FEL install, pain in the -------

   / FEL install, pain in the ------- #11  
I install and remove my FEL a couple of times a week in the Summer. At my house I do it on the concrete floor of my garage and it is very quick (few minutes on and off). At my lake property I don't have the concrete luxury, so I improvise by using a 2x6 board under the support legs and a 2x12 under the FEL Bucket. I use this on sloped land as well as slightly uneven. As long as you have side to side fairly even the front to back can be sloped.

I started using the continuous length of wood (ie 2x6 that is ~4' long and 2x12 ~4' long) when I had trouble getting it back on once a couple Summers ago. I had been using just wood blocks, but it allowed the one side to sit lower than the other and I had to have my father help me lift it.

I have also used a 4x8 sheet of plywood in an area that was more uneven, but that was too much work to move around or carry.

Last of all, when I lower my support legs I do it with the FEL lifted only as much as needed that way I can reach over the FEL arms to put the pins in.

If you use the board method, you will have to position the 2x6 with the supports starting on the front of it as it will slide back as you lift up the tractor front with the bucket.

Last of all, I can do it much faster by the middle of the Summer when I am doing it all the time than I can in the Spring and have to remember my lever movements and repeat things from lack of practice (FEL stays on all Winter /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif)

With practice you will become a master and find it very easy.

Now the grass catcher is another story /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 
   / FEL install, pain in the ------- #12  
I have a BX1500. My usage is similar to Surfran's. I install/remove on a moment's notice - sometimes several times per week. I can install or remove in two minutes without even hurrying. The biggest trick is knowing how to use the hydraulics to line it up. I've done this in Sunday clothes! The only messy part is the hydraulic lines. Do it a few times and you'll figure it out. It doesn't take any physical effort at all.

It does make it a little easier to do it on a hard surface but it isn't much more difficult on a grassy slope. I believe I could do it on any angle, any surface as long as the parking brake holds! The tractor and FEL need to be on the same sideways angle or it can be difficult. You should be able to do it with any fore/aft angle. If you come at it straight and square you can handle a significant up/down misalignment and still get the sides to pop down into their place so the pins can be inserted.

My only issue that I sometimes run into is somehow leaving some sort of pressure or something in the hydraulic lines which means it takes a lot more effort to get them to that last click when connecting.

I have met a BX2200 owner who has never has his FEL off. He mows a small yard with it like that. I haven't seen him since I bought my BX1500 1.5 years ago otherwise I would have showed him how to do it.

Quick Summary of how I do it:


Remove

Tractor running. Set parking brake. Lift FEL chest high. Get off the tractor and move supports to the down position. Lower FEL, stopping when the supports just barely contact the ground. Kick supports towards the middle of the tractor so they don't bind on the front wheels when the FEL is lowered all the way. Curl bucket all the way IN. Lower FEL to ground. Curl bucket out just a bit to release pressure on the pins. Remove pins and put them in their little holders on the FEL arms. Extend FEL arms (would be Raise FEL if pins were in place) about 6 to 12". Curl bucket back IN to pull FEL arms off the lower supports. Tractor OFF. (my new untested step --> Wiggle FEL lever to equalize hydraulic pressure.) Disconnect hydraulics. Tractor ON - reverse away!


Install

Drive tractor to FEL so that it is exactly square and lined up with one of the FEL arms. They may have moved to be uneven since you last used the FEL. That isn't a big deal. Square alignment is important and is easy to do with the hydraulic transmission. This is the only step that is any different than the reverse of the Removal process.

Disclaimer: Working with hydraulics can be dangerous if you don't know what you are doing. Keep all arms, legs, fingers, and children away from danger while you are working with hydraulics.
 
   / FEL install, pain in the ------- #13  
I always "wiggle" the FEL joystick in all directions before dismounting and removing the hydraulic couplers. I have had my FEL out in the Summer sun for a week or more before and re-installed without any problems with the hydraulic pressure. In fact I have never in 2+ years had hydraulic pressure that required me to relieve it to install the FEL. I also raise lower the 3-point with tractor off when I go to re-install it so that there is no pressure.

It works for me and I do it often in the Summer. Of course I don't have those fancy dancy pin holders on my OLD FEL /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif I have to put mine on the floor until the FEL is off then I re-insert everything back into the supports. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
 
   / FEL install, pain in the -------
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Thanks to all for very good info especially DaveInColorado. I will have this post with me when I take off the FEL this weekend. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
 
   / FEL install, pain in the ------- #15  
My BX2230 FEL comes off quit easily. The garage (concrete floor) is almost level. The procedure for the 4-way valve that remains on the tractor is to raise to chest height, shut off engine, get the legs down, pin them, start tractor, point the bucket down from level 20 degrees, slightly lift wheels (accoring to manual) but I exert significant down pressure and may need to slightly relax to get the pins out. Trick is to not lift by the support legs. Start and curl bucket out to lift arms and back very slowly out about two inches. Shut off tractor. Move 4-way valve around in all directions to relieve pressure. Disconnect quick couplers and cap them. Drive away!

When I reconnect, I drive slowly in until touching the back of the frame mounted supports, shut off tractor, connect couplers ( make sure to get them right), start tractor and curl the bucket until the arms make contact with the bottom of the frame mounted supports, as well. Then pin; I find I always have to hammer a piece of 4" X 4" wooden block no matter. 3 mins on/off! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

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