FEL how long 'should' bucked remain up when parked?

[ovrszd]

Must be at least in the 10th round...today the bucket is almost on the ground.:stirthepot:

Obviously your cylinders are NOT confined.

 

[RNeumann]

I wonder what hot or cold temperatures would do to the drop rate. It would seem to me that the bucket would drop faster in hot weather with thinner fluid and slower in cold weather with thicker fluid.

I just put my tractor on a barge and I'm headed south. I believe as soon as I'm south of the equator the FEL will drift up. Something to do with magnetic north vs true north.

 

[ray66v]

Maybe you didn't mean to imply anything, but that's the way it read.

I have never seen a post on here, where a member claims that their loader drifts, but only after they manually extend the cylinder. But there are plenty of threads about loaders drifting down once raised under hydraulic power.

So you make a statement, about a cylinder being able to drift down, (only if manually extended) which is in no way what the op is experiencing, then conveniently forget to mention that it can only happen if the cylinder is manually pulled out.

I can't help what you choose to read into what I said.

I was explaining the reason for my confusion, not the OP's problem.

It never suggested the scenario you are imagining, conveniently, or otherwise.

 

[LD1]

I wonder what hot or cold temperatures would do to the drop rate. It would seem to me that the bucket would drop faster in hot weather with thinner fluid and slower in cold weather with thicker fluid.

Outta be moving pretty slow here today. Single digits in Ohio this morning

 

[LD1]

I can't help what you choose to read into what I said.

I was explaining the reason for my confusion, not the OP's problem.

It never suggested the scenario you are imagining, conveniently, or otherwise.

Honestly, I still have no idea where you stand on the subject, or what you are even trying to argue about now?

In post 33, you wrote

The leak down is most often caused by fluid leaking past the internal seal in the cylinder. Weight forces the fluid behind the seal, to seep past the seal, from the higher pressure side, to the lower pressure side, and the FEL drops.

Since it's an internal seal, nothing you do externally, like wiping oil on the ram, will make much difference. The internal seal(s) never run on the shaft. They are located on the end of the shaft, and run on the internal bore of the cylinder.

If the cylinders are well made, they have tight tolerances, and good seals. But, those cylinders are expensive.

If they are not well made, they do not hold for long periods of time, especially after they start to wear.

If the leak down gets too fast, it's really not big deal to pull the shaft, and replace the seals.

Which is the first time anyone in the thread mentioned anything about seals. And this post is exactly the kind I am talking about. Someone has a loader drifting problem, and someone always (wrongfully) trys to advise that the seals are bad and the cylinders probably need rebuilt.

And again in post #41 you advised that its probably a seal problem again

Anything is possible, including a leaking hose.

But most of the time, I'll bet it's the internal seals in the cylinder.

Posts 42 onward, you were called on your error, and the fact that it cannot be the seals causing the drift.

In post 142, you agreed with ch1ch2 and made the following comment

+1

It's a little confusing, because, if you start out with a sealed, retracted double acting cylinder, full of oil, you can in fact pull the ram out, and push it back in all day, when it has an internal leak. That's how we always tested them.

I see now, if you start out with it extended, it's a whole different ballgame.

Which is TOTALLY irrelevant. NOBODY that is complaining about loader drift is starting with the cylinders compresses and manually pulling them out in the method you describe for "testing" them. I thought it was pretty obvious that when someone complains about loader drift, they are raising their bucket with the hydraulics, letting the valve return to neutral, and seeing if it drifts and how fast. So yea....that would be starting out with an extended cylinder.

Then in post #146 in response to me, you said

I never said, or implied, that, or anything of the sort.

I stated the reason why I believed it was possible for them to drift down.

You never said or implied WHAT? YOU tried to advise the OP that the seals are usually the cause of the issue he is experiencing....which is FALSE FALSE FALSE. And now you are backpedaling saying "I didnt mean that" or "I didnt imply that" and laying blame on me for mis-interpreting your posts:confused2:

Again, I have no idea if you actually understand this or not. At first you were wrongfully saying the seals were the likely culprit, then I think the light bulb came on upstairs, and now you are trying to save face saying I read into your posts wrong:mur: There is nothing wrong with admitting you had a brain fart. It happens. But at the end of the day, you either get it or you dont. And I honestly dont care if you do or not anymore.

