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[ROUSTABOUT]

My experience in 26 years wrenching on and selling parts for Ford tractors and other brands differs.
The temps and gauge readings reported by the OP fully support my troubleshooting strategy. There is no overheating condition. The gauge may not have failed. The power supply and or cluster ground paths are at least as likely to be at fault.

Id look at that 74 model water pump just for peace of mind. Could very well be original. I agree if its not boiling water out, it is something else. But you have to take into account where he is.

 

[CoyPatton]

Alright, great, I will get one and report back the results, thanks

Using the unit for temp on your millimeter, check in lots if places (expecting to get differing results). Some suggestions
-thermostat housing
-both upper and lower hoses
-front, rear, upper and lower block
-if your probe is water proof, drop it into your coolant in the radiator (only if you are certain it is water proof—not water resistant)

Just as with an IR thermometer, do not expect to get the same readings. Your thermostat temp setting should be where it will open at, but under load, I expect the engine will build up more heat—this being a normal/expected condition.

Check your temp gauge. If it is an older non electronic (it is still likely an electrical gauge but not computer controlled) an dirty check to to ground the sensor wire and the gauge should go full hot. It is possible that you have a faulty gauge wiring and no over heating at all.
Question: when you say you flushed your cooling system, was this a chemical flush? If yes did you rinse out the system? If no rinse, your cloudy condition could be a factor of chemical still in the coolant and or a continuing of cleaning passages.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Yeah, let's keep throwing parts at it until we figure out it isn't overheating.

Honestly, I can throw a 55 gallon drum of parts at something cheaper than a visit to the dealer. Them yayhoo parts changers probably weren't even born when tractor was made. If you ever see me at the dealer, it ain't me. Probably that long lost twin I always wondered about. I buy other tractors. I have a big Massey with a six cylinder Perkins I bought just to get the shuttle out of it. Way way way cheaper than the first three parts I needed for the other tractors 24 speed shuttle. Had to change from a hydraulic shuttle to a gear shuttle. Lot better situation.

 

[DSteiner]

My ‘93 Ford would overheat and very frustrating. It would blow coolant out the overflow tube on top of radiator. Pulled the radiator to get cleaned internally but when they started cleaning it sprung a leak and I was told, “not worth messing with.” Passages were half plugged and passages rotted. New radiator and all is well!

 

[RickB]

Honestly, I can throw a 55 gallon drum of parts at something cheaper than a visit to the dealer. Them yayhoo parts changers probably weren't even born when tractor was made. If you ever see me at the dealer, it ain't me. Probably that long lost twin I always wondered about. I buy other tractors. I have a big Massey with a six cylinder Perkins I bought just to get the shuttle out of it. Way way way cheaper than the first three parts I needed for the other tractors 24 speed shuttle. Had to change from a hydraulic shuttle to a gear shuttle. Lot better situation.

This isn't about DIY vs. dealer repairs. Knowing how to fix and knowing what to fix are not the same. This is about basic troubleshooting skills. Nobody said anything about taking it to a dealer or shop of any kind. So far it hasn't been established that the tractor is overheating at all.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Quit changing your coolant or maybe drain and save. Put straight water and cup of dishwasher machine soap. It don't foam. Run that for a few days and you'll know if the radiator was dirty.

 

[RickB]

Okay, thanks so much for the help. I believe I may have also added sealant tape when I replaced the sending unit, would that interfere with grounding? How should I go about sorting out the faulty gauge?

Get a good clean ohms reading between the cylinder head and the sender unit body. Should be zero or very, very close. If not, the tape is a problem.
With the fuel sender and temp sender unplugged at the cluster end, ohm between the cluster metal rear panel and a good chassis ground or the battery - cable. Again, should be zero.
Here is a link to a good discussion about voltage stabilizer function as it would apply to your tractor.
BTW how does your fuel gauge read?

ford 3000 voltage stablizer questions

www.tractorforum.com

 

[Mulenman]

Hey all,
thanks for reading, I've been having the same overheating issues over the last year, and it's starting to drive me crazy so any help would be greatly appreciated.
I'll try to keep it short
In the late winter, after a few hours of snow clearing, temp gauge would be running a little hot. As things warmed up, i figured i would do a coolant replacement.
I flushed the coolant, replaced with new, sprayed out the rad, replaced and tightened the belt and while i was working on it, decided to put in a new thermostat, cause i read sometimes they can go, their cheap, so figured i would.

temp after that would be pretty decent for regular work, then occasionally it would run really hot, then another day, would be fine, then would run hot another day, all with minor working it.

eventually however, i would run to hot when idling above 6-7k rpm, or within five minutes of use. at that point i flushed out the system again, put on a new rad cap and sending unit for the temp gauge, problem would continue. I couldn't see bubbles under the rad cap, and it would build up pressure, but overheat.

