FELLING TREE

[TheIglu]

Excuse my ignorance, but why do we start the backcut above the hingepoint? (as in, where the two cuts meet)

I just started felling trees in my yard and would take the backcut on the same plane as the hingepoint. If I was doing something wrong, I'd like to know why before I started on the big boys next week.

 

[Treemonkey1000]

The tree should start leaning forward towards your face cut notch if you do it right. If you cut below the level of the notch the chances are very good the tree will lean backwards and pinch your saw..

 

[vic4news]

Excuse my ignorance, but why do we start the backcut above the hingepoint? (as in, where the two cuts meet)

I just started felling trees in my yard and would take the backcut on the same plane as the hingepoint. If I was doing something wrong, I'd like to know why before I started on the big boys next week.

The hinge needs to be about an inch thick on large trees. If you start the backcut even with the hingepoint there isn't enough wood to actually make a hinge.

Vic

 

[DCJL]

The front cut should not be an equal "V", but a flat horizontal cut on the bottom with the top cut coming down to meet the bottom cut about 2/3 of the way through the tree. The felling (back) cut then goes horizontal an inch or so above the apex of the front cut. All of this creates a major force (hinge) in the tree to fall in the desired direction. The further you cut the front cut into the tree the more force you put on the tree to fall in the desired direction. Just be sure that the front cut is not so deep that it starts the tree falling before even doing the back cut. The felling cut HAS to be above the apex of the front cut to get the laws of physics and gravity working for you.

 

[Spider]

The hinge is very important as it controls the desent of the tree. If it is too thin then it is likely to snap. Also it is important to ensure that felling cut is parallel to the 'V'. If it isn't the tree will try to twist in the direction of the thickest part of the hinge.

 

[Diesel-ME]

.... it is important to ensure that felling cut is parallel to the 'V'. If it isn't the tree will try to twist in the direction of the thickest part of the hinge.

...which is a great way for the more experienced fellers to make a tree fall in a slightly different place than it may otherwise want to.

~paul

 

[arrow]

A poster here advises the V notch to be cut 2/3rd into the tree if I'm reading that correctly. In order to control the rate of fall and to be sure enough wood remains to hold up the tree while making the back cut, I'd advise to make the notch no more then 1/3 thru the tree. This also gives you an opportunity and room to stick in a wedge in back of where the chainsaw is in the tree to ensure the tree doesn't fall opposite your intended fall line. I also notch the tree with the horizontal part at the top rather than the angle at the top. (Make the horizontal then bring the saw up into the horizontal starting the angle cut below the horizontal as opposed to above it) What this does is give you a visual line to start the felling cut above the notch down toward the angle cut of the notch as if you are making a straight diagonal line right thru the tree. Makes for more accuracy for the felling cut to reduce chances of this cut going below the notch which sometimes causes quite the ruckess. Also, some guys like to make the felling cut horizontally and because the notch is angled down, there remains more leeway even if if the felling cut once again goes below the horizontal cut of the notch.

 

[scuvnut]

A few things to emphasize (some posted, maybe one or two not posted)

1. Wear a hardhat

2. Be very careful the tree does not get hung up in another tree - it can be a difficult situation that is not so easily remedied.

3. Take a good look to be sure there is not a significant amount of vines that attach one tree to another. This can create a very dangerous situation as the tree can spin and fall in an unwanted direction.

4. Very important - always map out multiple escape routes and be sure the ground is clear so you don't trip on anything if an emergency situation results.

5. Never cut these down by yourself - accidents happen to even the most experienced tree cutters and someone should be able to assist or call for help if an emergency develops.

Just cut down 4 50+ foot cedars today so all of this was on the tip of my brain!

 

[Treemonkey1000]

Scuvnut and the previous poster had great points. Don't cut 2/3 of the way into the tree. Chances are if it isn't weighted towards the notch it will fall backwards as you have cut away so much of the trunk. This doesn't give you much back cut to work with and steer the tree with the hinge wood. Pounding wedges in is also some good insurance.
So is this tree on the ground yet? I didn't back track through all of the postings to see if it had hit the ground for the original poster.

 

[DCJL]

My bad, reread the OP and saw it is an 18" tree we're talking about, so....

I agree. if it is large enough to pound in wedges behind the saw then going 1/2 way in and using wedges is the most accurate felling method. But if the tree is not large enough to fit in wedges then going further into it on the front cut give better leverage to the hinge to fall in the desired direction. Also by cutting only 1/2 way in there is more room on the back cut to fit wedges. With an 18" maple there is plenty of room for wedging it.