JerryG
Super Member
They just have a single clutch. We wore one 140 completely out and put a lot of hours on another one. Most hours were put on in the strawberry fields. Lots and lots of strawberrys.
Farmall 140 Questions?
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Charolais
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- south/central Va.
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- Deutz Fahr Agrofarm 100, Stoll loader, bucket, forks & root grapple
Had two of them here. 1968 and a 1973 model. Both used for row cropping tobacco,corn and garden. One point hitch on all the ones I've seen. I had a 2 bottom plough and could break land all day on 10 gal. of gas. I may be wrong but I think the PTO is a bit more than 540. I saw one in a pond that was running a bush hog. Got to close to the water and pushing the clutch in won't stop them. He could have knocked it out of gear but didn't think fast enough.
They work real good pulling a 256 NH reel rake. Can turn very short and make good corners. Very dependable tractor. I miss having one now. Can't beat them in a garden.
They work real good pulling a 256 NH reel rake. Can turn very short and make good corners. Very dependable tractor. I miss having one now. Can't beat them in a garden.
JerryG
Super Member
Instead of a moldboard plow, we had a disc plow (2). Some call them a new ground plow. Your right about using gas, they didn't use much. It sound funny now, but we didn't have anything that ran on the PTO. Had several different kinds of plow though. Except for the two rear cultivator shanks everything we had for the rear was one point. The first one we had was a 1960 or 61 and the last one was 1973 I think.
Z Frederick,
A lot depends on want uses you would want for it. I have a Farmall 100 and have collected quite a few implements. I have a small farm so they all get used. If you tractor is converted to three point, you can buy stuff anywhere and the offset PTO is rarely an issue. If you have 1 point Fast Hitch, stuff is harder to find, but I find the one point design to be the best ever, especially for a one man operation.A few items that you might look for
1. Broadcast Spreader
2. Boom (for lifting heavy stuff). I drag telephone poles and lift logs and load equipment with mine.
3. Disk Harrow or drag for pasture renovation or reseeding)
4. Log Splitter (not Fast Hitch, just PTO driven)
If you have a garden, then a 100-140 is bar none one of the best tractors in the world (in my humble opinion). Items to get would be
1. Cultivators (take advantage of the offset engine "Cultivision" design of your tractor
2. Moldboard Plow (you can easily push a 2x14, I have one and it pulls well, even in the NC piedmont clay soil I have. Look for a 215 trip beam plow, just in case of rocks and such)
3. Disk harrow as mentioned above.
$200 for a bushhog is a great price IF the hog is in good shape. New they are upwards of $600.
A lot depends on want uses you would want for it. I have a Farmall 100 and have collected quite a few implements. I have a small farm so they all get used. If you tractor is converted to three point, you can buy stuff anywhere and the offset PTO is rarely an issue. If you have 1 point Fast Hitch, stuff is harder to find, but I find the one point design to be the best ever, especially for a one man operation.A few items that you might look for
1. Broadcast Spreader
2. Boom (for lifting heavy stuff). I drag telephone poles and lift logs and load equipment with mine.
3. Disk Harrow or drag for pasture renovation or reseeding)
4. Log Splitter (not Fast Hitch, just PTO driven)
If you have a garden, then a 100-140 is bar none one of the best tractors in the world (in my humble opinion). Items to get would be
1. Cultivators (take advantage of the offset engine "Cultivision" design of your tractor
2. Moldboard Plow (you can easily push a 2x14, I have one and it pulls well, even in the NC piedmont clay soil I have. Look for a 215 trip beam plow, just in case of rocks and such)
3. Disk harrow as mentioned above.
$200 for a bushhog is a great price IF the hog is in good shape. New they are upwards of $600.
OP
zfrederick
New member
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Thanks for all the replies,
Basically, I want to be able to cut the grass/fields, gather the leaves in the fall, plow snow, drag things (stumps and trees, etc), that pto driven log splitter sounds great - I never know then had them.
I know it has the 3 point setup.
The guy I am buying it from was telling me you can get a front buck loader for them. That sounds like a good idea to me if anyone knows who makes them or what that deal is with those.
Honestly I'm just getting into this and doing the research - its amazing me more everyday the number pto driven implements that can make a tractor even so much more useful.
And to think this other guy was telling me to forget the farmall and just get a zero turn mower to cut the grass....
I said I'd rather have something that can be more of an all-in-one. Sounds like the farmall 140 can do just that.
Thanks
Basically, I want to be able to cut the grass/fields, gather the leaves in the fall, plow snow, drag things (stumps and trees, etc), that pto driven log splitter sounds great - I never know then had them.
