Fencing my property

[Michael In Tennessee]

What I know about fencing is that I don't know about fencing.

I have 24 rural acres in east Tennessee subdivided 25 years ago off a larger parcel. Its two adjoining parcels. I would like to fence the property so that in the future I can have a few animals. Probably just a cow or two. The wife wants goats, but as pets. I don't need pets.

I'd also like to assure the two legged animals are properly restrained.

Most of the perimeter is wooded. Along one side and the back are well aged barbwire fencing that may or may not be on the property line. It is not in good enough condition to save. Those two sides are wooded the side is mostly small trees. The back has some trees approaching 2' diameter that are on the property line. The second side is lightly treed with a few medium trees likely on the property line. The front is half lawn, half useless brush of no consequence. I'd likely not fence the front lawn and fence off the back of the property behind the house for animals.

I would need to get a new survey to verify property lines. The property is also a bit hilly and I cannot see from corner to corner. I would need intermediate stakes to get good sight lines.

Questions I do know...

fence line etiquette: When encountering trees on the property line, how do you fence around them to avoid neighborly disputes while making sure your neighbor knows where the line really is? Mechanically, how do you fence around such trees? Jog the fence? Stop the fence short and restart on the other side and fill in with untensioned fencing?

What type of fence? I do not plan on horses or the like. The Grandson wants alpacas, but he ain't getting any. Do I want a woven fence? high tension wire? Barbed wire? I'd like the fence to be cost effective and low maintenance.

What do I not yet know?

I have a tractor (obviously) and I think I want a hydraulic post hole digger. We have rocky soil. I might consider a post pounder, but they are not as versatile as as PHD.

My current thought is a 4 or 5 wire high tension fence. Heavy wood corner posts, properly braced. Medium sized wood post every 100 ft or as needed due to hills. T-posts between as needed.

 

[fishdrivel]

Knotted field wire. Shop around! wide range of prices.
Knotted is best. Welded rusts at the joints and fails.
Usually, 330 ft rolls but I have seen in 1000 ft rolls.
330 is enough for 1 man to handle.

https://www.plumbersstock.com/keystone-wire-70207.html?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&scid=scbplp611584&sc_intid=611584

 

[RUSTBUCKET BRONCO]

I was in a similar boat. I talked to my neighbor about trees on the property line and we both decided all should come down. I had an existing fence line I had to pull out first (actually 3 built on top of each other) After cutting the trees in the way and clearing the old fences I went with 5 strand hi-tensile fence. I found some fairly new telephone polls that were used for dock pilings for a year then removed. Those are the corner posts, as for the intermediate fence post I used mostly T posts then every 15-20 I would sink another wood post. I have goats on my side of the fence and they stay in the electric fence just fine. They do need a training area first, to show them not to mess with the fence.

 

[Oaktree]

fence line etiquette: When encountering trees on the property line, how do you fence around them to avoid neighborly disputes while making sure your neighbor knows where the line really is? Mechanically, how do you fence around such trees? Jog the fence? Stop the fence short and restart on the other side and fill in with untensioned fencing?

Looks to me like you're asking 2 different questions. As far as fencing cows, goats, etc. there's no need to go into the woods...just put the fence around the perimeter you want the animals to stay inside of.
Property line in the woods, I'd just go with flagging. If you need more than that to delineate your property it's time for a talk with the neighbor(s).

 

[bcp]

^^^^^^^^

It's handy to have your fence inside the lines so you could drive around on the outside for maintenance, etc. Check on the animals and fence without having to go inside. You can pick a line that avoids trees and boulders, instead of a boundary fence that runs into them.

Mark the property line with an occasional T-post.

Bruce

 

[rgr33]

Too late for me now, but I really wish I had set my fence line in about 5-6 ft off boundary. I paid a lot for my property, and wanted to use every available inch of it at the time.

now, I feel I have to clear it with neighbor in order to work on the other side

 

[9973720wb19]

Stop the fence short and restart on the other side and fill in with untensioned fencing?

this is what I'd do...kinda shows his trees (or whatever) is on the line and now part of your fence... I'd also casually let the neighbor know your putting up a fence the the reasons...that it's not about him...your needs have changed.

 

[ChuckT]

One - you're gonna have neighbors whether you like them or not.
Two - you want them to respect your property as much as you do theirs.
Three - clearing enough to allow you to maintain the fence is cheapest NOW and EXPENSIVE later.
Last if you make an agreement with your current neighbors you should NOT assume a new neighbor will agree.
So, from experience, establish the actual property line(s) clear cut - now - a narrow road width into your property taking down all trees and brush. If the trees are big enough you might be able to sell them to a local logger and split the $ with neighbors.
Better be prepared for push back. And if a neighbor is an out-of-town land ownership it'll take some time so DOCUMENT everything. Don't succumb to the noble "gentlemen's agreement" aka suicide.

 

[ChuckT]

One last thing - don't let yourself get trapped into some emotional feud/spitting match, life's too short to be a child longer than needful.

