injured my shoulder bench pressing arounds 300lbs on a final set (Yes this was coming down in weight - I always "pyramid" in working sets, I just had finished a set at 320lbs), and I was not able to lift for about 3 months. Even 150lbs hurt my shoulder on the free weights. Well last week I was able to lift without pain, and this week I tried to go up in weight and I got as far as 300lbs and experienced no pain. You can imagine I was very happy. Well two days ago, I somehow injured my knee and now it hurts enough that I am unsure if I can get the weights out of my car and into the house, because taking the stairs can make the knee hurt even under my own weight. Oh well I guess coffee, tylenol, my wife and the kids will help.

Nuru

accordionman · Jan 7, 2002

yes, the factory wheel weights are expensive. i made mine for my
L3000DT from lift weights. every time i went shoping at walmart i
would buy two. it took me 6 weeks to get enough weights. i used
the HACKERS plan, had to modify it some. made 2 plates 1/2in thick,
12 in. diameter, and drilled holes. welded the 1in. diameter threaded
rod in the center, painted the two plates, and mounted them on the
tractor. then i put 6 weights on each side, with a washer, and nut to
hold them on. it works very well, and i can tell a difference in the way
the tractor handles.
accordionman
william l. brown

Nuru · Jan 7, 2002

accordionman; that is similar to the plan here. I will initially try an "all bolted" implementation. If that does not work then I will have some welding done, if not do it myself.

Nuru

Anonymous Poster · Jan 7, 2002

Just bought a L2500DT with FEL and was getting ready to have the tires filled with calcium chloride for weight, unit was shipped with tires emptied since it came from the south and I am in NH.
Are all you guys using weights in addition to filled tires?
This is my first tractor of this size so excuse my naivete.

accordionman · Jan 8, 2002

NEW BOSTON,
i am sure when i say this, it will start a new discussion. i would not use
calcium chloride. i am sure there are other chemicals that can be used.
i bought a TO20 ferguson tractor many years ago, and the first thing i had
to do was replace the wheels, because they were so rusted, they were
paper thin. i suspect this was from some sort of harsh chemical that was
used to fill the tires for added weight. probably calcium chloride.
accordionman
william l. brown

Nuru · Jan 8, 2002

Agree, I am just using wheel weights. Now if I get another set of rea wheels, i will probably go with Suplerflex and become very much stronger to pick them up to mount them onthe tractors. Superflex's vendor tells me that for my tires, Superflex will add 217 lbs to each tire. I can do that with my homemade wheel weights too.

Nuru

Harv · Jan 9, 2002

<font color=blue>Just bought a L2500DT with FEL </font color=blue>

Hey, that's exactly what I did just about a year and a half ago. Good bang for the buck.

Mine came with filled rears, but you know -- I didn't think to ask exactly what they were filled with. /w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif Since I wind up using the FEL virtually every time I take 'er out, I always keep an implement on the back, usually a box blade (about 450 pounds).

Since this is my first tractor I can't accurately rate it in terms of traction and stability, but I can tell you that traction is seldom a problem, even when working a heavy pile. It does seem a little tippy on my hilly property, but since I haven't actually toppled it over yet, I can't be sure what its limits really are.

According to the tiltmeters (and I highly recommend them if you have hills), I've taken it just past 15 degrees sideways and over 20 degrees front to back. In those cases the pucker factor took over and I backed off in a hurry. /w3tcompact/icons/tongue.gif

BTW -- I have my rear wheels set as wide as they'll go, and I'm using R1 tires.

Now, I'll put my own naivete up against yours any time, but just take 'er slow and make sure your seatbelt is fastened at all times, and I'll learn from your experience.

skent · Jan 16, 2002

I was going to fill my wheels until I saw your post. I only wanted the weight for pushing snow. Didn't want it while mowing.

Wal-Mart had the weights at $10 each, and I put four on each wheel. I mounted the first with all four carrage bolts, then bolted the other three to the first using a 1"X6" bolt thru the center hole of all four.

Thanks for the great idea!!!