Farmall A engine confusion.

[kw_20]

I have this Farmall A, and its a 45...from the bell housing to the drawbar. The engine is a 54, odd. At first I thought it was just a super a engine on it or somewhat. But the more I looked at it, the less confidence I had it that answer. First off, it has an IHC dipstick the petcock threads have been plugged. And the oil pressure gauge is against the block not facing the operator. Theres a weird plate on the block below the mag. And where the block meets the bell housing is a different shape. And lastly the engine serial number prefix is IMAM not FAA. What is this engine? Clearly not for an A...is it?

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Who says it's all original?

SR

 

[mcfarmall]

Might be an engine off a power unit. Usually an I would be for "Industrial". Also, I don't think they started using a dipstick on the C-113 engines until after 1951.

 

[DJ54]

Looks like a U-123 power unit. I have one on my Farmall A, installed it myself. It came off a 55-T baler.

 

[kw_20]

Looks like a U-123 power unit. I have one on my Farmall A, installed it myself. It came off a 55-T baler.

How would I tell that its a U-123?

 

[DJ54]

Run all of the numbers on the block on Google, and see what comes up. On mine, the identifying tag was on the bell housing for the belt pulley unit that was attached to the engine. Mine came off a 55-T square baler.

 

[RickB]

If it has a water pump it's not a C113.

 

[DJ54]

If it has a water pump it's not a C113.

My U-123 doesn't have a water pump either.

 

[RickB]

My U-123 doesn't have a water pump either.

Exactly why I phrased my comment the way I did.

 

[kw_20]

If it has a water pump it's not a C113.

What would the pump look like?

 

[RickB]

Pretty similar to any belt driven front mounted water pump found on the majority of liquid cooled engines built in the last 75 years or so.

 

[DJ54]

I will look like this. Otherwise, there will be a cast iron elbow That is like in the second picture.

 

[kw_20]

I will look like this. Otherwise, there will be a cast iron elbow That is like in the second picture. View attachment 714237
View attachment 714236

Is this what one looks like?

 

[DJ54]

No, that's the fan bracket water outlet. Note the above pictures, of the other outlet (actually, the inlet) with pulley, that goes to the bottom radiator hose. I'll correct myself on the model of that engine. It's a Model U2-55 on mine. The U-2 unit was 113 cubic inches, when mine was overhauled by an IH dealer, the PO had an oversized bore kit put in it, making it 123 cubic inches, like in the Super A, and C series. The "55" designates it was mounted on a 55-T baler. Look at the lower left of the engine, where the radiator hose attaches to the radiator. It may only have an elbow like mine. I've worked mine pretty hard pulling a 4' rotary cutter in 3'-4' high weeds and grass, and pushing fill material with a front mounted blade. and got it pretty warm, but not overheated. If the radiator is clean inside, and out, and fan belt properly adjusted, more than likely, you won't have any problems.

As luck would have it, the engine couldn't have stopped at a better place. Look close at the fan assy. in the picture, and note the round headed screw in the space ahead of the fan belt sheave, and the fan itself. That screw needs to be removed, and oil pumped in occasionally, to lubricate the fan assembly. The correct procedure to do that, is to turn it a bit towards you in that picture, until it it horizontal. Remove the screw, then with an oil can pump SAE 30 non-detergent oil in there, until it runs out. Then I place a shop rag below the assembly, then turn that hole straight down, until the excess oil stops running out. Then turn the fan until the screw hole is back to horizontal level, or where you can get to it easily, and replace the screw, and snug it. From the picture, it apperas to be in good shape, and no oil coming out the back. These units aren't rebuildable, so this simple procedure can save you time and money down the road.

I do this to all of mine during the Spring oil change, getting ready for the summer. Probably not required that often, I just do it then, so I don't overlook it, if done every few years. I've attached a picture of the clutch housing on mine, with the model number on it. It's being used as an engine stand for another C-113 engine, that is a work in progress here.

 

[kw_20]

No, that's the fan bracket water outlet. Note the above pictures, of the other outlet (actually, the inlet) with pulley, that goes to the bottom radiator hose. I'll correct myself on the model of that engine. It's a Model U2-55 on mine. The U-2 unit was 113 cubic inches, when mine was overhauled by an IH dealer, the PO had an oversized bore kit put in it, making it 123 cubic inches, like in the Super A, and C series. The "55" designates it was mounted on a 55-T baler. Look at the lower left of the engine, where the radiator hose attaches to the radiator. It may only have an elbow like mine. I've worked mine pretty hard pulling a 4' rotary cutter in 3'-4' high weeds and grass, and pushing fill material with a front mounted blade. and got it pretty warm, but not overheated. If the radiator is clean inside, and out, and fan belt properly adjusted, more than likely, you won't have any problems.

As luck would have it, the engine couldn't have stopped at a better place. Look close at the fan assy. in the picture, and note the round headed screw in the space ahead of the fan belt sheave, and the fan itself. That screw needs to be removed, and oil pumped in occasionally, to lubricate the fan assembly. The correct procedure to do that, is to turn it a bit towards you in that picture, until it it horizontal. Remove the screw, then with an oil can pump SAE 30 non-detergent oil in there, until it runs out. Then I place a shop rag below the assembly, then turn that hole straight down, until the excess oil stops running out. Then turn the fan until the screw hole is back to horizontal level, or where you can get to it easily, and replace the screw, and snug it. From the picture, it apperas to be in good shape, and no oil coming out the back. These units aren't rebuildable, so this simple procedure can save you time and money down the road.