I know it has the 3 point setup.
The guy I am buying it from was telling me you can get a front buck loader for them. That sounds like a good idea to me if anyone knows who makes them or what that deal is with those.
Honestly I'm just getting into this and doing the research - its amazing me more everyday the number pto driven implements that can make a tractor even so much more useful.
And to think this other guy was telling me to forget the farmall and just get a zero turn mower to cut the grass....
I said I'd rather have something that can be more of an all-in-one. Sounds like the farmall 140 can do just that.
Thanks
I'll cover the stuff by item
1. Cut Grass: Between the belly mower and brush hog you have that covered.
2. Gather leaves: Just get a york rake or something like it from Agri Supply. May not get everything, but should be close.
3. Plow Snow: Tough one, unless you are up north, those 140 front snow plows are few and far between. Down south, there are lots of 140's but none have snow plows. I know one gent who has one and I have been working on him for two years to sell it to me. He doesn't use it but it just sits on his tractor rusting (but if I were him, I probably wouldn't sell either so I'll just wait).
4. Drag Things (get a boom pole, give you more drag/lift options), not very expensive at Agri-supply
5. Log Splitter (I think northern tool as a PTO driven one)
Having a 3 point, you should be good to go on finding stuff. The only caveat is you may have to play with PTO shaft length sometimes but that will be implement dependent. I have an adapter with a Fast Hitch Prong so I an alternate between 1 pt equip and 3 pt equip.
I would NOT get a bucket loader for a 140, for the following reasons
1. It take a lot of work to get it on (as it has took into your hyrdaulics and a stock 140 isn't set up for it so there are some mods you'll have to make.
2. Once it's on, you'll never take it off, because from my understanding it usually takes a day to put it on in the first place. Go to YTmag and do a search of the Farmall Archive and there are many folks who have had them or seen them and recommend highly against them.
3. 140s were made for farming and as a loader tractor, it stresses them highly. They buckets is usually very small and underpowered compared to modern tractors (hydraulics were very simple back then). So while it might move mulch, moving earth is a riskier proposition and can even break the chassis in some cases (as stated by Hugh McKay on YTMag board).
4. They are hard to find and expensive. I have seen them on ebay for $1-2000 dollars and if you are missing one part, you'll be hard pressed to know you are even missing something.
Now that being said, I haven't had one so this is just the collection of opinions from other folks. I thought about getting one for my tractor but after I did my research, was thoroughly disuaded. That being said, I do know a guy who said he has one so I know they are around. Good luck on that decision and if you get one, let us know how it goes.
As for the zeroturn mower, I don't have one and they seem pretty handy. One nice point about these Farmalls though is that you can independently lock the left and right brakes so it doesn't help alot to get tight turns (but not as nice as a zero turn mower).
Cheers
Ramon
1. Cut Grass: Between the belly mower and brush hog you have that covered.
2. Gather leaves: Just get a york rake or something like it from Agri Supply. May not get everything, but should be close.
3. Plow Snow: Tough one, unless you are up north, those 140 front snow plows are few and far between. Down south, there are lots of 140's but none have snow plows. I know one gent who has one and I have been working on him for two years to sell it to me. He doesn't use it but it just sits on his tractor rusting (but if I were him, I probably wouldn't sell either so I'll just wait).
4. Drag Things (get a boom pole, give you more drag/lift options), not very expensive at Agri-supply
5. Log Splitter (I think northern tool as a PTO driven one)
Having a 3 point, you should be good to go on finding stuff. The only caveat is you may have to play with PTO shaft length sometimes but that will be implement dependent. I have an adapter with a Fast Hitch Prong so I an alternate between 1 pt equip and 3 pt equip.
I would NOT get a bucket loader for a 140, for the following reasons
1. It take a lot of work to get it on (as it has took into your hyrdaulics and a stock 140 isn't set up for it so there are some mods you'll have to make.
2. Once it's on, you'll never take it off, because from my understanding it usually takes a day to put it on in the first place. Go to YTmag and do a search of the Farmall Archive and there are many folks who have had them or seen them and recommend highly against them.
3. 140s were made for farming and as a loader tractor, it stresses them highly. They buckets is usually very small and underpowered compared to modern tractors (hydraulics were very simple back then). So while it might move mulch, moving earth is a riskier proposition and can even break the chassis in some cases (as stated by Hugh McKay on YTMag board).
4. They are hard to find and expensive. I have seen them on ebay for $1-2000 dollars and if you are missing one part, you'll be hard pressed to know you are even missing something.
