Fence Rail Splitter

[3 Sisters Ranch]

Curious if anyone on the board has built or used a fence rail splitter and experienced splitting rails (Really not into mauls and wedges just yet). Kicking around a few ideas but possible someone's prior experience could prove invaluable. Looking at splitting 12-14" western red cedar, 12' long will get me the rail length needed for a 10 foot on center post spacing when considering the tapering on the rail ends and possible a touch of trim to length if needed. The 12-14" dia. log should give me the rail girth I think I want. Also putting a 4 way head on the splitter can yield me 4 rails per push.
Seems like modifying a larger size log splitter into a "extended" bed could do the job. Since western red cedar is generally pretty straight grain and splits fiarly consistent thinking a 24-48" push into the 4 way head should get me close.

Thoughs/suggestions/ideas

Thanks
Mike

 

[forgeblast]

If your going to do it by hand look at riving tools. A riving break (looks like an a-frame) will be helpful. I know you want it by machine, what about (in my head I am picturing a truck bed extender that would hold the end of the log) welding on a hitch and then using a bed extender with a plate to hold the log Like a long L (but laying down)

 

[3 Sisters Ranch]

If your going to do it by hand look at riving tools. A riving break (looks like an a-frame) will be helpful. I know you want it by machine, what about (in my head I am picturing a truck bed extender that would hold the end of the log) welding on a hitch and then using a bed extender with a plate to hold the log Like a long L (but laying down)

Forgeblast - took a look at riving tools, find the idea interesting but... Looking at the volume. 2000 linear feet of fencing puts me at 900 plus rails, then posts. Thus my reasoning for mechanizing the process.
My current thought is a 6-8" channel laying on the web, thus using the flanges as an anti-roll feature, mount a 2 way cylinder to push into a 4 way splitting head, thinking I'd use the hydraulic remotes from the 1635 MF will give me the push I need. This is a project for my own property and not a commercial endeavor. So once I'm done, I'm done.
Figured if I get larger/smaller logs I can shim the log or adjust the cylinder and splitting head accordingly.

Mike

 

[forgeblast]

900+ rails but if you get four from a log your looking at 225 logs thats is still a lot of work. You have to figure too that not all will split true especially with a machine, it may force run outs. You may find that the machine will use a lot more material.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NfQ43CFF3TA is a commercial machine
http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=49698.0 another discussion on the rails.

 

[ENC]

What are you going to do when the 48" push doesn't get a "good enough" split. I understand you can't practically have a longer cylinder. I am envisioning something with cables and a winch drum to pull the logs through. All the way if necessary. A way to pull it back to start position would also be nice so you don't have to manually like pulling out a winch cable.

 

[Ed of all trades]

I saw something about a guy in West Virginia? that built a fence post splitter for 9' locust post. He used a 4 x 24 cylinder and a long wide wedge. It worked well and had no problem with run out even on very twisted logs. The only problem he had was a dog peed on the wedge just before he welded it and it about made him sick.

 

[Taylortractornut]

I made one about 10years ago out of a cylinder from a rolloff truck. I made a frame like a regular splitter about 10 feet long. Made a bolt on head for it. I made it for a fence builder. He also would lay a bunch of rounds on with and split them all at once

 

[Rustyiron]

Maybe a band mill is in order. I'd rather have it around for other projects after you get your fence done than a 10' log splitter. It might also squeak 6 rails out of a log. It would sure make cutting the taper (with some type of "jig") easier also. Just thinking'.

 

[3 Sisters Ranch]

Maybe a band mill is in order. I'd rather have it around for other projects after you get your fence done than a 10' log splitter. It might also squeak 6 rails out of a log. It would sure make cutting the taper (with some type of "jig") easier also. Just thinking'.

Thx's Rusty Iron - I considered some type of mill initially. but initial cost and if the property was still standing timber I might consider a mill as an option, since the property has been 80 - 85% logged I nixed that thought. I really have no intention of standing up a milling operation. I also hate reselling, maybe $$ in it but I've never had much luck. Yup tapers become another process to be tamed - I've been kicking around the idea of fabricating a dual arbor "chop" saw with the arbors built on an angle to cut the tapers on one end with one cut. Also cutting with a small chain saw is a more simple but less accurate option, besides wife likes the more rustic fence look. Now I have hand split a few truck loads of wester red cedar for fire wood as it was free and found it split quite straight and with ease provided the block was from a good section of log. Laying a 10-14" dia X 12 ft stick on it's side and pushing I think is very doable.

I've also considered getting the splitter at a good working height (24" ?? off ground) and building simple log decks one deck on the log side of the splitter and one deck on the rail side. Roll a log onto the splitter bed, split and move the rails over onto a rail deck. Could load and unload both decks with small FEL w/forks.

For those TBN'ers who have responded I've been searching you tube also. I did see a French Manufacturer I think is called MechPerf who manufacturers a massive and I mean massive 4/6/8 way splitter pushing large logs 20-30" dia X 8-12' long. I just need to tone a monster like that down a bit for my simple needs.

 

[3 Sisters Ranch]

What are you going to do when the 48" push doesn't get a "good enough" split. I understand you can't practically have a longer cylinder. I am envisioning something with cables and a winch drum to pull the logs through. All the way if necessary. A way to pull it back to start position would also be nice so you don't have to manually like pulling out a winch cable.

ENC - what I was thinking is push what I have, retract, drop a 2/3/or 4' 6x6" or 8x8" block which would be built on a hinge or swing mechanism and push again.