Farm Pro 2425 starts but will not stay running.

[Terry Gable]

I bought a used 2003 Farm Pro 2425 with no manuals that has been sitting idle for about a year. I replaced the battery and starter, drained the fuel and added new fuel, cleaned enough varnish/gunk out of the bowl and copper screen to choke a horse, replaced the fuel filter, pulled the primer pump and saw that fuel does flow to it when the valve on the bowl is opened. The problem is that the tractor will start after being primed but will only run for 3 to 20 or so seconds then appears to run out of fuel and stalls. Smoke was whitish but last couple attempts produced black smoke. I noticed that if I loosen the bowl to the point that fuel flows around it while priming with the bleeder open, I get fuel at the bleeder quicker. I have cracked open the bolt into the injectors from the top side and attempted to turn over the tractor but did not seem to get any help there. Looking for a few words of wisdom from the group. Could the copper screen still be blocking enough flow to keep the tractor running? Thanks all!

 

[Bob Rooks]

Check for diesel bugs (Google "diesel bugs"). Remove bowl assembly from tank, remove screen. Tank must be absolutely clean. Also checked for collapsed fuel lines.

 

[greg_g]

The hand primer - when vented - can only get fuel as far as the input to the injector pump. Getting fuel through the IP itself and up to the injectors via the hardlines requires that you crank the engine.

Get fuel as far as the end of the last rubber line. That's the end of the low pressure side. Tighten down where ever it was you vented to get it that far. Now follow the hard lines (steel) up to the injector bodies. Take a line wrench and loosen each of the hex collars that connect the hard lines to the injectors. One turn is usually enough. Crank the engine, watch for bubbles to form at the hex collars. When you see bubbles turn to raw fuel, tighten that collar down quickly. Sometimes the engine might start on one cylinder. If not, watch the others - and tighten the collars as the bubbles turn to raw fuel. The engine should be running by now.

Caution; limit you cranking to about 20 seconds, then let the starter cool down for a minute.

//greg//

 

[Terry Gable]

Thanks gentlemen, I'll try that but probably not this evening since we are now having tornado watches and the tractor is in the driveway.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Before you go too far check the oil in the injector pump. This has caused many issues. The pump has its own seperate reservoir.

Also be aware that there is a screen inside the fuel tank that causes issues. You must remove the sediment bowl and then the fuel shutoff from the tank. How is your fuel low if you were to just let it run out on the ground by removing the flex hose via the banjo bolt from the bottom of the injector pump? It should flow about a quart per minute. If not then you have a gummed up screen.

Also be aware that the flex line that runs from the fuel bowl to the injector pump has been know to collapse internally. It will look fine from the outside but be junk internally. Especially if a bio diesel blend has been used. One other thing is where the banjo bolt goes into the bottom of the injector pump on this flex line there is a little screen to further filter the fuel prior to getting into the injector pump.

Have you changed the spin on fuel filter? I use a FRAM P6503.

Also, check your air filter. Here are the filters I use on a 2003 Jinma 284, same as a 254.

Air= Purulator A42019
Oil= Fram PH3950
Fuel= Fram P6503

Chris

 

[Terry Gable]

Thanks Chris, I had forgotten to say that I had serviced the FI pump oil, it was low when I got the tractor.

I have pretty good fuel flow around the bowl when I loosen it and at the hose when the banjo bolt is removed from the bottom of the primer pump.

I did change the spin on fuel filter and pre filled it before installation but have not yet properly bled the air as sugested by Greg_G.

Weather is nice today so I plan to check the air filter and bleed the injectors this evening.

I also know I will need to do some fuse box maintenance because of corrosion in the existing fuse box, lights don't appear to be working but the starter does for now. I have the square fuse box with two rows of 5 fuses but only the bottom row appear to be used. If anyone has and can provide an electrical diagram of this tractor and copy of fusebox and which fuse does what, I would greatly appreciate it. I believe I will replace the fuse box with 5 sealed inline fuse holders and seal up the splice points real good but a diagram would make the job easier. Thanks for the advise and thanks in advance for anything you guys provide.

Terry

 

[Terry Gable]

Update, new fuel bowl (original equipment instead of what was cobbled in), new fuel line from bowl to fuel pump, unplugged the screen bolt that holds the line to the fuel pump and it runs great. Ran out of time so I took it to Masters Farm Supply outside of Marianna Florida and they had it done in a few hours. They are also a good supply point for nearly all tractors and have a good stock of Chinese tractor parts, great people as well. Thanks for the help! Still looking for a good wiring schematic and having difficulty engaging 4 WD.

 

[Soundguy]

now you know what to do and how to maintain it... good luck with the machine.

soundguy

 

[Diamondpilot]

Wiring is the low point on Chinese Tractors. There are wiring diagrams in the manuals. Contact on of the dealers and get one for your tractor, its a Jinma 254. Same thing as a Jinma 284

As for the 4 wheel drive. I have to be moving and just apply light pressure to the lever and it will engage. Same thing for the rear diff lock. Its easier to do while in a turn.

I had a feeling it was either a screen at the banjo bolt or a collapsed rubber fuel line. Seen it before.

Chris

 

[Affordable]

Spray WD40 where the 4x4 lever comes out of the case,work it back and forth,this is a common problem where the shaft starts to rust a little and it gets hard to engage

Tommy
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