FEL won't lift or lower

[Happy in NC]

So I was working on my bridge yesterday and took my 4 in 1 bucket of and put the forks on. Lift and lowered fine. Loaded up a pallet and lifted and went to the bridge and shut my NH TC45D off. Worked a while and started the tractor back up. Went to lift the load and it might have lifted a couple of inches. Not sure it did but it wouldn't lift. Had enough clearance to get back to the shop. Went to lower and it wouldn't drop. It is definitely affecting the engine as I can hear RPM change when trying to lift or lower.
I searched for this as I thought I have seen it before. But couldn't find anything.
Anyone know what else to check? I have reseated all the hoses and nothing. Is there electric involved in this process as I have had some electrical issues but everything has been working. Not real sure where to go next.
Thanks as always
Steve

 

[ptsg]

Make sure the quick connects are fully seated. You may need to support the bucket with a jack, so it takes the pressure of the lines and allows you to reconnect the quick connects.

You may want to check the poppet inside the quick connects while you're at it.

 

[Happy in NC]

Poppet? The small ball inside? I did disconnect and reconnect all the hoses.
The bucket is off.
Should have noted this is a Woods 1012 FEL

 

[kenmbz]

Maybe a bit of dirt blocking the connection?

 

[Happy in NC]

Solved. After chcking for the third time I thin a hose wasn't seated all the way. Thanks for the input as usual guys!!!

 

[dodge man]

How do the hydraulics work for the 4 in 1? I assume there are hydraulics that open and close the bucket. Is this a third function? I’m thinking that is maybe hanging up. When you say it affects the engine that makes me thing something is stuck open in the hydraulics and dead heading the pump. Maybe the valuing under the joy stick also.

 

[Happy in NC]

Two hoses for the bucket to open and close. It's funny because I didn't do anything to the hoses I needed to reseat. I still don't know if the is power to this process. My battery is oficialy shot. Looking for a new one now. Cant complain because that Interstate battery has to be 20 years old. Was in a boat before the tractor and I haven't had a boat in 15 years or so

 

[5030]

One thing I always do (besides running Interstate flooded cell batteries) is, I take the starting battery out of circuit by breaking the circuit at the NEGATIVE post of the starting battery when the tractors are sitting idle for an extended amout of time. I use an inexpensive knife switch attached to the negative post of the battery which isolates the battery entirely. Flooded cell batteries when not in curcuit loose about 5% of their total charge per month sitting idle, so if they are fully charged, you can in theroy, let them sit out of circuit for a couple months and still have sufficient amperage to crank up your engine.

I have no idea how that would work with a unit that relies on an ECM to operate but mine are 100% mechanically injected so taking the battery out of circuit don't impose any issues.

I typically get about 4-5 years out of a battery and then they get replaced when my tester shows a significant drop in cranking amperage. Starting batteroes in tractors get bounced around a lot compared to cars as there is no suspension on a tractor to absorb the shock loads and batteries in general don't cotton to getting bounced around.

Addfitionally, I ALWAYS buy my batteries from an outlet that has a high turnover in batteries as well. Get mine from the local Freightliner dealer because I know they turn them over quickly and I never buy any battery with dust on the top of it, a sure sign it has been sitting a while and once any flooded cell or AGM battery has had electrolyte added, it's on it's way to failure.