Farm Pro 2420 Problem

[Bob Rooks]

In post #4 I suggested that could be an issue with the EGR valve. Does your engine look like it has two temperature senders? The EGR valve however, does not control engine speed, but it can impair engine performance and increase fuel consumption if it's not functioning properly. These engines do not have aneroid valves.

 

[R Barger]

In post #4 I suggested that could be an issue with the EGR valve. Does your engine look like it has two temperature senders? The EGR valve however, does not control engine speed, but it can impair engine performance and increase fuel consumption if it's not functioning properly. These engines do not have aneroid valves.

I don't think so. This is a 2003 model pretty basic. I'll check it this afternoon when I get off work. I'm going to try to make a video of the start up if I can.

 

[R Barger]

It doesn't have 2 temperature senders. I made a video but can't figure out how to upload it.
Any suggestions on a cure for sticking fuel rack?

 

[Bob Rooks]

It doesn't have 2 temperature senders. I made a video but can't figure out how to upload it.
Any suggestions on a cure for sticking fuel rack?

What I do with videos is simply upload them to YouTube and then copy and paste the link. Like this
EMD 16-71�G - YouTube

As far as the rack is concerned, short of taking the pump and governor to a diesel shop, you can try a drain and flush with a quality flushing oil, or a 50/50 mix of engine oil and diesel fuel. Run the engine at a fast idle (about 900 r/m) for five minutes, then drain and refill with engine oil (I assume you are using a 15W-40 engine oil that meets CH-4, CI-4, or CJ-4 specifications).
You can also try a diesel fuel additive like a sulfur substitute. The Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel (ULSD) fuel doesn't have the lubricating qualities of the old fuel. ULSD has 15 ppm sulfur, and LSD had 500 ppm sulfur. As you may have guessed, sulfur is the lubricator in diesel fuel. We used to get around 40,000 hours of service on a set of injectors, but since the mandated switch to ULSD we are only getting around 28,000 hours, and the MTBF has dropped significantly.

 

[R Barger]

I went to start it this morning early and it was a little cool out side and it didn't want to start even with the glow plugs. I pulled the breather hose and put my heat gun in the end of the hose and the tractor started up and seem to take fuel quicker than normal so I thought glow plugs bad but when I pulled the glow plugs they heated right up. They do have power going to them in the heat position. I'm going to try to locate a compression tester and check the compression.

 

[R Barger]

Bought a compression tester today the adapter for the glow plug hole went right in but the gauge would not hook up because of interference with the intake manifold. I did notice that the starter kicks out as soon as the tractor comes up on a compression stroke. I think this is complicating the starting. I suppose it needs a solenoid or a starter drive. May take it off and see if there are any contacts that can be cleaned in the solenoid. It seems it disengages prematurely if that makes sense.

 

[Bob Rooks]

Bought a compression tester today the adapter for the glow plug hole went right in but the gauge would not hook up because of interference with the intake manifold. I did notice that the starter kicks out as soon as the tractor comes up on a compression stroke. I think this is complicating the starting. I suppose it needs a solenoid. May take it off and see if there are any contacts that can be cleaned in the solenoid.

What many people have done, with much success, is to add a relay in the solenoid starting circuit. Where the current flows from the key switch to the relay instead of the solenoid (you can feed the relay with a 12 gauge wire from the battery). They also do this with the glow plugs with much improvement. It saves passing the high current demand through the key switch. Interesting to note that the dozers come with a starting circuit relay to the solenoid. Yes, there are contacts and a copper washer in the solenoid that can be cleaned. Another thing you can do with the solenoid is to clean and lubricate the motor (slug) with graphite. Do not ever use grease here because it's very temperature sensitive in the cold, and it's literally a dust and dirt magnet.

 

[R Barger]

What about the starter drive? Any way I can tell which one it is? I have a Rhino (Chinese Tractor parts dealer) near that has the parts. I just don't want to buy more than what I need.

 

[erj]

Have you checked the voltage that the ignition switch is getting to the Solenoid? Connect one lead of a voltmeter to the small terminal on the Solenoid and the other to Ground. Turn the ignition switch to the Start position and see what voltage is actually getting to the Solenoid.

 

[R Barger]

Have you checked the voltage that the ignition switch is getting to the Solenoid? Connect one lead of a voltmeter to the small terminal on the Solenoid and the other to Ground. Turn the ignition switch to the Start position and see what voltage is actually getting to the Solenoid.

I'll check that tomorrow. I suppose I could use my remote starter switch to eliminate that as a possible cause.

 

[Bob Rooks]

What about the starter drive? Any way I can tell which one it is? I have a Rhino (Chinese Tractor parts dealer) near that has the parts. I just don't want to buy more than what I need.

There should be a tag on the starter with possibly a QDxxx number. The dealer may stock the solenoids separately, but I doubt they would stock solenoid components.

 

[R Barger]

I took the starter off today. Found no problem of any kind. I am convinced it's just a low compression problem. Going to pull the head this week. (Broken ring,worn rinks, maybe someone used either on it?)

 

[R Barger]

Pulled the head today and found fuel standing in the recess of the piston(bad injector). Sleeves and pistons looked good. Replacing one injector and the head gasket. Will finish tomorrow. Anyone no what the valves set on?

 

[Bob Rooks]

Intake is .35mm, exhaust is .40mm. Curious if the dribbling injector solves the acceleration issue. I thought you had an owner's manual.

 

[R Barger]

Intake is .35mm, exhaust is .40mm. Curious if the dribbling injector solves the acceleration issue. I thought you had an owner's manual.

CIRCLE TRACTOR that sells Jinma parts says the 14mm intake and 16mm exhaust. If your correct I need to pull the valve cover and readjust. A lot of difference.

 

[Bob Rooks]

CIRCLE TRACTOR that sells Jinma parts says the 14mm intake and 16mm exhaust. If your correct I need to pull the valve cover and readjust. A lot of difference.

Well, .40mm = .016", and .35mm = .014" (I'd go with that). Whereas 14mm = .55", and 16mm = .62" (.625 is 5/8", a wee much). I think Circle G is confused, and meant "fourteen thousandths and sixteen thousandths. If you set them at that, you're good to go (not 1/2" and 5/8"). Just look at a 14mm and 16mm wrench.

 

[Bob Rooks]

I'm sure people would like to know if replacing the fuel injector corrected your acceleration issue. How does the engine run now?

 

[R Barger]

The fuel injector reduced the the white smoke and it picked up the rpms quicker. When the shifter broke I pulled the top off the transmission so I'll have to wait till I get that repair done before I check it out more.

 

[Bob Rooks]

Thanks. Appreciate the followup.

 

[R Barger]

The tractor is greatly improved. Today it would accelerate in about 45 seconds after start up compared to 3 minutes. It seems the more I run it the better it gets.The tractor hadn't been run in 2 years when I got it. I changed the oil and filter,new fuel with fuel injector cleaner,changed the injector pump oil so I guess it just needs working. The parts supplier suggested loosening the injector pump and rotating it till the engine sounds the best. What do you think?