Fencing - wire and install
- Thread starter jpav
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two_bit_score
Super Star Member
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I'm sure you already know this but it is always worth repeating - cheap fencing is not always a bargain.
Have you looked at stay-tuff?
Have you looked at stay-tuff?
whistlepig
Elite Member
Red Brand "No Climb" is nice fence. I thought it a bit of overkill when my wife wanted to re-fence the horse pastures with the "No Climb". Once I started laying it up and stretching it I could see why people pay the extra money for it. It's just better fence. I don't try to save money on fence or poles. It's too much work and time not to be done right. I have always used Red Brand fence.
Thanks for the continued comments.
This fence is to match what we have along the horse side. There is a top and bottom 2x6 rail, to keep horses from leaning down on the top, and from digging under/kicking out the bottom (also keeps the dogs, pigs, goats, etc from trying to wiggle under the fence.
There are currently 3 areas that have this setup existing. One has a 4x4 top rail so it is flush with the posts, and the fence is attached to posts and those rails. One has the same setup, with a 2x6 covering up that attachment, so you don't see the top staples (it appears the fence is floating behind or attached to the back side of this top rail). And another has the rails attached to the face of the posts, so the top and bottom are 1.5" further out than the posts.
I'm going to put it up on the posts, then cover with 2x6 kinda like the 2nd one mentioned above, without the extra wood. So wire will be sandwitched between post and rails.
Advantage I see to what is up, is the fence doesn't have to be pulled as tight, so there is less stress on the posts.
I've just about finished my 'unroller'. Screwed a few 2x6 pieces together, on a couple of 'skid' type rails. Cut a hole for a 2x4 to go in through the bottom. Top and bottom support braces will hold a back piece. This will provide a clamping action to keep in on the pallet forks. Not going to pull with this, but will allow me to unroll a 250lb hunk of wire easier, and it'll hold upright for me. Rain started on me yesterday, so I'll get going on it again in a day or two. Will try and remember to get some picts up here too.
This fence is to match what we have along the horse side. There is a top and bottom 2x6 rail, to keep horses from leaning down on the top, and from digging under/kicking out the bottom (also keeps the dogs, pigs, goats, etc from trying to wiggle under the fence.
There are currently 3 areas that have this setup existing. One has a 4x4 top rail so it is flush with the posts, and the fence is attached to posts and those rails. One has the same setup, with a 2x6 covering up that attachment, so you don't see the top staples (it appears the fence is floating behind or attached to the back side of this top rail). And another has the rails attached to the face of the posts, so the top and bottom are 1.5" further out than the posts.
I'm going to put it up on the posts, then cover with 2x6 kinda like the 2nd one mentioned above, without the extra wood. So wire will be sandwitched between post and rails.
Advantage I see to what is up, is the fence doesn't have to be pulled as tight, so there is less stress on the posts.
I've just about finished my 'unroller'. Screwed a few 2x6 pieces together, on a couple of 'skid' type rails. Cut a hole for a 2x4 to go in through the bottom. Top and bottom support braces will hold a back piece. This will provide a clamping action to keep in on the pallet forks. Not going to pull with this, but will allow me to unroll a 250lb hunk of wire easier, and it'll hold upright for me. Rain started on me yesterday, so I'll get going on it again in a day or two. Will try and remember to get some picts up here too.