 

[oldballs]

And now I know why there are Atheists and Believers....or do I? ...love the banter however.

 

[ray66v]

Honestly, I still have no idea where you stand on the subject, or what you are even trying to argue about now?

In post 33, you wrote



Which is the first time anyone in the thread mentioned anything about seals. And this post is exactly the kind I am talking about. Someone has a loader drifting problem, and someone always (wrongfully) trys to advise that the seals are bad and the cylinders probably need rebuilt.

And again in post #41 you advised that its probably a seal problem again



Posts 42 onward, you were called on your error, and the fact that it cannot be the seals causing the drift.

In post 142, you agreed with ch1ch2 and made the following comment



Which is TOTALLY irrelevant. NOBODY that is complaining about loader drift is starting with the cylinders compresses and manually pulling them out in the method you describe for "testing" them. I thought it was pretty obvious that when someone complains about loader drift, they are raising their bucket with the hydraulics, letting the valve return to neutral, and seeing if it drifts and how fast. So yea....that would be starting out with an extended cylinder.

Then in post #146 in response to me, you said



You never said or implied WHAT? YOU tried to advise the OP that the seals are usually the cause of the issue he is experiencing....which is FALSE FALSE FALSE. And now you are backpedaling saying "I didnt mean that" or "I didnt imply that" and laying blame on me for mis-interpreting your posts:confused2:

Again, I have no idea if you actually understand this or not. At first you were wrongfully saying the seals were the likely culprit, then I think the light bulb came on upstairs, and now you are trying to save face saying I read into your posts wrong:mur: There is nothing wrong with admitting you had a brain fart. It happens. But at the end of the day, you either get it or you dont. And I honestly dont care if you do or not anymore.

Great. Have a wonderful Christmas!

 

[WoodChuckDad]

Completely normal.
At work we have a 2016 cab skid steer.
It needed new tires, one of the guys jacked the back tires off the ground to remove them. The front he just used the boom/bucket to lift the front end.
The cab door was open, by the time he returned from getting the new tires mounted (an hour or 2) the boom had drifted and the loader had hit the open door and blew the glass out.

In the late spring, I was unloading an excavator bucket from the back of my pickup truck, using the FEL with grapple. I turned the wheels and broke the seal un my under inflated front right tire. I used the FEL on raised bank of the road to get the front end up enough to remove the tire. Ran down to the local General store and they directed me to a local WWII vet who helped me re-inflate it. Thank goodness, because it was Sunday and no shops were open. But, the FEL stayed up, keeping the tractor front end high enough to put the wheel back on when we got back.

 

[cat fever]

I have a question about how the hydraulics work on the back of my tractor.
The tractor came with one set of hydraulics and I paid to have a second set installed.
My haybine has a single hose from the ram, when hooked to the stock set of hydraulics it moves up and down with the movement of the lever inside the cab just fine. (slow or fast depending on how far I move the lever)
If I hook up to the added hydraulic block the cutter moves up slow or fast with the lever control. However, if I try to lower the cutter it just falls to the ground with no control.
So even though the hydraulic blocks look the same on the outside, are the internals different?

 

[DK35vince]

I have a question about how the hydraulics work on the back of my tractor.
The tractor came with one set of hydraulics and I paid to have a second set installed.
My haybine has a single hose from the ram, when hooked to the stock set of hydraulics it moves up and down with the movement of the lever inside the cab just fine. (slow or fast depending on how far I move the lever)
If I hook up to the added hydraulic block the cutter moves up slow or fast with the lever control. However, if I try to lower the cutter it just falls to the ground with no control.
So even though the hydraulic blocks look the same on the outside, are the internals different?

Not familiar with your machine.
But on mine both rear remotes work the same. (slow or fast depending on where I have the lever)