Ferris IS2100z no power to left wheel

[Notforhire]

I was doing my weekly mow yesterday when I went to reverse direction the drive to the left wheel quit. It felt like something was binding. When I moved the left side control lever the engine would load up but the wheel wouldn't turn. After checking for an obstruction underneath the machine I tried to power the wheel again. This time it worked and I drove the machine about 30 yards to the barn and parked it.
First thing I checked was the hydro oil level which was OK. Then I noticed all the cooling fan blades were missing! Since I blow out the grass clippings from that area after every use, I'm guessing that a stick must have wiped out the blades within an hour of my discovery.
Is it possible that the drive unit got hot and that's what caused it to act up?
I checked the clock and I'm overdue on the first hydro oil /filter change. I have 160hrs and the service was due at 100 hrs.
I ordered new filters and 15w50 Mobil 1 along with a new fan.
Any ideas?

 

[oldnslo]

Does that mower have chain drive to wheels? If yes is chain lose or possibly a stick got caught in the chain.

Other option would be did something get in brake linkage for that side?

 

[Notforhire]

The machine is driven by two Hydro Gear ZT transmissions ZT-4400™ - Hydro-Gear.
Everything is self contained, one unit for each drive wheel.
I haven't gotten a chance to look into how the parking brake arrangement works.
The only thing wrong that I could find is the broken/missing fan blades.
For a machine that is designed to run all day long in summer heat, I would be surprised if it would overheat after one hour (max) in 75 deg. weather.

I was unable to look at it today, but tomorrow I can lift it up and really look things over.

 

[RjCorazza]

I think you're on the right track. Unlikely that it's a coincidence that the fan is gone and the pump is acting up.
My Kubota ZD's run all day long without issue, but are very sensitive to low fluid. As little as 2 qts low (12.8 total) after a fluid change will cause the transmission to act up.
Post an update with your results, and good luck!

 

[Carl_NH]

My IS2000 has a central oil tank and filter with separate Hydrogear pumps (with fans) and Parker wheel motors. Does yours have the central oil reservoir and share oil between them - is so one fan should cool enough for both. If each is separate yes, it could have gotten hot. I would pull the filter and change the oil and see what you find - hopefully no metal bits!

Since I tow a Trac Vac with mine and the bigger machines Ferris makes they put a hydro cooler on them I retrofitted a transmission cooler above the engine, as my oil was smelling burnt at 50 hours and was running around 200-210* and after I installed the cooler it stayed around 170-180 even at 80* outside and towing the trac vac.

 

[Notforhire]

Each pump/motor has it's own tank. Both are at the full mark(cold). I've included photos of the cooling fan with and without blades.
My old (18 y.o.) 1000z Ferris is a different design with separate drive components. No grass clippings accumulate in the drive area.
The newer model has to be cleared of debris after every use. Why, I don't know.

 

[oldnslo]

On your initial post you state engine loaded up like something binding so possible but doubtful heat would cause that and then work a few minutes later after checking for obstruction. My experience with HST transmission is engine bogging down indicates they are trying to work and something mechanical is stopping them from turning.

How are the brakes released? Via the joystick or separate brake lever?

 

[Notforhire]

On your initial post you state engine loaded up like something binding so possible but doubtful heat would cause that and then work a few minutes later after checking for obstruction. My experience with HST transmission is engine bogging down indicates they are trying to work and something mechanical is stopping them from turning.

How are the brakes released? Via the joystick or separate brake lever?

Each drive wheel is independent of the other with the exception of the common drive belt that provides power to the pumps.
Each steering stick controls a swashplate that directs the oil. Reversing the direction of the swashplate reverses the flow of oil from the pump which reverses the direction of the drive motor. When the sticks are in the "neutral " position the oil is recirculated and not directed to the motor. (A hydraulic bypass is provided so the machine can be moved with the controls in the neutral position and the engine not running.)

I did check the bypass valve to see if it had somehow gotten knocked into the bypass position, best I can tell it had not.

There is a separate parking brake lever that controls a mechanical brake in each unit. The brakes aren't used in the normal operation of the machine, but are only applied when the machine is "parked".

What was interesting was that when I went to reverse the left motor it seemed like the pump was deadheaded and not like I had run up against something. I don't think the wheel was trying turn. Of course I don't really know what was happening internally, that's just how it felt.

 

[Carl_NH]

Hopefully it's something external/mechanical - like the broken fan blades jamming the linkage preventing movement. If the oil on that side looks clear, doesn't smell burnt that would be a good sign. The fact that it goes forward seems to point to mechanical issue - fingers crossed.

The hydro design behind the deck/under the seat is a natural grass gathering point and the way the belt is routed on the top of the pump allows a stick to get caught in the belt and take out the fan blades.

I have caught sticks in the deck/pump drive belts on mine, but they are under the frame driving the pumps from the bottom not on top - a better design IMO.

 

[skipmarcy]

Seems logical a piece of something (maybe a stick?) got to your fan blade so maybe it also caught on the brake linkage momentarily for that same drive and bound it up then got dislodged on it's own.