Farm Pro 2425 New Owner

   / Farm Pro 2425 New Owner
  • Thread Starter
#11  
My first accessory install:laughing:

153c0f08.jpg


Swiveling ATV drink holder, $8 from china mart.
 
   / Farm Pro 2425 New Owner #12  
Actually, that's a pretty cool accessory. I am supposed to be drinking something nearly constantly, and my Farmpro doesn't have a cup holder, so thanks for the idea!
 
   / Farm Pro 2425 New Owner #13  
100 hrs you should be checking all the adjustments at this point. I'm sure they haven't been done prior. r/r the fluids every 100hrs and check and adjust valve lash, I'd also check the fuel tank screen above the fuel bowl too (which should be cleaned as well). Also, check the pressurized section of rubber fuel lines for cracking. There are some updated parts you can put on there to prevent failure at the wrong time, I'd also like another mentioned check the clutch adjustment over closely. This will prolong your clutch life especially with a loader in operation as you show in your pictures. It's harder on the clutch. Also, be careful with the 4wd. The front axles are known to break. I'd just use 2wd unless you get stuck. And I wouldn't use the 4wd with the loader operation. There's been lots who've broken axles doing that it seems.

I have a 2003 FarmPro 2420 like yours but mine is a 2 cyl diesel with 2wd.

Steve

Steve
 
   / Farm Pro 2425 New Owner
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Actually, that's a pretty cool accessory. I am supposed to be drinking something nearly constantly, and my Farmpro doesn't have a cup holder, so thanks for the idea!

Glad I could help, gotta stay hydrated while working in the heat.

Speaking of heat, when working a bit, the coolant will spit as the radiator cap opens, here's my solution. Best use of Heinz ketchup bottle I could think of:p

d1b49d58.jpg


100 hrs you should be checking all the adjustments at this point. I'm sure they haven't been done prior. r/r the fluids every 100hrs and check and adjust valve lash, I'd also check the fuel tank screen above the fuel bowl too (which should be cleaned as well). Also, check the pressurized section of rubber fuel lines for cracking. There are some updated parts you can put on there to prevent failure at the wrong time, I'd also like another mentioned check the clutch adjustment over closely. This will prolong your clutch life especially with a loader in operation as you show in your pictures. It's harder on the clutch. Also, be careful with the 4wd. The front axles are known to break. I'd just use 2wd unless you get stuck. And I wouldn't use the 4wd with the loader operation. There's been lots who've broken axles doing that it seems.

I have a 2003 FarmPro 2420 like yours but mine is a 2 cyl diesel with 2wd.

Steve

Steve

Thanks for the heads up. All the fluids are at the right level and look ok, will need to have some filters for the first round.

Do these tractors have drains or do I need to suck it out of gearcase, transaxle etc?

You mention updated parts, could you be more specific?
 
   / Farm Pro 2425 New Owner #15  
Good Luck with your new machine.I have a 2003 Farmpro 2420 I bought new and so far I have 336 hours on it.I use it to pull a 5 foot finishing mower ,so far I have oly had to replace the clutch,the power lift leaks down and the plastic steering wheel brok and now I am trying to change the fan belt.Good luck if your tractor is like mine.I am just saving up for a new Deere .
 
   / Farm Pro 2425 New Owner #16  
Speaking of heat, when working a bit, the coolant will spit as the radiator cap opens, here's my solution. Best use of Heinz ketchup bottle I could think of:p

d1b49d58.jpg

Great idea! It must be kept 1/3 full otherwise it will suck air back into the cooling system.
 
   / Farm Pro 2425 New Owner #17  
Lots of drains, but they're not terribly evident.
Front differential bottom drain
Front drive unit bottom drain (one right, one left)
Engine has a drain plug for oil, and a block drain for coolant
Radiator coolant drain
Tranny bottom drain
Transfer case bottom drain
Rear differential bottom drain (one minimum, some have two)
Hydraulic sump rear drain (up and to the left from the PTO stub)

And probably one or two others that I've forgotten

//greg//
 
   / Farm Pro 2425 New Owner #18  
the fuel tank screen above the fuel bowl too
Odd you should mention that :) , using mine hard Friday levelling a bit of property, when I was done I figured I'd run the rake over the driveway, while doing that she started missing and losing power. Ended up she stalled but she'd start right up again but with no power. Long story short there was a blockage at the fuel line from the tank to the pump, I had to blow it backwards to get any fuel to flow. I guess that's my next project, removing the tank and doing a clean out. Either that or wait 'till winter in the middle of a storm to fix it when I'm across the road, my usual scenario LOL...Mike
 
   / Farm Pro 2425 New Owner #19  
Odd you should mention that :) , using mine hard Friday levelling a bit of property, when I was done I figured I'd run the rake over the driveway, while doing that she started missing and losing power. Ended up she stalled but she'd start right up again but with no power. Long story short there was a blockage at the fuel line from the tank to the pump, I had to blow it backwards to get any fuel to flow. I guess that's my next project, removing the tank and doing a clean out. Either that or wait 'till winter in the middle of a storm to fix it when I'm across the road, my usual scenario LOL...Mike

What was the blockage? Black/brown silimey stuff? If so, you caught a dose of diesel bugs. Whish means after you thoroughly clean the fuel tank you will have to change all fuel filters and treat three full tanks subsequently with a biocide fuel additive like Seafoam or BioBor. Good idea to wear nitrile gloves when you do, and try to not get any in your eyes, nose or mouth.
Here is a good short British article on them. http://www.howcleanisyouroil.com/DIESEL-FUEL-BUG
 
   / Farm Pro 2425 New Owner #20  
No it wasn't, or at least I don't think it was diesel bugs first thing I thought of tho, I've very **** about keeping the fuel fresh so I don't keep much on hand and I always add treatment to the fuel Origonally I thought it was the filter plugged or water in it as I had'nt been running it lately so first off I removed the filter and dumped it out, clear as glass and no water....hmmmm. I went to prime the new filter and realized I had just dumped my last jug in so I figure no big deal I'll just put it on and pump the crap out of the primer pump, which I did with no success.
I removed the line going to the pump from the tank and nuttin, no fuel flowing at all and the sight glass was full and clear so I figured I had something blocking the outlet in the tank. I took the cap off and gavethe line at the banjo fitting a shot of air and then the fuel started flowing.
Looking in the tank with a flashlight I can see flakes of rust on the sides of the tank so I'm assuming some broke free and plugged the outlet. I keep the tank full but it was kept on a lot somewhere for a couple of years before I bought it and I don't imagine it was full there......Mike
 

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