Now that being said, I haven't had one so this is just the collection of opinions from other folks. I thought about getting one for my tractor but after I did my research, was thoroughly disuaded. That being said, I do know a guy who said he has one so I know they are around. Good luck on that decision and if you get one, let us know how it goes.
As for the zeroturn mower, I don't have one and they seem pretty handy. One nice point about these Farmalls though is that you can independently lock the left and right brakes so it doesn't help alot to get tight turns (but not as nice as a zero turn mower).
Cheers
Ramon
Charolais
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2004
- Messages
- 594
- Location
- south/central Va.
- Tractor
- Deutz Fahr Agrofarm 100, Stoll loader, bucket, forks & root grapple
I haven't read all the replies. Some one may have mentioned this, if so it deserves repeating. If not,here she goes. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif The off set 140 Farmall will turn over easier than regular tractors. I've had them on two wheels several times. Had a rolling cultivator fall off while is was changing fields. I was in 3 gear when it went under the right side rear wheel. Yep I was on two wheels in a heart beat. Once I stopped I had to get off and sit down for a bit to get myself back together. Check for wet spots and such. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif Snaking trees and stumps?? Be very very careful. The 140 can and will stand up fast on the rear wheels. Had it to happen many times. Worst was when I was pulling a trailer load of irrigation pipe.(30' pipe) Started up a hill on a state maintained highway and had to gear down because of the load. When I went to 3rd gear the front wheels lifted about 3 ft. off the ground. Only way I got up was to get one of the workers to sit on the hood while I went slowly up the hill.
I ran ballast in all four tires and wheel weights on all fours too.
When I was a kid my bus driver was killed pulling a two bottom plow on his 140. He was working up some new ground for tobacco plant beds. Hung a stump with the plow up out of the ground and it turned over on him. It was on a small hillside. They can be operated safely and one little thing go wrong and it will turn over or stand up.
So be safe and take your time. Avoid hills if possible when pulling or carrying a load. Great little tractors with lots of power for their size. Just because the HP is under 30 don't be lulled into thinking it can't happen. OK I'm off my soap box. Good luck. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
I ran ballast in all four tires and wheel weights on all fours too.
When I was a kid my bus driver was killed pulling a two bottom plow on his 140. He was working up some new ground for tobacco plant beds. Hung a stump with the plow up out of the ground and it turned over on him. It was on a small hillside. They can be operated safely and one little thing go wrong and it will turn over or stand up.
So be safe and take your time. Avoid hills if possible when pulling or carrying a load. Great little tractors with lots of power for their size. Just because the HP is under 30 don't be lulled into thinking it can't happen. OK I'm off my soap box. Good luck. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
OP
zfrederick
New member
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- Sep 12, 2005
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Thanks for info on the 140 safety and rollover. I know the cub is offset too. Would I be better off with a cub, or do they both have the same sort of issues?
With ballasts and weights, would that make the tractor so much heavier, that when cutting close to the house, the tires would leave imprints? (I've seen how it can cut now with the finishing mower on it, and I'm really impressed with how well it looks) - I didn't know if weights and ballasts would adversly effect that or not.
Thanks
With ballasts and weights, would that make the tractor so much heavier, that when cutting close to the house, the tires would leave imprints? (I've seen how it can cut now with the finishing mower on it, and I'm really impressed with how well it looks) - I didn't know if weights and ballasts would adversly effect that or not.
Thanks
Charolais
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2004
- Messages
- 594
- Location
- south/central Va.
- Tractor
- Deutz Fahr Agrofarm 100, Stoll loader, bucket, forks & root grapple
If you don't have steep hills you won't need the ballast. It will steer better without the extra weight.
I've never owned a Cub or operated one. So I won't comment on it. The 140 should do as good of job as the Cub and better when the extra power and weight is needed. I just wanted to stress the safety issue of the offset 140. I'm sure the Cub has the same issue.
I've never owned a Cub or operated one. So I won't comment on it. The 140 should do as good of job as the Cub and better when the extra power and weight is needed. I just wanted to stress the safety issue of the offset 140. I'm sure the Cub has the same issue.
slowrev
Elite Member
Actually the offset Farmalls ( A, Super A, Cub, 140 ) are more resistant to rollover if you go around the hill with the engine on the uphill side, but worse if you go the other way. These tractors were designed for cultivation on fairly level areas, not for use as a utility tractor.
Another problem that some have is that the rear wheels have been swapped out. One side is supposed to have a heavy cast wheel and the other side is supposed to have a lighter wheel on it to help compensate for the offset design.
Ben
Another problem that some have is that the rear wheels have been swapped out. One side is supposed to have a heavy cast wheel and the other side is supposed to have a lighter wheel on it to help compensate for the offset design.
Ben