I do this to all of mine during the Spring oil change, getting ready for the summer. Probably not required that often, I just do it then, so I don't overlook it, if done every few years. I've attached a picture of the clutch housing on mine, with the model number on it. It's being used as an engine stand for another C-113 engine, that is a work in progress here.

View attachment 714449

ok I'll look into getting that thing that you said oiled. Thank you for letting me know. I spoke to another lad about this an he has almost the exact same engine. Prefix was the same, serial numbers were pretty close. And also the number behind the oil filter were the same. The casting numbers are 4-26-Z not sure what the Z means (I know its year but not sure what). The man I spoke to said his was off a combine. Mine does not have the tag on the clutch housing. So if the fan isn't set right it can overheat? Is that because its not the right engine? I won't be mowing thick grass or pushing anything heavy. Just hauling firewood and pulling a tree or 2.

 

[DJ54]

It can overheat, if the belt isn't tight enough to turn the fan properly, radiator clogged, low on coolant, or chaff, dirt etc. covering, plugging the core/finns on the radiator. Being it has no water pump, it uses the Thermosyphon effect to cool the engine. It is not a pressurized system, like you're probably more familiar with, on newer tractors, and automotive cooling systems. It works very well, and if no water pump, one less item to maintain. A 50/50 mix of coolant will give you the best cool/freeze protection. It cools a lot better than straight 100% anti-freeze.

You shouldn't have any problems with overheating. If you do, look for the above mentioned problems.

Those are great engines. Easy to maintain as far as oil changes, and tune-ups. Might be an idea for you to get a operators, service, and parts manuals for it, and the tractor. I lookedon ebay yesterday, and there are some OEM manuals on there pretty reasonable. You can get all 3 for less than $40-$45. They will show you how to do all maintainance/repairs,and if you need parts, getting the oem part number from the parts manual is the easiest way to search for parts. I use Google to search for parts, or,for bearingsand seals, a lot of times you can cross/interchange part numbers through NAPA online, or Motion Industries, a national chain bearing/seal supplier.

 

[kw_20]

It can overheat, if the belt isn't tight enough to turn the fan properly, radiator clogged, low on coolant, or chaff, dirt etc. covering, plugging the core/finns on the radiator. Being it has no water pump, it uses the Thermosyphon effect to cool the engine. It is not a pressurized system, like you're probably more familiar with, on newer tractors, and automotive cooling systems. It works very well, and if no water pump, one less item to maintain. A 50/50 mix of coolant will give you the best cool/freeze protection. It cools a lot better than straight 100% anti-freeze.

You shouldn't have any problems with overheating. If you do, look for the above mentioned problems.

Those are great engines. Easy to maintain as far as oil changes, and tune-ups. Might be an idea for you to get a operators, service, and parts manuals for it, and the tractor. I lookedon ebay yesterday, and there are some OEM manuals on there pretty reasonable. You can get all 3 for less than $40-$45. They will show you how to do all maintainance/repairs,and if you need parts, getting the oem part number from the parts manual is the easiest way to search for parts. I use Google to search for parts, or,for bearingsand seals, a lot of times you can cross/interchange part numbers through NAPA online, or Motion Industries, a national chain bearing/seal supplier.

Thank you so much for your help!

 

[DJ54]

Welcome...

 

[kw_20]

It can overheat, if the belt isn't tight enough to turn the fan properly, radiator clogged, low on coolant, or chaff, dirt etc. covering, plugging the core/finns on the radiator. Being it has no water pump, it uses the Thermosyphon effect to cool the engine. It is not a pressurized system, like you're probably more familiar with, on newer tractors, and automotive cooling systems. It works very well, and if no water pump, one less item to maintain. A 50/50 mix of coolant will give you the best cool/freeze protection. It cools a lot better than straight 100% anti-freeze.

You shouldn't have any problems with overheating. If you do, look for the above mentioned problems.

Those are great engines. Easy to maintain as far as oil changes, and tune-ups. Might be an idea for you to get a operators, service, and parts manuals for it, and the tractor. I lookedon ebay yesterday, and there are some OEM manuals on there pretty reasonable. You can get all 3 for less than $40-$45. They will show you how to do all maintainance/repairs,and if you need parts, getting the oem part number from the parts manual is the easiest way to search for parts. I use Google to search for parts, or,for bearingsand seals, a lot of times you can cross/interchange part numbers through NAPA online, or Motion Industries, a national chain bearing/seal supplier.

Sorry to bother you but how would I tell that the belt is tight enough? I know everything else is good, its not clogged not low on coolant, fins are good.

 

[DJ54]

The manual calls for 3/4" to 1" deflection between the fan pulley, and crankshaft pulley, pressing in with little effort with your thumb. I normally check it when I do an oil change. A new belt may get slack a little sooner. It doesn't take but a few seconds to check it when doing a walk around, checking oil, and coolant, etc. before starting. Especially if you're going to be running it for a good part of a day.