Here a local feed mill sells bulk fertilizer, that is in bins. They rent, or let guys use the spreaders, probably according to how much you buy. Being I only need 800 lbs. a year, to keep mine up to snuff, Barry let's me get it out of the bins, at bulk prices. So $75 bulk prices, vs. nearly $600 from a local co-op in bags is worth 30 minutes of shoveling. I spread mine with a cone spreader. EZ PZ to back the spreader up to the truck, and lower it, and pour into it. I use old plastic feed bags to haul the fertilizer. About 60 lbs. per bag. Beats shoveling into the spreader.
For Lime, I'm 40 miles from a quarry, and one load on my 1 ton dump is enough to cover my hay field. This application is normally good for 4-5 years. I bought a small fertilizer/lime spreader exactly like pictured below, about 20 years ago, for $250. I just use it to spread lime. Holds right at 1500 lbs. I pull it with one of the Farmall Super C's, it's just right for them. I dump it on the ground, and load the spreader with my little Bobcat. 2 years ago, I hand spread 4 tons of lime. The little spreaders hopper was just too bad of shape, to work. After slinging 4 tons of lime by hand, I decided it was worth rebuilding that winter. It's all rebuilt, and ready for the next time I need lime spread. Well worth the $250.00 worth of sheet steel, bearings, gear box, & paddle wheel to fix it back up. Soil tests just done, show I'm good for this year. Small spreaders like this are used on golf courses, so they should be relatively easy to find, if you know where to look. I saw one in about as poor of condition mine was before rebuilding sell at a farm auction about 18 months ago, for right at $400.00. If a person can do the work themselves, that's still a cheap spreader, in my book.
The extension agent here, and the guy I get fertilizer off of both told me & my buddy pelleted lime is good if you need it now, and why they call it quick lime. But, it is pretty much good for only one year. I can buy Ag lime at the quarry for around $9-$10 per ton, and I can spread it at my leisure, if the weather is right.
Here, they recommend fertilizing hay after first cutting. I learned the hard way one year when we had a wet Spring, like this one. I applied half the recommended amount in April. It rained until mid-June. Rye grass was as high as the fenders on the IH 656 row crop. Timothy that tall too, with 9" tops. And red clover was over 4' long. I say long, because it laid down, then started growing back up again. I had to mow in first gear, and at times, pull the TA back to go slow enough to get it through the old 990 MoCo. At times, the reel was literally pulling the Rye Grass out by the roots, before the cutter bar got to it. I had to ted it 4 times, to get it dry enough to roll up. I got 38, 580 lb. round bales off of 4.5 acres.
Last year, my extension agent gave me the amounts of N,P,K, removed from the soil, for every ton of hay harvested. It was in a phone conversation, and I didn't have anything to write it down on. I had him put it on a paper, to send along with my soil analysis, so I'd have something to reference to. On my ground, each ton of hay produced per acre, per cutting removes 13 lbs. of (P) Phosphorous, and 50 lbs. of (K) potassium/potash. The hay field tested low in P and K this year, and needs 100 lbs of P, and 120 lbs. of K on top of the amount listed above, when I see how much I get off first cutting. He, and the University of Kentucky where the soil samples were done, suggest 30 lbs. of N, to give it a little kick, to get going again for 2nd, and 3rd cutting. I'll spread half the amount after first cutting, then the other half, after second cutting.
