FEL Quick-Connect problem

Heath · Mar 27, 2003

I've also followed the directions each time. The directions are not real detailed, but I AM following them.
Did you get it re-attached the last time? How did you do it?
Heath

Anonymous Poster · Mar 27, 2003

Heath,
I learned the "hard way" on my NH. After discussing the problem with my dealer, he informed me that you "must" have the tractor off when installing or removing the quick-connect. With the tractor running, the pump is still producing pressure, even though you move the controls in all directions. His advice is to place the bucket flat on the ground and lift the loader high enough so that all of the weight is on the stand. This will eliminate the possiblity of weight on a tipped bucket/loader arm from pressurizing the system. So, lift the loader, flatten the bucket, turn off the tractor, exercise the controls in all directions, and then disconnect the hoses. Works every time.

If the hoses are pressurized when it is time to re-install, the best way to relieve the pressure is by covering the connector with a rag (learned this the "hard way" as well. Have you ever had a hydraulic oil shower?) and tapping it with a block of wood or a brass hammer. Good luck.

Heath · Mar 27, 2003

That makes a lot of sense. I relieved the system pressure AFTER I unhooked the hoses. I'm sure this allowed the system pressure in the loader hoses to remain high. This makes sense with what I was finding when I was trying to re-attach the hoses. "Low" pressure in the tractor coupler as evidenced by the moveable "nipple" inside the coupler and "high" pressure in the loader hoses as evidenced by my inability to push in the nipple on the hoses.
I think you've pulled it all together for me!
I'm on the road now, but I'm going to try it this weekend.
Thanks!
Heath

beenthere · Mar 27, 2003

Sounds like you now have it figured out. Relive the pressure with the tractor off and the loader still attached at the hydrualic connections by actuating the joy stick. This relieves the pressure in the lines and they will reconnect much easier. Now, sometimes the oil is cool, and if you re-connect when the temp is warm to hot, you may again end up with pressure in the lines, holding the "ball" in the ends of each hose so tight it will not press in when re-connecting. With a rag wrapped around the end of the hose (to avoid an oil bath), press the end of the hose against a piece of wood. Oil will discharge and the pressure will be relieved. Don't strike it with a hammer or strike it against the frame, as it may dent the "ball" and not seal in the future. Because of all the warnings about oil under pressure (which this is), you may not find this procedure in the book. But it works on the few occasions that I have needed it. Just be careful and don't get oil into the skin or in the eyes. The rest of you will wash. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

jasonf · Mar 27, 2003

Probably the best way to get out of this now is to go to one of the flare nut connections where the hose joins the metal piping and crack each of them open a half turn. I am sure you will see a bit of oil come squirting out from being under pressure. I like this better than trying to use a drift or punch as there is no change of damaging the check ball or the nylon seal. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif On my 2710, I have to shut off the engine move the stick in all directions and then disconnect......

Heath · Mar 27, 2003

I'm so happy I asked the question. I was really hoping I didn't have to struggle with it every time I wanted to re-attach the loader. I thought the pressure in the loader lines was the problem, but I wasn't sure if I should try to relieve the pressure by pushing the hose fitting against something or not.
Heath

beenthere · Mar 27, 2003

Go ahead, just be prepared for some oil to suddenly appear. Probably a milk jug with the top cut out would provide a catch basin for the oil as well as provide the soft material that will not damage the ball.

The other suggestion of loosening some fittings should also work, but I'd rather deal with the oil from the end of the hose, in a direction that I control. Suit yourself.

herbenus · Mar 27, 2003

Yes, engine must be off. I position loader, extend fully, with transmission in neutral. Turn engine off. Move joystick all around like a wild man. Disconnect hoses and hang over top so they don't fall in dirt. When hooking up: get lined up, turn engine off, and again move joystick around like a wild man (maybe unnecessary but doesn't hurt to make sure no pressure trapped by valve in case you bumped valve at some point).

One mistake I made early on was to not fully extend arms. This left fel freestanding in a precarious position. Also, since I'm storing on dirt, I lay some boards under both sides for latch to slide on.

Have fun. I do believe the fel is by far the best, most useful, and most fun piece of equipment you can attach to a tractor.

WCarlson · Mar 27, 2003

There are a number of ways to relieve the pressure cited in the responses you received, some are easier or have less potential for damage than some others. I generally don't have a problem with my 4200, except when it is warmer out when I am reattaching the FEL than it was when I detached it. Then I invariably have the same problem you are having. My solution is to cover the male end of the coupling with a rag and push it against the FEL support with a substantial amount of pressure, no impact just pressure. The nipple releases and a bit of hydralic fluid enters the rag, but it will connect.

Bill

Anonymous Poster · Mar 27, 2003

To assist in removing and reattaching hydraulic couplers and cylinders for headers and feeder housings in research and farm size combines and for other hydraulic lines, a tee and valve can be installed to relieve hydraulic pressure. These combines are cleaned frequently to avoid contamination of harvested seed crops thus hydraulic couplers and cylinders are removed/reconnected almost daily. Typically, the crew tears down the combine in the cool of the morning to clean it but it is often reassembled during the heat of the day when the hydraulic hoses have "repressurized" due to an increase in temperature. The valves provide a safe way to relieve the pressure and direct a small amount of hydraulic fluid (usually through a flexible tube into a container). No fuss, no muss. It is very important, of course, to provide support (I use custom built jack stands) for safety reasons for parts that may shift or move when the pressure is released.