The design mentioned by the OP is a dead trap.
the jack will only put tension as long as the tree is standing. If the tree moves half an inch the tension is off and the tree is free.
Opposite to pulling over a tree where you keep the tension for a much longer time and angle. So less chance of the three to come back.
With the OP design a breeze can break the grab of the jack on the tree or ground with all possible results as trees coming over backwards.
A tree jack as the Silveys are completely something different. If you lift inside the tree the 1 inch movement of the jack makes a hughe sweep at the top of the tree giving enough overweight to top it over. (the pumps in the jacks are really low volume so you lift only a fraction of an inch with every pump and so giving you a more steady controlled push on the tree)
edit:
my 2cents: buy 3 wedges and wedge them over. if you go steady you'll find you can direct the tree by playing with the 2 outer wedges.
Honnestly: If you are in the size of wood where the jacks come in handy you would not post here but have the skills and training to wedge or jack trees that big. The jacks had succes in replacing labour (not having to pound on a dozen of wedges for 1 hour, 5 times per day)
If you have kids, buy a rope 4 times the length of your highest tree and have them pull over the tree. That way you always know where they are while you are cutting AND know for sure they are out of the danger zone. Make them feel involved and important and tell them the truth when they are 20, it will make for a big laugh. (thats what my father did).