I then thought that perhaps the thermostat was faulty, or perhaps the wrong temp. The manual says it should open at 168, and full at 200. Tested the thermostat in water, and would start to open at 180, and full at 200. I then decided to run the tractor without the thermostat installed. I also noticed some dirty oil debris under one of the bolts for the head gasket cover, decided to take it off and reapply some high temperature sealant and reinstalled. topped off rad with coolant.

Ran great for 30 minutes turning compost heaps that day temp gauge was running low to medium, i was pleased.

Today i started to work on grading the driveway, but within 20 minutes it was running high hot on use and high idle, at low idle the temp would come down. top rad hose hot, opened the rad cap with the tractor turned off, not a lot of pressure under it, however i noticed that the coolant rather than being bright green, was now cloudy and grey.

what's going on?

Was there crude in the engine block that was built up, and with the thermostat gone discoloured the coolant? should i replace all the coolant and flush out again? or is that oil in the coolant and maybe the water pump failed? leaking oil somewhere into the coolant?

thanks in advance!

Stephen,
Nova Scotia

1974 Ford 3000, 3 cylinder diesel

I've had similar cutting off after 20 minutes.. read alot of problem solving but after replacing coil and insulating lines, same issue.. what has my tractor running properly again was draining gas out and using non ethanol gas and adjusting carb screw 1/4 turn out ( more gas) not the idle screw.. running great now

 

[crackerjack222]

Diesel engine overheating can be caused by dirty/restricted air filter.

 

[Williy]

I see that you have changed the coolant several
times but have you replaced the radiator hoses?
they can collapse and restrict the flow

willy

 

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[marhar]

sounds to me like a water pump is not doing its job..

Have you tried a radiator flush with radiator cleaner?? I know you said you I flushed the coolant.

 

[K5lwq]

A brand new water pump, thermostat, radiator, fan, belt, air filter or flushing the block will NOT help the OP with his problem.

 

[beesaw]

Another update, Had it running again today, with the temp gun, same results, gauge was running real high with no change in temp gun, then the gauge started to level out and be on the cooler side, I will trouble shoot the cluster and temp gauge. thanks everyone, particularly RickB, at least worst worries of over heating tractor are behind me.

 

[Fxfymn413]

Have you performed a coolant system pressure test? If not I would at the very least check it just to re-assure myself that it is not a head gasket.

But, my thought is that since it is an intermittent problem it is most likely a faulty sensor and or gauge. Follow the circuit; fuse to key switch to gauge to sending unit to ground.

With the engine off remove the wire from the sensor and ground it; the gauge should go to full hot; if it doesn't the gauge is bad or the wire has an intermittent open in it. Next check the sensor to ground and measure the resistance with it cold and than again while hot. It should go down as it heats and if it shows an open it is faulty. Check the feed to the gauge to ensure it is getting line voltage as well. Is the fuse clean and tight?

Given the age of the machine don't discount a chafed wire somewhere.

My mantra for trouble shooting is it always something simple if you can't find it right away since the really bad stuff is usually pretty easy to recognize. The corollary to that is to not immediately start thinking it is the worst thing that could occur and start hunting for that,

 

[beesaw]

Get a good clean ohms reading between the cylinder head and the sender unit body. Should be zero or very, very close. If not, the tape is a problem.
With the fuel sender and temp sender unplugged at the cluster end, ohm between the cluster metal rear panel and a good chassis ground or the battery - cable. Again, should be zero.
Here is a link to a good discussion about voltage stabilizer function as it would apply to your tractor.
BTW how does your fuel gauge read?

ford 3000 voltage stablizer questions

www.tractorforum.com

Fuel gauge runs fine, no issue with it,

Get a good clean ohms reading between the cylinder head and the sender unit body. Should be zero or very, very close. If not, the tape is a problem.
With the fuel sender and temp sender unplugged at the cluster end, ohm between the cluster metal rear panel and a good chassis ground or the battery - cable. Again, should be zero.
Here is a link to a good discussion about voltage stabilizer function as it would apply to your tractor.
BTW how does your fuel gauge read?

ford 3000 voltage stablizer questions

www.tractorforum.com

thanks, did those, low or zero ohms on both of those tests, did remove the tape off the sender anyway, fuel gauge runs fine, only have a digital multi meter, not sure how to test the stabilizer with it

 

[dodge man]

Geez, did anybody read his post about the IR guns reading. Unless I’m reading it wrong the tractor is not overheating, it’s barely even warmed up. Its a gauge, sending unit wiring problem.

 

[beesaw]

Think I figured it out, voltage stablilizer is only getting 1.4 volts, musta burnt out, gonna order a new one, thanks everyone

 

[RickB]

Think I figured it out, voltage stablilizer is only getting 1.4 volts, musta burnt out, gonna order a new one, thanks everyone

Hopefully that will cure it.

 

[garycpennock]

You might try removing the thermostat completely. It will take longer to warm up, however it will allow full flow of coolant thru the engine. If it does not over heat or is somewhat better (cooler), this would indicate a possible flow restriction. Maybe need to rod out the radiator or something else ??? Good luck on diagnosing the problem.