Bison
Platinum Member
OK, hammer fit then?,..outcome is the same
Farming newbie needs help with implement repair
- Thread starter tmac196
- Start date
OP
tmac196
Silver Member
- Joined
- Aug 10, 2010
- Messages
- 163
- Location
- Temperance, MI
- Tractor
- 1951 Ford 8N, 1965 Ford 2000, Grasshopper 325D, JD 5065M
Thanks for all of the advice and the suggestions. THe roll pin punch sounds ideal, but the configuration of the implement, with 6 tine arms radiating from a central rotating head, makes it difficult to get around the arms on either side while using a 6-8 inch long roll pin punch as there is no space left to bring a heavy mallet of hammer to bear. It is an exercise in frustration.
I spoke with the CNH dealer and looked the part up online. They would be happy to order one for me. It is a 16 x 140 millimeter roll pin and they will sell it to me for $24.77! I nearly spit my coffee out all over myself. I asked him again, "Did you say twenty-four dollars and seventy-five cents?" He replied in the affirmative...before tax.
My next phone call was to a local Fastenal store. "We don't have metric roll pins in stock, but we can order one for you. I'll look it up and call you back on the price." He hasn't yet.
So...I may try taping a 16 mm socket to the exposed end of the existing roll pin and heating the rotating head which it is inserted into and then pounding on it. I'll let you know how I progress. I'll also look for a suitable roll pin online.
tmac
I spoke with the CNH dealer and looked the part up online. They would be happy to order one for me. It is a 16 x 140 millimeter roll pin and they will sell it to me for $24.77! I nearly spit my coffee out all over myself. I asked him again, "Did you say twenty-four dollars and seventy-five cents?" He replied in the affirmative...before tax.
My next phone call was to a local Fastenal store. "We don't have metric roll pins in stock, but we can order one for you. I'll look it up and call you back on the price." He hasn't yet.
So...I may try taping a 16 mm socket to the exposed end of the existing roll pin and heating the rotating head which it is inserted into and then pounding on it. I'll let you know how I progress. I'll also look for a suitable roll pin online.
tmac
k0ua
Epic Contributor
Wow, that does sound like a bunch for a roll pin.. I was thinking a couple of bucks, would be Ok for one that big..Good luck with it.
James K0UA
James K0UA
Bison
Platinum Member
Can't you use use a long bolt or a 5/8 rod and tack weld it in place.
There is plenty ways to skin that cat.
There is plenty ways to skin that cat.
OP
tmac196
Silver Member
- Joined
- Aug 10, 2010
- Messages
- 163
- Location
- Temperance, MI
- Tractor
- 1951 Ford 8N, 1965 Ford 2000, Grasshopper 325D, JD 5065M
Bison,
Those are good ideas. I am more partial to the bolt as this fastner needs to be removable for tine arm installation and maintenance. Thanks.
tmac
Those are good ideas. I am more partial to the bolt as this fastner needs to be removable for tine arm installation and maintenance. Thanks.
tmac
OP
tmac196
Silver Member
- Joined
- Aug 10, 2010
- Messages
- 163
- Location
- Temperance, MI
- Tractor
- 1951 Ford 8N, 1965 Ford 2000, Grasshopper 325D, JD 5065M
Update:
The problem is solved. Closer inspection revealed that the roll pin actually broke on the one end holding the tine arm to the rotating hub and when it did, the torque of the 15 lb tine arm actually bent the remaining portion of the roll pin in such a way that it was bent upwards over the top of the hole in the rotating housing that was meant to be pounded through. The end which remained sticking out of the other side (see pictures from initial post) was so rusted in place that the was no way to twist or pull it out. After 2 hours of various attempts to pry the torn end down to align with the exit hole which were fruitless, my neighbor (80 year-old farmer, been-there, done-that) suggested we try to cut the pin in place and haul it out in pieces. Neither of us had an oxy-acetylene torch, but I do have a Dremel and one 1-1/2" cutting disc on it with no spare...to be used against hardened steel.
The good news is that that Dremel disk cut through that steel roll pin like butter and once cut in half, it was easy to remove the rest of it.
30 minutes later we were finished and now I am back in business.
The lesson learned: Keep thinking. There are many alternative ways to fix a problem and always, always trust an old farmer.
tmac
The problem is solved. Closer inspection revealed that the roll pin actually broke on the one end holding the tine arm to the rotating hub and when it did, the torque of the 15 lb tine arm actually bent the remaining portion of the roll pin in such a way that it was bent upwards over the top of the hole in the rotating housing that was meant to be pounded through. The end which remained sticking out of the other side (see pictures from initial post) was so rusted in place that the was no way to twist or pull it out. After 2 hours of various attempts to pry the torn end down to align with the exit hole which were fruitless, my neighbor (80 year-old farmer, been-there, done-that) suggested we try to cut the pin in place and haul it out in pieces. Neither of us had an oxy-acetylene torch, but I do have a Dremel and one 1-1/2" cutting disc on it with no spare...to be used against hardened steel.
The good news is that that Dremel disk cut through that steel roll pin like butter and once cut in half, it was easy to remove the rest of it.
30 minutes later we were finished and now I am back in business.
The lesson learned: Keep thinking. There are many alternative ways to fix a problem and always, always trust an old farmer.
tmac