 

[LouNY]

A high tensile fence with tension ratches will bounce back from tree limbs and such,
A barbed wire fence will break.
A page wire or woven wire fence will be a mess.
A line fence can be constructed on the property line,
a fence for keeping livestock in an wanders out can be inside the line a bit as long as all property owners are aware of the actual line.
Myself I would prefer to keep my roadway on the inside of the fence, otherwise it needs to be set back far enough to allow very
vehicle and tractor and mower operation around the fence.

 

[NorTracNY]

I'd definitely agree with others on not putting the fence on the line. Allow yourself room to drive around the fence. You want to clear all trees on both sides of the fence. If you put your fence on the line, then what will you do in 10-15 years when lots of branches from your neighbors are falling on your fence?

 

[EddieWalker]

When my neighbor bought his land, one of the first things he did was clear his side of the land on two sides and have a fence installed. It was 5 strands of barb wire. He was in a hurry to do this and in hindsight, it was a big mistake for him to move so quickly. On our line, the fence is doing fine, but where he fenced around the rest of his place, he did not clear the land and just ran it through openings that where already there. Every winter, the trees drop branches on his fence and destroy it. I've been on his place in the spring and seen close to a dozen areas where branches, or even entire trees, where laying on the fence.

We have a third line that was thick jungle. Since his fence has been so much work to constantly repair, he said that I could take out as many trees on his side of the fence as I wanted to. The more, the better. I'm working on taking everything out on both sides for at least 30 feet, with 50 being ideal. With no trees on his side, he will mow it with his batwing mower and keep it clear. He already does this on the other two lines, so it's more than worth the time and effort for me to do this.

The other mistake he made was guessing where the property line was. He went off of some landmarks, but got it wrong. Last year we had the corners marked by a surveyor now that enough trees are out of the way for them to work. At one end he was about 20 feet inside his property, at the other corner, he is closer to 50 feet inside his property. I haven't done the math, but the line is close to 1,400 feet long.

I have Dwarf Nigerian goats. As of today, I have 22 of them. Three girls are read to deliver any day, so I'll have more pretty soon. Early on, I made the mistake of installing field fence because it was cheap. My goats have horns and there is always that one who gets its head stuck in the fence. They can get there head through the wires, but the horns stop them from getting back out. It's a pain to get their horns lined up so they can get free. I'm sure that I'm going to hurt myself one of the days doing this. The only place that I did this was around my barn. I've been putting chicken wire over the fence to stop it from happening, but my baby goats are finding spots where I didn't overlap it good enough, and they are making the opening wide enough to get through. A six week old baby goat will go through the field fence like its not even there. In my case, they eat all the chicken food, which means my chickens are hungry and not laying eggs. If I used field fence around my land, I would not be able to know if one of them had gotten stuck in the fence before it died. I would not know if a baby had gotten through the fence and wandered off, or was eaten by a coyote.

Goat fence is 3x3 and more expensive than field fence. Horse fence is 2x4 and the most expensive option, but in my opinion, it's the best because it keeps any type of animal that you might have in, and keeps predators and wild hogs out. I'm installing 2x4 no climb horse fence on my place.

 

[jyoutz]

Knotted field wire. Shop around! wide range of prices.
Knotted is best. Welded rusts at the joints and fails.
Usually, 330 ft rolls but I have seen in 1000 ft rolls.
330 is enough for 1 man to handle.

https://www.plumbersstock.com/keystone-wire-70207.html?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&scid=scbplp611584&sc_intid=611584

View attachment 735421

Agree. This is the most durable, useful, and cost effective fencing. I used this in 5’ height for my 20 acres.

 

[jyoutz]

When my neighbor bought his land, one of the first things he did was clear his side of the land on two sides and have a fence installed. It was 5 strands of barb wire. He was in a hurry to do this and in hindsight, it was a big mistake for him to move so quickly. On our line, the fence is doing fine, but where he fenced around the rest of his place, he did not clear the land and just ran it through openings that where already there. Every winter, the trees drop branches on his fence and destroy it. I've been on his place in the spring and seen close to a dozen areas where branches, or even entire trees, where laying on the fence.

We have a third line that was thick jungle. Since his fence has been so much work to constantly repair, he said that I could take out as many trees on his side of the fence as I wanted to. The more, the better. I'm working on taking everything out on both sides for at least 30 feet, with 50 being ideal. With no trees on his side, he will mow it with his batwing mower and keep it clear. He already does this on the other two lines, so it's more than worth the time and effort for me to do this.

The other mistake he made was guessing where the property line was. He went off of some landmarks, but got it wrong. Last year we had the corners marked by a surveyor now that enough trees are out of the way for them to work. At one end he was about 20 feet inside his property, at the other corner, he is closer to 50 feet inside his property. I haven't done the math, but the line is close to 1,400 feet long.

