Final 3320 Questions before Purchase

[marklynn]

After lots of research (thanks TBN guys), I am about to buy a 3320. Here is what I'm ordering:

3320 eHydro, mid-PTO, R3 tires, Dual mid & single rear scv
300CX loader
72" JD boom blade w/ hydraulic angling
72" 7-iron mid mount mower
Frontier BB2072 Box Blade

I live on 10 mostly wooded acres with a 1600' slag driveway to care for and less than one acre of lawn. There are many landscaping projects in my future. We average 96" of snow per winter here in western Michigan so snow removal is also a priority. My deal is basically 10% off list on the tractor, 12% off on JD attachments, and Frontier attachments at dealer cost. The 10 and 12% were confirmed at two dealers in my area. Here are my questions:

(1) With less than 1 acre of lawn, the 72" deck seems like overkill for me, but the dealer thinks it's more appropriate to this machine. I am worried about it's performance in slightly hilly sections. Would the 60" deck fair better for me or is it too narrow for this tractor's width?

(2) The dealer thought a 6' box blade was also appropriate for this machine. Again, I thought a narrower 5' box might be better for maneuverability, especially if I frequently use it as ballast weight against the loader or boom blade. Any thoughts?

(3) The dealer claims to be giving me his cost on the Frontier box blade (BB2072) at $980. Does this sound right? He also quoted me $1890 on a Frontier RT1150 tiller when I was looking at a 2520. Does this sound like cost?

By the way, the dealer has provided an excellent experience so far, and has been very thorough and patient with my newbie questions. I'd post his quoted price, but I have changed my options so many times that I don't have an exact number yet - just an understanding of 10%, 12%, and cost on Frontier.

Thanks in advance!

 

[ddivinia]

Get the adjustable draft links - it makes it much easier to hook implements up. Rear work light too.

72" is a monster - you really might to consider the 60"

My BB2072 was $700.

D.

 

[jcmseven]

I would go with the 72" mid mount over the 60". The 60" is too small and looks really silly underneath one of these machines. Not that looks matter, though. The 72" fits nicely and will give you an edge for trimming. It follows ground contour well and will do a nice job. There is no such thing as overkill, Mark. With regard to the box blade, it depends on how well you want the machine to pull the blade. The 3320 will handle a 72" box blade, but not well unless terrain is flat and the soil is light and loose, which it never is. Go with the 60" here, it is better suited to the machine and will do a nicer job. Also, the larger BB does not really save much time for you, so it offers no real advantage I can see. I am not real familiar with the price on the box blade, but it seems a little high to me. My 1172 box blade on the 4520 I just sold was $999.00 retail. I got it for 785.00, plus tax. This was last November. Good luck with your tractor, it is a very slick machine. I am glad you went with the mid frame. They are much more machine, for a little more cash. Of course, I have not said that before.

John M

 

[rockyridgefarm]

What about the BB1065? It is 66" wide.

What is the outside dimension of R3s on the 3320?

How are they with pulling a boxblade?

 

[marklynn]

Thanks for the comments!

ddivinia: I forgot to mention that I am getting iMatch and will likely have all iMatch compatible implements. Therefore, I don't think the adjustable draft links are that important for me. I will probably add the rear work light however and will be reducing the box blade size.

jcmseven: I have decided to stick with the 72" mower. Everyone seems to be telling me that the 60" just looks wrong on this tractor. I am going smaller on the box blade, and I will check more on the price.

rockyridgefarm: A 66" box blade might be a good compromise. It seems like the dealer only stocks 60" or 72" which may affect the price. The R3's on the 3320 are 53" wide in the rear or 59" wide if you swap them. I am wondering if the 59" width might be more appropriate. The tractor looks skinny to me with turf tires on it. If memory serves, the R4's were 57 or 58" and swapping them only changed the width by 1". I'm told that the 3320 does a great job with the box blade. Salesman claimed that 72" was no problem.

 

[rockyridgefarm]

<font color="green"> 53" wide in the rear or 59" wide if you swap them. </font>

Now, isn't that center to center? So the overall width is higher? I am asking in case you are hoping that the blade will be wider than your tracks...

 

[marklynn]

I'm pretty sure that 53" and 59" are outside widths. Anybody care to confirm?

 

[ddivinia]

Get the adjustable draft links - you will end up with something that is not i-match compatible. I wish my 4720 had them...

D.

 

[jeepinator]

My 3520 has no problems with a 72" box blade. I can drag it down the driveway totally full of gravel and flowing over the back with no tire spin and very little lugging at 2000 RPM in B range.
In the rocky and still quite damp dirt I have around here I can fill it and drag impressive loads of dirt around, but ocasionally I get a bit of wheel spin and a few more RPM is required to keep it from stalling.
I'd not get anything smaller. Especially if driveway maintenance will be it's primary function.

 

[BloomingtonMike]

Make sure thay are adding the oil lines for the hydraulic blade to the 300CX.

I was quoted $2700 for a 60" RT1160 Frontier tiller today. Crazy talk. $1160 looks great at this point.

You will want a ton of rear ballast for the 72" blade with a bunch of snow. Get the 72" BB. Remove tines if needed if your soil is too much.

Draft arms will add a bunch of cash - Diverter valve is setup is $2K.

Get all the hydaulics you will need NOW. Might want to add Power Beyond now for only $200 and save on labor if needed later.

Get those lines on the 300CX - you need them for that front blade setup!!!