Grading final grading help needed

[s1120]

Well, I am not sure, but it looks like I may have to do some grading around my new house. The rough grading is done, but it needs to be final graded, raked, and seeded for lawn. Now I am thinking a landscape rake will probably do the job, but I may have one problem. The back part of the yard is over where they put the septic system. Will driving over the system with my 8N cause any problems to it? Some areas are a little soft, but the "builder"rough graded it with bigger stuff, I would think I would be fine with the little N, but figured I would run it past you guys.

Also, any tips for me with the landscape rake? I do not have one at this time, so I will either be buying one, or renting. What size would be good for an old 8N?

As far as seeding. I have been thinking of getting a PTO powered spreader for spreading fertilizer,[I have about 3 acres of lawn, that's a lot of walking with a hand spreader /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif] Are they any good at laying seed?

Thanks for any help. This is my first tractor, and wile I have been reading about all of your projects for the last 3 years, now that it time for me to do them myself, I am finding out that I still have a lot to learn. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[thcri]

s1120,

On three different occasions I have tilled up an area for seeding. These areas are larger areas and make it tough to do any watering on a normal basis. On all three areas I have tilled the soil, then used my Herdseeder M96 3 point to spread the seed. Then right after spreeding the seed I took an old drag and ran across it to bury the seed some. Now this works best in the later fall when your ground temperatures are still warm overnight but it's not hot during the day to burn any of the seed. The final step was to spreed a good fertilizer with a high nitrogen amount. This is on the top layer so the nitrogen can trickle down over the seed from moisture or rain. I also spread the seed higher amounts than recomended as you will also get new growth the following spring.

You can also rent a drill to pull behind your tractor to drill the seed in. My problem around here is not one of the rental places had one for rent. The landscape people are the only ones and they would not rent out, they wanted to plant and sell me the seed. Couldn't afford it.


murph

 

[Libertine]

s1120:

Your 8n should easily handle a 6' rake. Whatever size be sure it is wider than the tractor. The rake will not "grade" very well but if area is already "rough" graded should be ok (unless you're looking for a golf course).

You didn't specify the type of soil you have? Loamy, clay, or ?. If clay you will need to till in something to "cut" it (sand, peat moss, etc.).

Also, you really should roll it after seeded and preped to press seed to soil for better germination. Two 55 gal drums welded together, bolt some pipe flanges to the center of each end and add pieces to attach to the draw bar. Fill with water for weight (drain when done for easy handling).

Your 8n is a good tractor that could handle dozens of implements up to and including a pull behind combine harvester (See old ads for Dearborn implements - if you don't have those, send me a private message & I'll mail you a copy).

As thcri said, this is not best time of year to plant - of course, depends partly on rainfall in your area. 3 Acres a bit much for watering.

Take care.

JEH

 

[chim]

We have a little over two acres of grass. When we built, it was before I had a tractor - the 38" Ranch King didn't count. I acted as construction manager, hiring subs rather than having a single contract. The excavator's responsibilities ended with rough grading. I borrowed an old White tractor and chisel plow from Wifey's Dad to smooth things out a bit, then hired a farmer to disc it. Finally, I had a guy who was starting up a landscape business come in and seed the lawn. This approach was pretty cheap and worked out. As much as I enjoy seat time, I'd probably do it the same even owning tractors.

For spreading fertilizer, I picked up a tow-behind broadcast spreader at TSC or CT. For controlling the "on/off" I went to an auto parts store and got a hand throttle cable and rigged it for control from the seat. Worked fine until it was loaned out and came back broken............................chim

 

[Slamfire]

I'd rather have a grader blade than a landscape rake for grading. A three point doesn't work too well for this, much better to have one mounted ahead of the wheels on a towbehind arrangement. There are some carts used in horse drawn farming that will handle 3 point implements, but you'll have to look hard for one that'll do the job. The rake would do a good job of pulling out rocks, but you'd want some kind of drag for smoothing. I got a tounge of a house trailer that I drag on chains. But it overfills and dumps itself from time to time.