I have Dwarf Nigerian goats. As of today, I have 22 of them. Three girls are read to deliver any day, so I'll have more pretty soon. Early on, I made the mistake of installing field fence because it was cheap. My goats have horns and there is always that one who gets its head stuck in the fence. They can get there head through the wires, but the horns stop them from getting back out. It's a pain to get their horns lined up so they can get free. I'm sure that I'm going to hurt myself one of the days doing this. The only place that I did this was around my barn. I've been putting chicken wire over the fence to stop it from happening, but my baby goats are finding spots where I didn't overlap it good enough, and they are making the opening wide enough to get through. A six week old baby goat will go through the field fence like its not even there. In my case, they eat all the chicken food, which means my chickens are hungry and not laying eggs. If I used field fence around my land, I would not be able to know if one of them had gotten stuck in the fence before it died. I would not know if a baby had gotten through the fence and wandered off, or was eaten by a coyote.

Goat fence is 3x3 and more expensive than field fence. Horse fence is 2x4 and the most expensive option, but in my opinion, it's the best because it keeps any type of animal that you might have in, and keeps predators and wild hogs out. I'm installing 2x4 no climb horse fence on my place.

I have that fence on my horse/steer pen, but it’s way too expensive for fencing acreage.

 

[oosik]

Give you an idea. I have 80 acres. Perfect rectangle. 1320 x 2640. Mile and a half perimeter. I installed a barbed wire fence. 650 T - 145 steel posts. 24 rolls of barbed wire. Each roll is 1320 feet.

I used a home made post pounder. 4" well casing with large steel blob welded on top. I had no help doing this. Laid out the wire with my tractor. Pipe with spacers on the 3-point. Stretched with a handy man jack.

Fortunately - that was done 40 years ago when I was much younger. At my current age and knowing the difficulties - I wouldn't even attempt this project now.

I had just finished building our Pan Abode cedar home and was tough as nails. The barbed wire I bought is called Ever Sharp. It didn't take long to see why I got it all at such a good price. I still have scars on my arms, hands and lower legs. Forty years and the barbs are still sharp as razors.

With annual maintenance the fence is still as straight, strong & tight as ever.

 

[Ken45101]

Too late for me now, but I really wish I had set my fence line in about 5-6 ft off boundary. I paid a lot for my property, and wanted to use every available inch of it at the time.

now, I feel I have to clear it with neighbor in order to work on the other side

Have you checked your state farm fence laws (if any)? Ohio gives property owners the right to access the other side of the fence (within 5 feet) for maintenance. Likewise that 5 feet is supposed to be kept clear of brush.

Other states will vary, of course.

Ken

 

[Ken45101]

Before putting up farm fence near the property line, check to see if your state has any farm fence laws. Your local extension agent or soil and water conservation office may be able to provide guidance.

Ohio requires "field fence" woven wire, which may have a strand of barb wire above it, unless the two property owners agree otherwise in writing., Likewise, if both properties have farm animals, the cost must be shared.

 

[oosik]

Half of my fence line was built by my access to the neighbors( two of them ) side of the line. Access would have been next to impossible from my side. My NE corner is tied into a gigantic Ponderosa pine. Vertical 2x4's get the fence around the pine. That way the wire does not grow into the pine and become embedded. This pine is close enough to the actual corner that everybody concerned is happy.

My annual maintenance is alway done by my driving down the fence line while on the neighbors property. The cows don't seem to mind one bit. THAT IS the neighbors biggest concern. Don't irritate his cows.

I have received the approval from both. One person - on an ATV - is the very least of their concerns.

I don't want to live where I would have to worry about "inches on the fence line". Nor would I want to be restricted to a five foot border. The neighbors cows have access to my little lake for drinking and graze about 60 of my acres to keep the weeds/grass chomped down. Wildfire control.

 

[idaho2]

I have 35 acres and my son has 60 acres. Combined we have 12 land neighbors for the 95 acres. One of my sons 6 neighbors has a high tension wire, tree blow downs took care of that expensive wire last year and not sure this winter damage yet. Four other neighbors have dilapidated fencing if any at all. His southern neighbor has 4 strands of barbed wire for seasonal horses! My one southern land neighbor no fencing, the other adjacent is a year round pond making up that part of the property line. My neighbors to the SE - no fence, the other eastern one has livestock and a nice straight solid fence. With this neighbor fence I planted a tree line 20' from the fence as this is right on the property line. Here is where hay is cut and baled and eventually over time my neighbor will have wind break. The last one along the easement has no fence just the road. But with or without fencing all 95 acres 4 corners are marked and surveyed and easily found and seen.

Idaho2

 

[Dragonpharm]

I have used the 2x4 no climb fencing with good results. Last year we installed a lot of fencing because we got horses and donkeys. Went with Finishline fencing. Very happy with it. https://finishlinefence.com/
When limbs fall on it you remove them and the fence goes right back in place. I used a combination of Timeless PVC t posts and wooden posts. Makes running the hot wire super easy. Also no worries about livestock getting hurt on metal posts. Admittedly more of a concern just for equines. Horses will hurt themselves on anything.