 

[higgy]

Here in a farming community you can rent centrifugal broadcasters for fertilizer from commercial suppliers. I rented one last week and put out 1400 lb of fert. The supplier make my NPK blend to order filled the broadcaster delivered and picked up the machine for a rental fee of $2.00 per acre.

Depending on your location and soil type, time of year and moisture levels the NPK ratio can change.

A good ag lab can run soil samples for you to determine the proper ratio for about $20.00.

Once you know the proper ratio for your area you can get nice results without guessing.

One thing to keep in mind is your micro nutrients. Here in Idaho we have basaltic soil which is basic, this ties up the iron, zinc and mag. When broadcasting fert. I put out sulfur which lowers the pH of the soil (make sulfuric acid with water, but not much) which frees up the metals. Here this leads to healthier plants as most of these metals are needed for plant growth. If you have an agricultural extension service in the area they should be able to tell you what type of soils you have.

Another good source of information for you local area is the National Resource Conservation Service (NRCS). Use the governmental assistance, you paid for it and generally speaking the people are professional and knowledgeable.

Just my 0.02.

 

[s1120]

<font color="red"> A three point doesn't work too well for this, much better to have one mounted ahead of the wheels on a towbehind arrangement. </font>

I don't know if I understand. Are you talking about something like the York rakes for small garden tractors that have to rear wheels, and a U shaped frame that goes over the rake, to a fixed hitch on the tractor? I had already decided that if I buy a rake, it WILL have gide wheels. I can not see how you can get a smooth, level, finnish on a 3ph without them.

As for smoothing, I was planing to make a drag out of a few old bed frames, and some steel I have laying around. I am thinking with a little added weight, it would work.

 

[Carl_NH]

s1120,

I would go with the 3PTH landscape rake with wheels, as I have a 6' grader blade and used this backwards to rough grade but for a smooth lawn and rock removal the landscape rake is best IMHO.

Your idea to drag bed springs with some weight is good but it may dig in where you don't want it too, so a 6' piece of chain link fence behind the rake would be good.

As to the septic, make sure there is at least 8-10" of soil on top and sides of the field, as this is the perennial brown out area due to all the sand. As to using a tractor on it I don't see a problem, but if you are sinking in a bit it may need more compaction near the edges. I presume you either have concrete chamber, or some rigid distribution system so this should not be a problem.

One other thing on compaction, don't run over the area a lot as it will compact the soil so grass will wash off rather than fill in. I learned the hard way since I used my cub cadet dragging a chain and a RR tie for my first lawn area, I had to go back and rototill the area again to loosen up the soil. Now I just rough grade it, go once over with a rake, then seed, then in the spring likely you will have some fill in areas where the soil has settled.

Hydro mulching is an option but IMO too expensive and I have had just as good of results with a good contractor seed mix and a mix of 10/10/10 and some high phosporus content for root growth. On seeding, all I have is a strap on hand spreader, and this can hold about 20LB of seed. Will take several hours to do this but is adequate. As stated before put it down heavier than recommended.

Trying to start a lawn in August can be difficult, and would be better in Sept, when evenings are cooler, but if you need to get it in then plan on watering to get it started.

Carl

 

[Slamfire]

Well every irregularity your tractor encounters either raises or lowers the implement on your 3 ph. If your grader blade mounts on a frame in front of the wheels that support it the bump is already changed when the wheels get to it.

 

[MLB]

THere is absolutely no improvement by seeding at a heavier than recommended rate. More is NOT better. Plants will be stunted if crowded too closely. Stunted top growth means shorter root system. Shorter root system means earlier dry out - read death of the plant.
Seeding recommendation rates have been coming DOWN that last few years.
I see a very large difference in a turf type tall fescue lawn being seeded at 7lbs per 1000 sq ' over the "normal" 10 lbs per. (with the 7lb being much thicker and less clumpy). Research at Purdue has them using 5.5lbs in some test plots.
If it isn't kept wet you could put down 20lbs per and it's still all going to die.
Seed is expensive.
Don't waste it.
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